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i 



With a Saucepan Over 
the Sea 

Quaint and Delicious Recipes from 

the Kitchens of Foreign 

Countries 



SELECTED AND COMPILED 

BY 

ADELAIDE KEEN 



WITH ILLUSTRATIONS 



Boston 
Little, Brown, and Company 

1902 



THF LISRARY OF 
COts>GRESS, 

Two Ccwiii Reosived 

OCT, (5 «y02; 

OOUVWOHT ENTBV 

Dl-ASa i^ XXo Mo. 
COI«Y 3. 



^^ 



(H 



Copyright, igo2y 
By Little, Brown, and Company. 



All rights reserved 
Published October, 1902 



UNIVERSITY PRESS • JOHN WILSON 
AND SON • CAMBRIDGE, U.S.A. 



Contents 



appetizing recipes. Potatoes as cooked by the Trappists, 
and in Italy and Flanders. Baked tomatoes in delectable 
Italian styles. Celery and cauliflower. Mushrooms, in 
French and Hungarian ways. Carrots as they should be. 
Eggplant in Provence, Naples, and Constantinople. Aus- 
trian, Greek, and Turkish cookery of cucumbers and 
squash. Onions in several wholesome styles. Cabbage 
above the average. Artichokes as they are cooked in 
Lyons. Various recipes for cooking rice. Rice in Anda- 
lusia and Toulouse — as cooked in the convent. Curries 
from Anglo-Indian sources. Burdwain and pilau. Maca- 
roni and spaghetti in real Italian excellence. Many recipes. 
Gnocchi and ravioli. Noodles. Fancy vegetable entrees. 
Sauer kraut. Salads of Normandy and Gascony ; from 
Nantes. Brussels sprouts as salad. Swedish and Russian 
salad. Salad from Norway and Austria. English chicken 
salad. Alexandre Dumas' s famous recipe. An exclusive 
salad. Another, even better. Salmagundi. A good 
German salad. Sandwiches, sweet or savory, from Scot- 
land, England, and France. 

CHAPTER FIVE 

Cakes, Puddings, and Pastry 157 

Richmond maids of honor and King Henry's shoe strings. 
A cake for a queen. Parsnip and Parkin cakes. Shrews- 
bury cakes and brandy snaps. Cakes of Scotland and the 
Isle of Man. Honey cakes of Basle. Almond cakes of 
Pithiviers. Norman and Westphalian cakes. " Gateau 
d'"epice'''' of the gingerbread fairs. Nuremberg ginger- 
bread, or spice cake. Delightful German cakes. Made- 
lienes. Napoleons, delicieuses, Savarins, and brioches. 
Two fine cakes of Marseilles. Greek, Roumanian, and 
vii 



Contents 

PAGE 
Russian cakes. German Xmas cake and English Twelfth 
Night cake. Hobelspane and spatzen, or sparrow cakes. 
All kinds of buns. Good Friday or hot cross buns. 
Yorkshire cakes and crumpets. Rice pudding in French 
fashions. Sabaglione and frangipane. Three famous old 
English puddings. A Swedish dessert. Prize plum pud- 
ding. Delicate desserts of French and German origin. A 
pudding of Buda-Pesth. Another of Italy, and Hungarian 
almond delight. Frumenty and Devonshire white-pot, in 
several ways. Syllabub, trifle, and roly-poly. Claret, as used 
in English and French desserts. A national dish of Norway. 
A convent sweet. Delicious creams from Bavaria. Swiss 
and German creams. Alpine baskets. Gooseberries, 
gages, and apricots in tempting shape. An ancient French 
dish. Apples in compote and casserole. A Roumanian 
sweet. Fascinating fancy omelettes. Gaufres. Wafers 
and waffles. Konglauff'e and imperial schmarn. Dainty 
pancakes of many sources. Fadges and fritters. Famous 
mi-careme fritters of Rome. French and Westphalian 
pastry. Epiphany cakes, or galettes. Fanchonettes and 
gimblettes. Cakes of Jersey, or wonders. Moravian love 
cakes. Banbury tarts. Tarts of all nations. Rheims 
biscuits. Profiterolles. Fruit pies. Rolls of Germany, 
Switzerland, France, and Austria. 



CHAPTER SIX 

Ices, Preserves, and Confections 212 

Ices of Italy, England, and France. Raisin pudding and 
praline. Judltha. A famous French marmalade. Se- 
crets of French jams of combined flavors. Damson cheese. 
Bar-le-Duc jelly or jam. Rare old English recipes for 
mixed or single fruit jams. Orange marmalade of Dundee, 
yiii 



Contents 

PAGE 

Rose jelly for pork and game. Almack's preserves. Tutti- 
frutti. Roseleaf jam of Greece, and Turkish delights. 
Nougat of Montellmert. Marrons glacees and maraschino 
bonbons. Barley sugar and apple sugar. Lozenges and 
marchpane. Italian candy. Vienna chocolate and Turk- 
ish coffee. 

CHAPTER SEVEN 

Hot and Cold Drinks 222 

Heidelberg punch and grandfather's nightcap. Lawn 
sleeve and brown Betty. Regent's punch and a punch 
for a king. Oxford grace cup and Oxford bishop. Eng- 
lish garden-party drinks. Caudle, wassail, and Xmas 
bowl. Sack posset and other ancient swallows. Sir 
Walter Raleigh's recipe. Ale flip, lamb's wool, and 
mulled wine. Drinks of dead celebrities. Picturesque 
May nectar and Teutonic mead. Capillaire of "the 
boulevardier." Orange and rhubarb and currant wines. 
English home-made champagne. An Irish cordial. Rec- 
ipes for fine and fancy French and German cordials. 
Violet vinegar and metheglin. Bitters for cocktails — an 
English recipe. 

POSTSCRIPT 

Hints and Secrets 239 

The advantages of studying foreign cookery books. In 
what ways each of the old countries excel. Norway and 
Sweden stand apart. The uses of seasonings in European 
kitchens. Simplicity of art the aim of the expert cook. 
Natural flavors in their purity. Evil effects of spices. 
Soup the great panacea : how to make it ; cheaply, 

ix 



Contents 

PAGE 

but good. Details of stock-making explained. What 
to do with " left-overs." New-old secrets for using them. 
Why the cook gets fat. Braising, the quintessence of 
exquisite cookery, yet old as the hills. How to have herbs 
close at hand and always fresh. Garlic in poetical phase. 
How "left-overs" of meat are used in foreign kitchens. 
More hints about stock. Hash incognito. The many 
ways of wasting food prevalent in American homes. 
What a plain cook should know. The accomplishments 
of a fancy one. The glazing of meats and pastry, how 
done. Concluding with many little hints for the eager 
amateur. 

Bills of Fare from Many Nations 249 

Index 255 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

Sweetbread Salad, Austria Frontispiece 

{See page 132.) 

Onion Soup with Cheese, Italy P^g^ 19 

Matelote of Fish in Casserole, Normandy . ..." 39 

Baked Sole, Normandy "43 

Leg of Mutton, Gascony "68 

Cannelons and Batons de Jakob, Marseilles ....'* 77 
{See also page i6y. ) 

Braised Sweetbreads, Dauphiny " 87 

Veal and Mushrooms, Germany "93 

Mock Rabbit, Germany " no 

Asparagus, as cooked in Spain "132 

Asparagus and Shrimp Salad, Germany " ''SS 

Bath Buns, England "171 

Compote of Apples, Cherbourg "189 



XI 



INTRODUCTION 

In the agreeable but arduous task of gathering 
these recipes, many of which are unknown to 
Americans of three generations, a great deal of 
history and romance have been sifted through. 
Lack of space prevents telling the story of each 
dish and its great days, how it came to exist and 
for whom. Kings and queens, brave and fair, 
have supped on these, or have gone to battle or 
execution, thus and so. Starving peasants, lend- 
ing glory to monarchy, through taxation and 
service, have invented certain soups and ragouts 
to eke out a sad and miserable life. Some dishes 
are peculiar to certain countries as a whole, their 
origin being obscure, although each was once 
known to a city or village or even a family, who 
kept it inviolate for centuries. Old housewives 
with manuscript books cherish recipes transmitted 
through generations but often brought from near-by 
provinces through intermarriage. 

It was not considered needful to include within 
this book recipes for Lyonnaise potatoes, Spanish 
bun, French crullers, Neapolitan ice-cream, Welsh 

xiii 



Introduction 



rarebit, etc. ; — almost any cook-book gives them. 
Nor is it necessary to offer recipes which are ex- 
travagant or unpalatable or requiring ingredients 
not procurable in this country. But many more 
might be included save for these reasons, so vast 
is the material. If the number of meats and vege- 
tables seem limited, remember that this is a land 
of plenty, and that poverty of purse and soil have 
forced Europeans to use what we consider miser- 
able fare, or else to cook the same thing, such as 
eggs, in a hundred different styles. Famine and 
siege and plague have schooled the European 
housewife to cook the poorest parts of animals, 
to use all weeds and wildflowers, not harmful, in 
salads and soups and entrees. 

Foreign cookery books are, as a rule, unsatis- 
factory, the English being painfully naive, and the 
French too indefinite or too extravagant as regards 
quantities. It is hoped, therefore, that this little 
volume will fill a place between. Our cooking has 
been usually, so far, too plain or too rich, insipid 
or spicy, without that delicate intelligent season- 
ing which foreign cookery economically represents. 
We have had, too, most of our servants from 
Ireland, the least creative of countries, who lived 
in huts, ate potatoes and oatmeal, and never saw 
any utensil but an iron kettle. 



Introduction 



The early colonists lived well, as many women 
interested in Revolutionary matters have discov- 
ered, because they brought over their own recipes 
and servants. In those parts settled by Catholics, 
— Louisiana, Maryland, Virginia, St. Louis, and 
Canada, — we find even better cooking to this day 
than those populated by English and Dutch Prot- 
estants, — New England, New York, and Penn- 
sylvania, — because centuries of fasting have taught 
the French, and Catholics generally, except the 
South Irish, how to utilize vegetables, eggs, and 
fish with appetizing sauces. We find delicious 
Spanish dishes, brought either direct, long ago, 
or by slaves from the West Indies. The Dutch 
and English are heavy feeders. They settled 
America with pies, puddings, and cakes, using lard 
and treacle, however, villanously, until French 
cooking began to be known after the Civil War, 
to those who were rich and idle enough to travel 
to other lands. The good cooking of the negroes, 
who are naturally epicures, has a foreign origin. 
Something of France has dropped into Spain and 
somehow fallen into Africa. 

But the American farmer, in healthful and truly 
economical living, — avoiding waste and doctors' 
bills, — is still far behind the European farmer, 
although he is better off financially. He is not 



Introduction 



rosy and fat, happy and gay. He takes patent 
medicines in increasing amounts, and eats indi- 
gestible fried food, pork and salt fish, and bread 
of white flour, robbed of almost every mineral 
required for growth. A grain of wheat, indeed, 
represents a little man. The farmer does not eat 
what he ought because his wife and daughters do 
not know how to make it attractive to sight and 
taste. The American artisan, in city slums, con- 
trasted with the foreign workman, is just as poorly 
fed, for ignorance of first principles is at the bottom 
of all sorrow and want, either spiritual or physical. 
Men drink because they have a sinking feehng ; 
good food satisfies that craving permanently. But 
many otherwise intelligent people are prejudiced 
against foreign dishes because they are rich or 
fancy. Fancy work in the kitchen pays better 
dividends than fancy work in the parlor, and butter 
and herbs are less injurious than pork fat and 
pepper. Bad cooking is at the root of many 
divorces, and divorces are more numerous here 
than abroad. If we ate freely of greens, in salads 
and fresh vegetables, all of which are cheaper here 
than in Europe, we should not need blood purifiers 
nor quinine ; fruit replaces liver pills, olive oil is 
more easily assimilated than cod liver oil, and 
strengthening soups are the best tonics. And it 

xvi 



Introduction 



may be said that false hair and false teeth are not 
seen nearly so much abroad as they are here, be- 
cause the people are better nourished. 

To any one fond of good cooking, it is fascinat- 
ing to see what Marie Stuart, Napoleon, Marie de 
Medici, Louis XIV., Henry of Navarre, or Joan 
of Arc, ate. For what we eat, we become ; and 
food forms faces, even as the prevalent fashions of 
thought or dress mould the features and character. 
Nothing is mean to those who can see all sides, 
and, as Francatelli said, " The palate is as capable 
and almost as worthy of cultivation as the eye and 
ear." Genius has generally been a gourmet^ if not a 
gourmand. 

American cooking suffers from American nerv- 
ousness, exactly as American nerves are suffering 
from American cookery. We are too hurried to 
eat properly, to enjoy what we eat as well as what 
we see and hear, except while travelling in Europe. 
Many people will recall certain dishes here given, 
having tasted them abroad. Others, transplanted 
families, may be glad to have recipes from th^ 
Fatherland, and from all lands searched for house- 
hold treasures, which are grouped beneath our flag 
to make America what she is, — the best combi- 
nation of the best traits. In tracing each recipe 
to its source, some interesting comparisons were 



Introduction 



found. Hagerstown pudding, which Southerners 
know and laugh at, is merely " nun's fritters " of 
French convents, but although a dish centuries 
old, the fried bread is served here with molasses 
and in Europe, it is first dipped in batter, then 
served with honey. Catholic gentlewomen intro- 
duced it as a relic of school-days. Again, scrapple 
is only the brawn of English winter fare and known 
wherever the English have settled. Terrapin was 
cooked to imitate turtle soup, and pork and beans 
was either a copy of pease porridge or else a recipe 
brought entire by slaves from Jamaica, who got it 
from Spain, where it still exists. But what do 
Americans — save those of French descent — know 
of braising, that delicious mode of rendering tough 
meat tender and succulent ? To many it is a rev- 
elation. It lies between baking and frying, and 
the closed saucepan or casserole used retains the 
nutritious fumes of the meat, which usually go off 
into thin air, utterly wasted. A young Gascon 
named Braise — Gascony has ever been a country 
of epicures — won a silver gridiron in a cooking 
contest, under Louis XIV., for introducing this 
new fashion in foods. Again, Paris first knew 
brioches — fine biscuits, made like our eclairs — 
when Marie Antoinette brought the formula from 
Vienna ; Austria has always been famous for cakes 



Introduction 



and rolls. When the starving mob raged for 
bread, the queen asked wonderingly, " Why don't 
you give them brioches? " Because, of course, she 
did not know the cost of things. Another delect- 
able Parisian sweet — Baba pudding — was intro- 
duced by King Stanislaus of Poland, on a visit, 
about 1725, who brought his own cooks in his train. 
In Poland it is still called " babka," meaning a 
little old woman, because it has a huddled look, 
like a poor old creature muffled in a shawl. In 
northern France, especially in the province of 
Normandy, baked fish is larded with strips of 
bacon, stuffed with a forcemeat of mushrooms, 
shrimps, and oysters ; and it is known that when 
Marie de Medici married the dauphin, son of 
Francis I., the young couple lived at the ancient 
castle of Chambord, where the Italian cooks, seek- 
ing variety, tried to serve the carp from the foun- 
tains for dinner ; these fish are very insipid and dry, 
and the foreign method of baking in stock with 
the above improved them. Italy thus gave 
France her first lesson in cookery, and the art was 
indigenous to this country since the luxurious days 
of pagan Rome. Charlotte Russe, the English 
will tell you, was a pudding invented for the 
wife of George III., but the French say that 
Chartres, an old town of the north, originated this 



Introduction 



form of chartreuse. And as for Avignon of Pro- 
vence, in the south, they insist that superlative cook- 
ing will always flourish there because it was for a 
long while the home of the Pope, and the angels 
taught the natives how to cook. Travellers will 
agree that southern France, with its bouillabaisse 
and cannelons and vol-au-vents, is bewitching, yet 
when they go to Normandy they find just as fine 
fare. A Parisian housekeeper prefers a Norman 
cook to any other, but again, all the poets and 
artists come from the southland and have been 
nourished on bouillabaisse. The Normans are as 
thrifty as the Quakers, yet the Quakers have made 
Philadelphia famous for feasting. The Proven9als 
are careless and gay like the Spanish and Italians, 
so near ; and here. New Orleans, combining French 
taste and Spanish ardor, claims good cooking as 
her birthright. If, however, a study of these 
recipes widens the horizon of any housewife, as 
eager and patient to excel as time and money 
permit, or any travellers find this book a guide 
for epicures, the work of compilation will not have 
been in vain. 

ADELAIDE KEEN. 



XX 



WITH A SAUCEPAN 
OVER THE SEA 

Chapter One — Sotcps 

COCKA LEEKIE. (Scotland.) 

This Is the oldest recipe for soup known, as it 
dates back to the fourteenth century. Wash and 
trim I dozen leeks, cut them in pieces half an Inch 
long, discarding roots and tops, then fry them in 
I ounce of butter, with 2 stalks of celery and i 
carrot, cut fine. When brown but not burnt, add 
I ^2 quarts of chicken broth and i cup of cooked 
chicken, cut into dice. Simmer, covered, 1 hours, 
then add salt, pepper, and yolk of an egg, blended 
with a little of the broth, first, before adding to 
the soup. 

PETITE MARMITE. 

This Is the national soup of France, and just 
now very fashionable In first-class restaurants. 
It Is always served In the earthen pot In which It 
Is cooked, set on a fancy plate. Each mouthful 
should convey a distinct taste of a separate vege- 
table. The marmites are sold at the crockery stores 
in the French quarter, but an ordinary earthen 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

Boston bean pot will answer equally well to serve 
it in. The stock can be first cooked in a large 
kettle, used for soups, every day. 

Cut up 6 pounds of beef and the shin bone, an 
old chicken, — which can be used for croquettes or 
salad, — 2 large carrots, 2 leeks, and 2 turnips. Add 
3 cloves, a bayleaf, some parsley, thyme, and sweet 
marjoram, i gallon of water. Bring it to a boil, 
skim it, and let it simmer 8 hours. Take off the 
fat, clarify it, and use it for frying or braising. Add 
salt and pepper sparingly, set it away overnight, 
after straining it. To i quart of this, heated in 
the earthen pot, add i cup of sliced carrots, tur- 
nips, or string beans, cut thin and cooked. Also 4 
slices of toasted bread or rolls. Using this recipe 
for stock — it is given by a reliable chef at one of 
the clubs — it will make 3 Y2 quarts, sufficient for 
a week ; i pint a day, with the addition of milk 
or vegetables or any other thickening, will do for 
a small family. Such concentrated stock requires 
an equal amount of water in cooking a second 
time. It may also be used in making sauces. 

PUREE JACKSON. (Paris.) 

Wash, parboil, and pare 6 large potatoes. Slice 
them, add 2 ounces of butter, fry lightly, then add 
salt, pepper, nutmeg, a bayleaf, some parsley, 1 

2 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

ounces of chopped ham, i sliced onion, and 6 
stalks of celery. Simmer for ^ hour. Press 
through a sieve, add i pint of white stock made 
from chicken or veal, and i pint of boiling milk, 
1 ounces of butter, and the yolk of i egg, blended 
with a little of the milk. Stir well, add some 
bread, toasted and cut in dice, called croutons, and 
serve at once. 

EGG SOUP. (Monte Carlo.) 

Cut 6 slices of stale bread and dip them lightly 
in sugar. Put them in the oven to brown, and 
have ready i pint of white stock and i pint of 
boiling milk, blended with the yolks of 3 eggs and 

1 ounce of butter. Add salt, pepper, and nutmeg 
and a spoonful of chopped parsley. Pour over 
the slices of toast and serve, after keeping hot, ten 
minutes. 

QUEEN SOUP. 

This is said to have been invented for Marie 
Stuart by the royal cook when she lived in 
France as dauphiness. It was a favorite with 
both Victoria and Napoleon Bonaparte. Cook 

2 large onions with 2 pieces of celery, both cut 
up, in 2 ounces of butter. Add some parsley, 
thyme, and a bayleaf, i chicken cut into joints, and 
2 quarts of water. Simmer for 4 hours. Take 

3 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

out the chicken, cut the meat of the wings and 
breast into dice, and keep the dark meat for 
croquettes or salad. Chop one dozen blanched 
almonds, the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, and 2 
slices of bread soaked in milk. Pound these 
with the meat and press through a sieve ; add to 
the soup, strained, i cup of boiling cream or rich 
milk, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Serve at once, 
hot. 

CHICKEN SOUP. (As made in Nice.) 

Cook I ounce of ham with i}4 quarts of chicken 
broth for }4 hour. Add i cup of young carrots 
cut into dice, i dozen small white onions, and i 
cup of turnips, cut into dice, all cooked previously, 
also two tablespoonfuls of cooked shredded cabbage, 
the meat from breast and wings cut into dice, and 
2 tablespoonfuls of boiled rice. Strain the soup 
before adding the vegetables and chicken, season it, 
and serve. 

LOBSTER SOUP. (Paris.) 

Boil I fine hen lobster weighing 2 pounds. 
Pick and chop the meat and pound the coral with 
I ounce of butter and rub it through a sieve. Add 
to the meat 2 quarts of white stock, i onion, pars- 
ley, thyme, and the rind of a lemon. Cook j^ hour, 
add a blending of flour and butter, and rub it 

4 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

through a sieve. Season it with salt, pepper, and 
nutmeg, add ^ pint of whipped cream, and serve, 
giving a little cream to each person. 

LOBSTER SOUP. (London.) 

Cut into dice the meat of a boiled lobster, fry- 
it with I carrot, i onion, 4 pieces of celery, all 
sliced, parsley, thyme, and the rind of a lemon, in 

2 ounces of butter. Add 6 ounces of rice flour, or 
cooked rice rubbed to a paste, 3 pints of good 
stock, and the meat and pounded coral. Cook yi 
hour, press through a sieve, add i glass of sherry, 
some of the meat in pieces, and made into force- 
meat balls with bread, herbs, eggs, and poached in 
a little broth. 

CREAM OF SHRIMPS. (As made in Nice.) 

Boil, shell, clean, and chop fifty shrimps, fry them 
in 1 ounces of butter, add i slice of stale bread, 

3 anchovies, 4 ounces of boiled rice, i sliced onion, 
salt, pepper, and 1 quarts of white stock. Cook 
this 1 hours. Press through a sieve a tablespoon- 
ful of sherry or a glass of white wine, and serve 
hot. 

CREAM OF SHRIMPS. (As made in Paris.) 

Parboil, shell, clean, and chop fifty fine shrimps, 
fry in 2 ounces of butter, add i cup of bread-crumbs 

5 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

of stale bread, not the crust, salt and pepper, i 
quarts of fish stock or that made of chicken or 
veal, I clove, i onion, sliced. Save six of the 
shrimps to add, cut into dice, before serving. 
Cook 1 hours, press through a sieve, add i cup of 
boiling cream, a little nutmeg, and the shrimps and 
2 tablespoonfuls of sherry. 

LOBSTER SOUP. (As made in Nantes, France.) 

Cook I ounce of chopped ham, i onion, and i 
carrot, cut fine, parsley, thyme, and a bayleaf, in i 
ounce of butter. Add 3 pounds of lobster meat, 
cooked and cut into dice, i pint of white wine, and 
lyi quarts of veal stock. Simmer i hour. Strain 
the soup, add 1 cups of boiled rice and i hard- 
boiled egg sliced and some butter. Season and 
serve with croutons. 

CONSOMME COLBERT. (France.) 

Clarify i quart of beef stock, well flavored and 
made from fresh meat, add i tablespoonful of 
sherry, and in each plate put an egg, poached in 
water and vinegar, to keep it firm and white. Add 
salt and pepper to taste and serve very hot. 

SOUP BONNE FEMME. (Provincial France.) 

This is the broth of the farmer and peasant's 
wife, wholesome and nourishing. Wash, dry, and 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

cut up 1 large lettuces, i pound of sorrel, and i 
pound of spinach. Add i Y2 quarts of good white 
stock and simmer, with % pound of butter, 2 
onions, and 2 carrots, for i hour. Add a blend- 
ing of I ounce of butter, i ounce of flour, the 
yolks of 2 eggs, and a cup of boiling milk, salt, 
and pepper. Press through a sieve, and serve 
with croutons. 

PECTORAL BROTH. (A French convent soup, given to 
delicate nuns.) 

Cut up an old fowl and put with the liver, heart, 
and gizzard, 2 quarts of water, with a handful 
of marshmallow root and 2 cups of barley, i 
carrot, 3 onions, parsley, thyme, and sweet mar- 
joram. Simmer for 3 hours, strain the broth, 
pressing the barley through a sieve ; add the yolk 
of I egg, salt, pepper, and a tablespoonful of rum 
or brandy. It should be reduced to almost a 
quart, and is very healing. 

PIGEON SOUP. (Belgium.) 

Blend i ounce of butter with 6 ounces of flour, 
add 3 pigeons, cut up and fried in butter, i ounce 
of chopped ham, 2 quarts of consomme or veal 
stock, parsley, thyme, a bayleaf, i leek, and a piece 
of celery. Cook i hour, strain it, cut the meat 
into dice, add i cup of cooked green peas, salt, 

7 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

pepper, i cup of cooked and sliced carrots, and a 
glass of white wine. 

FROG SOUP. (Normandy.) 

To i/^ quarts of white stock, add 1% ounces of 
flour, an onion, parsley, celery, salt, and pepper. 
Cook it I hour, strain and add i dozen frogs' legs, 
fried in butter, and a glass of sherry. Cook yi 
hour more, add the yolks of 1 eggs, blended with 
I cup of hot milk and a little butter. 

HARE SOUP. (Poland.) 

Cook the bones, trimmings, gravy, and stuffing 
of some cooked rabbit with 3 onions, i carrot, i tur- 
nip, sliced, 2 cloves, a little mace, parsley, thyme, 
a bayleaf, and a piece of celery. Add i ounce of 
butter, and then, when fried together, add i quart 
of beef stock. Cook 2 hours, strain it, taking out 
the bones and pressing the rest through a sieve. 
Add I dozen forcemeat balls, made of bread- 
crumbs, chopped ham, herbs, egg, and butter, and 
poached in stock, a tablespoonful of port wine, and 
salt and pepper. 

LIVER SOUP. (Poland.) 

Cut ^ pound of liver into slices, add flour, — a 
spoonful, — I ounce of butter and i onion, cut fine. 
Fry this and then pound it, add three slices of 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

stale bread, in crumbs, salt, and pepper and 3 pints 
of brown stock. Boil 20 minutes, press through 
a sieve, add yolk of i egg and some chopped 
parsley, and serve at once. 

EEL SOUP. (Hamburg.) 

Clean and cut into 2-inch pieces 2 pounds of 
eels. Add i pint of boiling water, salt, pepper, 
parsley, i carrot, i onion, and ^ cup of vinegar. 
Cook 20 minutes, then add i cup of finely sliced 
carrot, cooked in water until tender, and i cup of 
cooked peas, 2 quarts of white stock, parsley, 
some thyme, and sweet marjoram, one half of the 
eel broth and salt. Finally blend and add i cup of 
hot milk and the yolk of i egg and pour into a 
tureen over the eels. Pass with this a dish of 
stewed pears, as they do in Hamburg. 

FRENCH GIBLET SOUP. 

Chop the liver, wings, gizzard, and heart of a 
turkey, or 2 chickens fine, and fry them in i ounce 
of butter with i onion ; add i quart of beef stock 
and I pint of hot water, salt, pepper, i onion, i 
carrot, i turnip, 2 pieces of celery, and 2 ounces of 
rice. Cook for i hour and serve hot. 

ENGLISH GIBLET SOUP. 

Fry the chopped giblets in butter, as above, add 
2 ounces of flour, stir, and when brown, add i quart 

9 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

of beef stock, a bayleaf, some parsley, 3 pieces of 
cooked celery, cut into dice, 2 sliced hard-boiled 
eggs, a tablespoonful of sherry, and 6 forcemeat 
balls, made of the meat of the fowl, bread, herbs, 
and egg, poached in broth. Heat all well and 
serve hot. 

OXCHEEK SOUP. (England.) 

Fry 2 ounces of chopped ham with 2 onions and 
2 carrots, minced, a bayleaf, some parsley, in 2 
ounces of butter. Add 2 small heads of celery, i 
parsnip, and 2 slices of toast, a little mace, i clove, 
and 5 quarts of water, and the oxcheek cut into 
dice. Simmer gently 5 hours. Season to taste. 
It will make about 4 quarts of rich but economical 
broth. 

OXTAIL SOUP. (England.) 

This recipe and the one above were brought by 
French refugees who had learned, during exile and 
enforced poverty, how to make the best of their 
resources. 

Cut 3 oxtails into pieces and steep them in water 
for 2 hours. Drain them, fry in 2 ounces of butter 
or suet, add salt, pepper, 2 carrots, i leek, i onion, 
a piece of celery, i clove, and some parsley. Sim- 
mer 3 hours, remove the bones, and put the meat 
into the soup, add 6 small white onions, fried in 
butter until tender, and serve with croutons. 

10 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

CALF'S HEAD SOUP. (Recipe of the Hotel Star and 
Garter, Richmond, England.) 

Parboil and bone a calf's head. Put the bones 
and the meat, cut up, in 4 quarts of water with i 
ounce of flour, salt, pepper, a bayleaf, some parsley, 
a clove, 1 carrot, and i onion. Cook 4 hours, 
take out the bones, cut the meat into dice, strain 
the soup, add the meat, 3 hard-boiled eggs, sliced, 
I dozen poached forcemeat balls, made of some 
meat, bread-crumbs, herbs, and eggy 1 glass of 
sherry and i lemon, cut in slices. Serve at once, 
hot. 

BATTENBERG SOUP (as made at Windsor). 

Cook I calf's foot, 3 pounds of soup beef, 3 car- 
rots, 3 onions, 2 cloves, a piece of celery, parsley, 
and thyme, in 3 ^ quarts of water for 4 hours. 
Take out the meat, remove the bones, put the 
meat, cut up, back in the soup, and set aside until 
next day. Skim off the fat — clarify it, as directed 
for frying or braising — strain the soup, add suffi- 
cient flour and butter to thicken it, the meat, i 
glass of sherry, salt, pepper, and i cup of hot 
cream. 

REGENT'S SOUP. (England.) 

Add to the bones, stuffing, gravy, and trimmings 
of cold roast duck or game, 2 quarts of beef stock, 
I carrot, i onion, i turnip, i head of celery all 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

cut up, 4 ounces of barley, parsley, thyme, and a 
clove. Simmer 2 hours, press through a sieve, 
season to taste, add the pounded yolks of 3 hard- 
boiled eggs, half a cup of boiling milk, and a glass 
of sherry. 

PEPPER-POT. 

This dish is peculiar to Spain, but it was imported 
to Jamaica, whence the negroes took the recipe 
north. In Philadelphia, there are several small 
restaurants, kept by darkies who are famous for 
pepper-pot. 

To 3 quarts of water add i pint of vegetables, 
cut up, any kinds, mixed, you happen to have, in 
equal parts, using beans, peas, celery, carrots, 
onions, rice, lettuce, etc., also potatoes, add i 
pound of mutton, i pound of salt pork, and i 
pound of honeycomb tripe, cut up and fried in 
butter or suet, i bayleaf, i clove, parsley, thyme, 
and sweet marjoram. Cook, closely covered, 3 
hours. Set aside to cool, remove the fat, thicken 
with flour and butter and yolk of an egg, add salt 
and pepper, and serve very hot. 

CLEAR GAME SOUP. (Poland.) 

Cut up a calf's foot, add the bones and scraps 
and gravy of any cold game, duck, or rabbit, 2 
ounces of chopped ham, i onion, 1 carrots, parsley, 
th^me, a bayleaf, a bit of mace, and a piece of celery. 

12 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

Cook it with 2 quarts of water for 3 hours. Strain 
and clarify it with white of an egg, add salt, pepper, 
a glass of sherry, i hard-boiled egg, and i lemon, 
sliced. 

PIGEON BROTH. (Boulogne.) 

Lard and roast 4 fine pigeons, cut up the meat 
and put the bones and gravy in i quart of stock to 
cook. Chop the meat, with one onion, i pound 
of bread-crumbs soaked in milk, and i ounce of 
butter. Add to the rest and cook i hour. Press 
through a sieve, add i tablespoonful of port or 
sherry, salt, pepper, and some slices of toasted 
bread. 

LOBSTER MULLIGATAWNY. (England.) 

Cook 2 ounces of chopped ham, i carrot, i 
onion, i bayleaf, some parsley, i ounce of butter. 
Add two pounds of boiled lobster, cut into dice, 
I quart of veal stock, i spoonful of sherry, i ounce 
of flour mixed with i ounce of butter, a table- 
spoonful of curry powder, then cook ^ hour. 
Add the yolks of 2 eggs and ^ cup of hot cream, 
press through a sieve, and serve with a dish of 
boiled rice. 

LENTEN BROTH (as made in the convents of France 
and Austria). 

Cook 2 pounds of flounders or any white fish, 
cut up, with I carrot, i onion, i turnip, 2 pieces of 

13 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

celery, and a bunch of herbs, with i quart of water, 
for 2 hours. Take out the fish, remove skin and 
bones, and put the fish back again, add i pint of 
boiling milk, mixed with flour and butter, the 
yolk of an egg and juice of a lemon, salt, pepper, 
and nutmeg. Press through a sieve and serve 
hot. 

FISH BROTH (as made in Sweden). 

Take the water in which a large fresh fish has 
been boiled, add any scraps or gravy, left over; re- 
duce by boiling to i quart. Strain it, add i leek, 
6 potatoes, i carrot, cut up, a bayleaf, and some 
parsley. Simmer for ^/^ hour, add i pint of hot 
white stock, salt, pepper, a tablespoonful of sherry, 
and 12 oysters. Cook ten minutes more and 
serve. 

TURKEY SOUP. (Rouen.) 

Chop the dark meat of a turkey, add the gravy, 
bones, skin, and stuffing, i cup of bread-crumbs, an 
onion, some parsley, and 2 quarts of water. Cook 
3 hours, add salt and pepper, nutmeg, }4 cup of 
boiling milk, mixed with a little butter and flour, 
and press through a sieve. 

TCHI. (Russian Soup.) 

Make i pound of sausage meat into small balls 
and fry them brown. Chop 2 large onions and 

14 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

the heart of a cabbage, fry them in butter or suet, 
add 1 ounces flour, salt, pepper, parsley, and 3 
pints of stock. Cook i hour, add the sausage 
balls, and i glass of tarragon vinegar. 

CRECY SOUP. (Flanders.) 

The Prince of Wales always eats a bowl of this 
every 26th of August, in memory of his ancestor, 
the Black Prince, and the battle of Crecy. 

Wash, scrape, and slice 12 fine young carrots; 
cook in I ounce of butter with i spoonful of 
chopped ham or bacon, i onion, i turnip, a bay- 
leaf, parsley, and sweet marjoram. Stir while cook- 
ing, add I quart of stock, simmer two hours. 
Press through a sieve, add salt, pepper, and nut- 
meg and croutons. 

CONSOMME RACHEL. (France.) 

This soup was created for the great actress who, 
like most people of genius, was a bonne fourchette. 

Mix I cup of finely chopped and cooked chicken 
with sufficient white stock to make a paste. Season 
it and cook, like a custard, in a pan of water. Then 
cut in squares. Heat i quart of consomme with a 
thickening of flour and butter, i ounce of each, 
and the yolk of an egg and ^ cup of cream. Add 
salt, pepper, the chicken custard, and 2 tablespoon- 
fuls of cooked green peas. 

IS 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

POTAGE REUNION (invented for a banquet of a 
peace congress). 

Boil I pound of cooked salmon in 2 quarts of 
white stock for Yz hour. Add salt and pepper 
and a blending of i cup of milk, some flour, butter, 
and yolk of an egg. Cook carefully ten minutes 
longer ; add i tablespoonful chopped parsley, a 
little nutmeg and salt. Press through a sieve, add 
2 dozen small cooked oysters, and serve at once. 

CREME FERNEUSE. (Paris.) 

Peel and shred 4 large onions, 2 leeks, a bunch 
of herbs, 2 ounces ham or bacon, and fry in 2 
ounces butter. Add 2 ounces boiled rice, i quart 
milk, and i quart of veal stock. Cook 20 minutes, 
add I piece of celery, 4 peeled and sliced potatoes, 
the same amount of turnips, and simmer i^ hours. 
Add I cup of boiling clam or oyster juice, salt, 
and pepper. Press through a sieve and serve at 
once. 

POTAGE JACQUELINE. (Paris.) 

Blend i cup of milk, yolks 3 eggs, and i ounce 
flour, over the fire. Add 13^ quarts chicken broth, 
boiling hot, salt, pepper, parsley, then strain it 
and add one tablespoonful of boiled rice, the same 
of cooked green peas, carrots, and asparagus, cut 
up. 

16 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

POTAGE BELLE FONTAINE. (Paris.) 

Cook I quart good veal stock with i table- 
spoonful of chopped ham and the meat of a chicken, 
about 1 cupfuls, minced very finely. Simmer for 
40 minutes, add salt, pepper, a tablespoonful of 
chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of onion juice, 
then press through a sieve. Finally, add i cup of 
cooked and shredded cabbage. 

CREAM OF BARLEY SOUP. (Vienna.) 

Cook 1 ounces barley, 1 onions, and 1 carrots, 
sliced, I bayleaf, and some parsley, for 3 hours, in 
1 quarts veal or chicken stock. Add yolks of 
1 eggs and i cup of hot milk, and press through 
a sieve. Season and add i cup of asparagus tips 
or green peas, already cooked. 

ITALIAN SOUP. 

Cook y^ pint of fine cornmeal — they call it 
semolina in Italy — with i ounce butter, i quart 
white stock, salt, pepper, and nutmeg for i hour. 
Add some parsley, stir and strain it, then add the 
yolk of an egg, blended with y^ pint hot milk. 
Serve with grated Parmesan cheese and croutons. 

A FRENCH SOUP OF LEEKS. 

In the provinces they make many savory soups 
with vegetables which contain all the mineral salts 

2 XI 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

we need so much for our nerves and blood, es- 
pecially in the spring. 

Trim and slice a large bundle of leeks, discard 
the greenest part of the tops and fry the rest in 2 
ounces butter, add i ounces flour, then a pint of 
hot milk and a pint of white stock, parsley, salt, 
and pepper. Cook 40 minutes, add yolk of one 
egg, and serve with croutons. 

GERMAN VEAL BROTH. 

Cut up 1 pounds of the knuckle of veal and 
cook it in 3 quarts water, with i carrot, i onion, 
I clove, salt, pepper, parsley, and thyme. Simmer 
for 4 hours. Cool, skim, and strain it. To i>^ 
quarts of this stock add y^ pound cooked ver- 
micelli, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a pinch 
of nutmeg, and the yolk of an egg blended with 
half a cup of milk. 

TURNIP SOUP. (Rouen.) 

Pare and chop i quart of turnips, fry in 1 
ounces butter or suet, add half a spoonful of sugar 
and some parsley, and i pint consomme. Cook 
y^ hour. Make six slices of toast, pour the tur- 
nips, well seasoned, into a dish, lay the toast over, 
dot with butter, and bake }i hour. This is served 
in Rouen with a tureen of hot consomme and a 
tablespoonful given on each plate, but it can also 

18 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

be made into one broth, cooking the turnips in 
the whole amount of stock, pressing them through 
a sieve and putting toast on top, when serving. 
Is excellent made of rabbit stock, instead of beef. 

VEGETABLE SOUP (made in France, during Lent). 

Fry 2 carrots, 2 turnips, 2 onions, i^ pint string 
beans, i leek, i cup of spinach with some parsley 
and a bit of celery, in 2 ounces butter. Add 
I ounce flour, i quart, and a pint of milk, i pint 
of stewed tomatoes, and a pinch of baking soda, 
also a blade of mace. Simmer for 2 hours, press 
through a sieve, add a teaspoonful of sugar, a 
little butter blended with flour, and 2 tablespoon- 
fuls each of cooked rice and peas. 

TOMATO SOUP (as made in Germany). 

Cut up I pound of veal from the breast, add the 
bones and i ounce butter, i onion, and i carrot, 
and 3 quarts water, parsley, salt, and pepper, i 
pint tomatoes and i green pepper, cut up and free 
from seeds. Cook 3 hours, add a spoonful of 
sugar and i cup of boiled rice. 

ONION SOUP, WITH CHEESE. (Italy.) 

This is a favorite soup at the French and Italian 
restaurants in New York. It is the "plat de 
jour " for Mondays. 

19 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

Slice four large onions very thin, fry them in 
butter, and add them to i quart of well-flavored 
beef consomme. Put these in an earthen pipkin 
or marmitey and arrange on top four slices of 
toasted bread, on which sprinkle i tablespoonfuls 
of grated Parmesan cheese. Keep these hot, and 
serve in the dish, one slice of toast for each person. 
Small yellow bowls, such as are used for custards, 
etc., are generally passed with the soup, instead 
of ordinary soup plates. The foreign flavor de- 
pends greatly upon such trifles, imitating the 
inns of the old country. 

CHESTNUT SOUP. (A French recipe.) 

Boil I quart of large and sound chestnuts in 
salted water for 20 minutes ; peel and chop 
them. Add i quart water, a teaspoonful of salt 
and one of sugar, and the rind of a lemon. Cook 
for half an hour, then rub through a sieve. Add 
2 quarts white stock, a tablespoonful of butter 
blended with a tablespoonful of flour, pepper, and 
a little parsley. Stir for twenty minutes and rub 
through a sieve. Serve with toast. 

CHESTNUT SOUP. (Italian style.) 

Peel and blanch fifty large chestnuts. Cook 
them in sufficient veal stock to cover, with 1 

20 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, i teaspoonful of 
salt, a little pepper and nutmeg, for 2 hours. To 
every quart of this now add a pint of hot milk. 
Press through a sieve, add the yolk of one egg, a 
tablespoonful of sherry, and serve with croutons. 

CHEESE SOUP. (Southern France.) 

Peel, slice, and fry 6 onions with % pound of 
ham, minced, and 2 ounces butter. Add % pound 
bread-crumbs, 3 pints good white stock, — prefer- 
ably chicken, — salt, pepper, and a blade of mace. 
Cook for J^ hour, add ^ pound grated Parmesan 
cheese, and yolks of 2 eggs. Strain it by pressing 
it through a sieve, and serve at once. 

CUCUMBER SOUP. (Greece.) 

Peel 4 large cucumbers, slice them, and remove 
the seeds. Fry with i ounce butter, add salt, 
pepper, a blade of mace, i pint hot milk, and i 
quart white stock. Cook 1% hours. Thicken 
with flour and butter and press through a sieve. 

OYSTER SOUP. (A French recipe.) 

Drain i quart of oysters and season with salt, 
pepper, a blade of mace, a bayleaf, and i ounce 
butter. Add y^ pirit of white stock and cook 
fifteen minutes. Remove the oysters and herbs, 

21 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

and to the stock add the juice of the oysters and 
I pint of hot milk, the yolk of i egg, some parsley, 
and a blending of flour and butter. Put in the 
oysters, and after stirring a few moments serve 
hot. 

ONION BROTH. (Dieppe.) 

Parboil 6 large onions, slice them, and toss in i 
ounce of butter with salt, pepper, and some parsley. 
Add 1% tablespoonfuls of flour and i quart of 
white stock, made from fish or chicken, also i pint 
of hot milk. Press through a sieve and serve with 
slices of toast. 

POTATO SOUP. (Normandy.) 

Parboil, slice, and pare ten large potatoes. Drain 
them and add i onions, sliced, i bits of celery, and 
I ounce butter. Cook for lo minutes, add 4 
slices of stale bread, andv i quart of white stock. 
Simmer for 1 houf^,'' "add -salt, peeper, and nutmeg, 
I pint of hot milk blended with flour and butter. 
Press through a sieve and serve with croutons. 

POTATO SOUP. (Geneva.) 

Parboil and pare 6 large potatoes, fry them in 
I ounce of butter, add salt, pepper, parsley, a blade 
of mace, and a bayleaf, also ^ pound of chopped 
ham. Cover with i quart consomme, add a tea- 

22 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

spoonful of sugar, i of butter, i of flour, and the 
yolks of 2 eggs. Press through a sieve. 

COD SOUP. (Brittany.) 

To the flesh of three fine medium-sized cod, add 
3 quarts veal stock, parsley, thyme, sweet marjoram, 
and a bayleaf, also an onion. Cook 2 hours, press 
through a sieve, add flour blended with butter, salt, 
pepper, i glass of white wine, and i dozen oysters. 
Simmer for lo minutes and then serve. 

TURNIP SOUP. (Northern Italy.) 

Pare, slice, and fry ij4 quarts of turnips, with i 
tablespoonful sugar, 2 ounces butter, and 2 ounces 
flour. Add i pint of tomatoes, parsley, bayleaf, 
and thyme. Simmer i hour, press through a 
sieve. Add i cup of hot beef stock and a table- 
spoonful of grated cheese, salt, and pepper. 

CREAM OF RICE. (Paris.) 

Wash, drain, and parboil ^ pound of rice ; add 
I quart of chicken broth, salt, pepper, and parsley, 
and a tablespoonful of chopped onions. Cook i 
hour and press through a sieve ; add yolks of 2 
eggs mixed with 2 tablespoonfuls cream and 6 
forcemeat balls and some asparagus tips, both 
cooked previously. The balls must be made of 
chicken and bread-crumbs. 

23 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

CREAM OF CELERY. (Paris.) 

Cut off the tips of one head of celery and mash 
it with a potato-masher, then boil it twenty minutes 
in I pint of chicken broth. Blend 2 tablespoon- 
fuls of flour with the same amount of butter, add 
salt and pepper, stir in i pint rich, boiUng milk 
and then strain it carefully. 

BLACK BEAN SOUP. (Spain.) 

Brown one onion with i ounce butter, add i 
pint of black beans soaked over night and drained, 
}i a shin of beef and 3 quarts of water, i teaspoon- 
ful of allspice and cloves, tied in a bit of muslin, 
some parsley and thyme. Cook 4 hours, press 
through a sieve, add salt and pepper, i hard-boiled 
egg, and i lemon, sliced, and i glass of sherry. 

PUREE OF BROAD BEANS. (Brittany.) 

Cook I }4 pints of fresh Lima beans in salted 
water with i ounce chopped ham, some parsley, a 
clove, and an onion. When tender, drain and add 
I ounce butter and strain the liquor and put it 
aside. Press the beans through a sieve, add i pint 
of stock, I pint hot milk, salt, and pepper. It is 
best made with chicken or veal broth. Reduce 
the liquor by boiling and add to the soup. Serve 
with croutons. 

24 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

PUREE OF STRING BEANS. (Italy.) 

Pick and string and cut up i pint of beans, par- 
boil, and strain them, and add i pint white stock 
and 2 ounces butter mixed with i ounces flour. 
Cook 20 minutes, season, and press through a 
sieve. Add i cup of hot cream or rich milk and 
serve. 

POTAGE ST. GERMAIN. (France.) 

Cook I quart fresh peas in water to cover, with 
some parsley, i leek, and ^ ounce butter, added. 
Press all through a sieve. Stir in i pint of hot 
stock, chicken or veal, with yolks of 2 eggs, 
pepper, salt, and a little nutmeg. Add ^ a tea- 
spoonful of sugar and i cup of boiling cream. 

LEMON SOUP. (France.) 

This is a very dainty soup and deserves to be 
better known. 

Heat I y^ quarts of chicken stock and make 
some forcemeat balls of a little cold chopped 
chicken, bread-crumbs, herbs, and yolk of an egg. 
Poach them in the stock and keep warm. Now 
thicken the stock with yi cup of milk or cream, 
mixed with the yolks of 3 eggs, salt, and pepper, 
the juice of a lemon and a pinch of nutmeg. Serve 
with slices of toast. A convent recipe, dating to 
the days before the Revolution. 

25 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

CREAM OF LETTUCE. (France.) 

Wash and drain three large heads of lettuce, 
chop them, and fry them with }i pound of butter. 
Add salt, pepper, a bunch of parsley, 5 ounces of 
rice, and 1 quarts of white stock. Cook, for 45 
minutes, press through a sieve, add i pint of 
boiling milk, and serve with croutons. 

SORREL SOUP. (Provincial France.) 

This recipe comes from the country, but the 
homesick students can always find sorrel soup in 
the little restaurants of the Latin Quarter. 

Pick sufficient sorrel to make a pint of puree, 
chop it, and add i ounce butter ; cook, stirring well, 
for 20 minutes. Add i ounce flour and press 
through a sieve ; let it cook again, with i pint hot 
milk and i pint of stock ; season it with salt, pepper, 
and nutmeg and stir in the yolks of 2 eggs. Strain 
it again and serve with croutons. 

ENDIVE SOUP. (Alsace-Lorraine.) 

Trim and parboil 4 heads of chicory, drain it 

and chop it very fine. Add 1 ounces butter, salt, 

pepper, and mace, and 1 ounces flour. Then add 

I quart of veal stock and i cup of boiling milk. 

Cook for I hour, add yolks of 2 eggs, beaten in yi 

cup of milk, and strain it through a sieve. Serve 

at once. 

26 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

LENTIL SOUP. (Bavaria.) 

Soak I pint of lentils overnight, drain them, and 
add I quart of stock and i pint of water, some 
parsley, i leeks, a bit of celery, i ounces of chopped 
ham, an onion, and a carrot. Cook 3 hours, rub 
through a sieve, add the juice of a lemon, salt, and 
pepper. If not thick and smooth, add a table- 
spoonful of flour, mixed with as much butter. 

VEGETABLE MARROW SOUP. (England.) 

Vegetable marrow is a species of squash, and the 
latter is a good substitute. 

Peel and slice a large squash ; fry it in 1 ounces 
butter, with salt, pepper, and 4 ounces of flour. 
Add I quart of milk and i pint of strong veal or 
chicken stock, some parsley, onion, and a carrot. 
Cook for I hour, press through a sieve, add a pinch 
of sugar, a tablespoonful of butter, and serve with 
croutons. 

TUSCANY SOUP. (Italy.) 

Peel and slice and fry 1 egg-plants, with i ounce 
of butter and as much flour, salt, pepper, a blade 
of mace, 3 large tomatoes, 4 mushrooms, some 
parsley, and then add i quart of consomme. Cook 
for I hour, press through a sieve, add 1 table- 
spoonfuls of grated cheese and 1 ounces of cooked 

27 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

macaroni. In Italy, the above mixture is baked in 
a dish, and a spoonful is added to every plate of 
consomme when serving, but the recipe as here 
given is better suited to American tastes. 

CABBAGE SOUP. (Sicily.) 

Trim and slice a nice head of cabbage, parboil it, 
and drain it and chop it finely. Fry it in an ounce 
of butter ; add a tablespoonful of flour, salt, pepper, 
and I quart of veal broth. Simmer i hour, press 
it through a sieve, add i pint of hot milk, season 
it, and serve with croutons. 

GREEK BROTH. 

Cut up a shoulder of mutton, or the neck, take 
out the bones and add to both meat and bones 2 
quarts of water, ^ pint split peas, 2 tablespoonfuls 
of chopped ham, i onion, i carrot, some parsley 
and thyme. Cook 3 hours, remove the bones, 
cut up the meat and press the rest through a sieve. 
Season to taste and return the meat to the broth. 

PRUSSIAN SOUP. (A national dish.) 

Cut up and fry in 3 ounces of suet 2 heads of 
celery, 2 carrots, 2 turnips, 2 onions, 2 leeks, and 
I pound of potatoes. Add >^ pound of beef cut 
into dice, cover and steam, but do not let it burn. 
Then add 2 quarts of water, i pint of dried beans 

28 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

soaked overnight, and a bunch of herbs. Cook 4 
hours, press through a sieve, and add salt and 
pepper. 

PUCHERO. (Spanish Soup.) 

This also is a national dish, common to rich 
and poor. 

Cut up three pounds of beef, i pig's foot, y^ 
pound of ham, the giblets of a fowl, and three 
handfuls of garbanzos, or chick peas. Simmer 1 
hours, add a slice of pumpkin, free from seeds, i 
large carrot, i head of lettuce, Yz a cabbage, and a 
bunch of herbs. Cook i hour longer, add 6 small 
sausages, and boil till they are done. Strain and 
thicken the soup and serve the meat and vegetables, 
neatly arranged on a separate dish. 

GARBURE. (Another national dish of Spain.) 

Parboil, peel, and slice a small white cabbage, 
drain it, and add ^ pound of sliced bacon, salt, 
pepper, a clove, i leek, i carrot, i onion, and 6 
pieces of celery. Stir these with enough suet or 
butter to brown them, add two quarts of good 
stock, and cook for two hours, or as much as will 
cover the meat and vegetables. Make a forcemeat 
with y, pound of stale bread, butter, stock, and 
herbs, and line a dish with it, arranging the vege- 
tables, etc., in layers with forcemeat between. Add 

29 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

enough stock to moisten all and have forcemeat 
and a layer of grated cheese on top. Bake in the 
oven half an hour and serve with a tureen of hot 
consomme. When helping the latter, put a table- 
spoonful in each plate. 

HUNGARIAN SOUP. 

Chop 2 cups of cold roast duck with i ounce of 
parsley, bayleaf, and thyme. Fry in i ounce of 
butter, add i ounce flour, then i quart of beef 
stock, and Y^ pint of white wine or cider. Cook i 
hour. Rub through a sieve, add some pieces of 
duck and i green pepper, sliced and free from 
seeds and fried in butter, also i cup of cooked bar- 
ley, salt, and pepper to taste. 

MANNHEIM SOUP. (Germany.) 

To I quart of stock add sufficient tomatoes and 
herbs to make a cream when strained, heat it again, 
and add i ounce of rice and Yi pound of cooked 
salmon or shrimps chopped fine, an onion, a carrot, 
and thyme and parsley. Cook ^ hour or longer, 
rub through a sieve, and serve with a plate of 
boiled rice. 

CHERRY SOUP. (Berlin.) 

Trim and stone i pint of red cherries, add i pint 
of water, juice and grated rind of a lemon, cinna- 

30 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

mon, sugar to taste, and 3 tablespoonfuls of wine 
or cordial, claret is the best. Cook until done and 
serve, hot or very cold, with a plate of buttered 
toast. It will take about half an hour to cook, 
mashing the fruit well. These fruit and wine 
soups are favorite hot weather fare in Austria 
and Germany. 

APPLE SOUP. 

Pare and stew 8 fine apples in ^ pint of water. 
Add sugar to taste, press through a sieve, flavor 
with lemon juice and nutmeg and add a tablespoon- 
ful of cornstarch. Cook about ten minutes, add, 
when cool, i pint of white wine or cider, and pour 
it over 4 apples, sliced and cooked in syrup. 

STRAWBERRY SOUP. 

Wash and drain ^ pound of strawberries, sprinkle 
them with sugar, set them aside. Make a syrup 
of I pound of sugar and 3 pints of water, add i ^ 
pounds of strawberries and the juice of a lemon; 
Mash, strain, and cool this; add Y^ pint of light 
wine and the sugared berries. Serve very cold. 

WINE SOUP. 

Mix rapidly on the fire i quart of white wine, i 
quart of water, i tablespoonful of cornstarch, yolks 
of 6 eggs, juice and rind of a lemon, and 4 table- 

31 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

spoonfuls of sugar. Stir it, but do not let it boil, 
for 20 minutes. Then add the beaten whites, 
sweetened with sugar, and put on ic to cool. 

CHOCOLATE SOUP. (Italy.) 

Boil 2 ounces of grated chocolate, a spoonful of 
vanilla, sugar to taste, and one quart of milk, 
until smooth. Add the yolks of 4 eggs well 
beaten, take off and pour over slices of stale 
sponge cake. Serve cold. 



32 



Chapter Two — Fish, Eggs, and Sauces 

SHRIMP CUTLETS. (Vaucluse.) 

Chop and mince i}^ pounds of freshly boiled 
shrimps. Melt i ounces of butter and add i ounces 
of flour, then i cup of boiling cream, also the 
minced fish. Stir and boil and take off the fire, 
add the yolks of 3 eggs and a pinch of nutmeg, 
salt, pepper, and some chopped parsley. Pour 
into a buttered pan ^ inch deep ; when cold, cut 
Into shape, dip in egg and crumbs, and fry in boil- 
ing lard. Stick a small piece of macaroni, to 
imitate a bone, at the end of each cutlet and serve 
with a good sauce, Tartare or Bechamel. 

SHRIMPS, ST. JACQUES. (Trouville.) 

Shell I quart of boiled shrimps, chop them, and 
fry in i ounce of butter with an onion. Add i 
cup of milk, salt, pepper, parsley, and the yolk 
of I egg. Stir, but do not let it boil. Pour into 
buttered dishes or clam shells, cover with bread- 
crumbs and bake till brown. Serve with sliced 
lemon. 

SHRIMPS, BORDELAISE. 

Cut into dice ^ can or i cup of shrimps, add i 
tablespoonful of chopped ham, i ounce flour, 
3 ZZ 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

and I ounce of butter, mixed, i cup of stock or 
consomme, i tablespoonful of tomato sauce or 
mushroom ketchup, i slice of chopped onion, a 
bayleaf, and i tablespoonful of chopped parsley. 
Cook carefully until the sauce is smooth and thick, 
adding salt and pepper. 

INDIAN PUFFS. (England.) 

Pick and chop finely i pint of freshly boiled 
shrimps, add a tablespoonful of butter and a tea- 
spoonful of curry powder, and as much cream or 
white stock as will make it a smooth paste. Roll 
sufficient pie-crust very thin, cut into 4-inch 
squares, fill with this, fold in triangles, and fry 
them in boiling fat. Serve on a napkin garnished 
with parsley. 

CRABS (as cooked in Marseilles). 

Boil, pick, and chop into dice 6 large crabs, fry 
in 1 ounces of butter with i tablespoonful of 
minced onion, i ounce flour, i green pepper, free 
from seed, and 4 pods of ochra, all cut into dice, 
add some parsley, i cup of white stock, and 2 table- 
spoonfuls of white wine. Cook 20 minutes, season 
to taste, and serve with a border of boiled rice. 

SOUFFLE OF LOBSTER. (Nice.) 

Blend i ounce of butter with 2 ounces of flour ; 
add I gill of milk, salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and 

34 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

Y2 pound of cooked and chopped lobster, then the 
yolks of 3 eggs, 6 oysters, chopped fine, a gill of 
cream, whipped stiff, and the beaten whites of 3 
eggs. Pour into a buttered mould, steam like a 
custard for ^ an hour, turn out carefully and 
cover with a white sauce, containing mushrooms. 

LOBSTER, EN CASSEROLE. (Southern France.) 

Boil, pick, and cut up a fine large lobster ; fry 
it in olive oil, adding onions and carrots, 2 of 
each, a bayleaf, some thyme, parsley, and half a 
glass of sherry or white wine. Be sure to rub the 
casserole or earthen saucepan with a bit of garlic 
before putting in the ingredients. Cook for 20 
minutes, stirring it, then take out the lobster, add 
Yi cup of stewed tomatoes to the sauce and as 
much consomme. Cook for 10 minutes longer, 
put in the lobster, and serve in the casserole with 
slices of toast and seasoning to taste. 

LOBSTER OMELETTE. (Paris.) 

Chop finely the meat of a lobster, 2 pounds, 
add I pint of white broth, thyme, bayleaf, and 
parsley, the juice of a lemon, and 1 tablespoonfuls 
of cream. Cook for 10 minutes, season it, and 
press through a fine sieve. Have ready a light 
omelette, and pour this across it before folding it 
and around it, when folded, on the dish. 

35 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

LOBSTER, ST. STEPHAN. 

Cook and cut up a large lobster, saute it in olive 
oil, add parsley, salt, pepper, and a tablespoonful 
of chopped onion. Add cup of white stock and 
I tablespoonful of Chablis, cook lo minutes, and 
serve hot. 

LOBSTER AND OYSTER PLANT MOUSSE. (Paris.) 

Boil, pound, and press through a sieve the flesh 
of a lobster, add i tablespoonful of mayonnaise, the 
same of melted aspic jelly, and ^ pint of whipped 
cream. Pour into a border mould and set on ice 
to harden. Boil and cut into dice sufficient salsify 
to fill the centre when turned out, and mix it with 
some mayonnaise dressing. Serve cold. 

LOBSTER. (Mariner's Style.) 

Boil and cut into dice the meat of a lobster, add 
1 onions, chopped fine, a bit of garlic, i ounces of 
butter, and then j4 cup of white stock, mixed with 
the yolks of two eggs. Add parsley, salt, and 
pepper, cook carefully 20 minutes, add a spoonful 
of lemon juice and a glass of white wine. Serve 
in the casserole in which it was cooked. 

SHRIMPS (as cooked in Nancy). 

Parboil, cut into dice, and fry 18 shrimps with 
yi ounce of butter and i ounce of chopped ham. 

36 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

Add I cup of white broth, parsley, salt and pepper, 
and the juice of a lemon. Pour into a dish over 
squares of toast. 

LOBSTER (^laCareme). 

Boil, pick, and mince the meat of a large lobster, 
add salt, pepper, lemon juice, or a tablespoonful 
of tarragon vinegar, 2 ounces of butter, as much 
flour, and ^ cup each of cream and stock. Cover 
with bread-crumbs and bake ^ hour. 

BOUILLABAISSE. (Marseilles.) 

Cut Up into pieces and remove the bones from 
3 pounds of fish, — say, one pound each of cod, 
halibut, and bluefish, although any fresh fish in 
due proportion will answer. Add 6 shrimps or i 
lobster or 2 crabs, cooked, and cut into large 
pieces, ^ pint of olive oil ; fry lightly, and add 
I lemon and 2 tomatoes, i onion and i carrot, 
all sliced, i pinch of saffron, — as much as lies on 
a ten-cent piece, — a bayleaf, and some parsley. 
A clove of garlic is used, unless the casserole is 
rubbed with it before cooking. Stir for lo min- 
utes ; add i cup of stock and i glass of white wine 
or cider. Cook 15 minutes longer, pour out into 
a bowl, place slices of toast in the casserole, and 
return the fish and vegetables, allowing the sauce 

37 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

sufficient time to soak into the toast, and adding 
salt and pepper to taste. 

XMAS CARP (as cooked in Poland and Italy on December 24, 
for supper). 

Clean and scale the fish, — any white fish may- 
be substituted, — cut it into slices, and fry it with 
onion, parsley, thyme, salt, and pepper./ Add ^ 
pint of white wine to every 2 pounds orlish and 
cook for 10 minutes, then put the dish in the 
oven and bake for half an hour or until tender. 
Add 2 lemons sliced, and a cupful each of chopped 
almonds and currants. Cook long enough to 
soften the latter, adding stock if not moist enough, 
and serve in a deep dish. 

FISH (as cooked in Russia Easter Eve). 

Chop sufficient cold fish, boiled previously in 
water and vinegar, with onion, carrot, and herbs, 
then freed from bones and skin. Mix with as 
much mayonnaise dressing as will cover and set 
on Ice 2 hours. Melt some aspic jelly and whip 
it very stiff, and fill a mould shaped like a cross in 
alternate layers of jelly and fish. Set aside to 
harden and turn it out on a bed of lettuce leaves 
garnished with a border of whole hard-boiled eggs. 
The originality of this quaint dish lies entirely in 

38 




MATELOTE OF FISH IN CASSEROLE, NORMANDY 
(See page jg) 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

the shape of the mould, which must be a square or 
Greek-cross shape. 

MATELOTE OF FISH. (Normandy.) 

Skin and slice i pounds of fresh fish, either all 
one sort or several kinds mixed. Fry it in i 
ounces of butter with 20 white and very small 
onions till brown. Add i yi ounces of flour, 
salt, and pepper, 6 sliced mushrooms, and a spoon- 
ful of lemon juice, a bunch of herbs, ^ pint of 
red wine, and }4 pint of consomme. Cook ^ an 
hour, season it to taste, and serve in the casserole. 
It is a sort of northern bouillabaisse. 

BOURRIDE. (Marseilles.) 

Cut up and fry 1 ^ pounds of salt water fish, 
with a crab, a bit of garlic, parsley, thyme, a bay- 
leaf, a clove, a glass of hot water, and a glass of 
cider. Boil 20 minutes, add a tablespoonful of 
flour, an ounce of butter, the juice of a lemon, 
the yolks of 2 eggs, pepper, and salt. Add the 
outside of a green pepper, chopped fine, and the 
pods of 2 ochra. Cook ten minutes longer, care- 
fully, and serve in the same dish, hot. 

BRANDADE. (Montpellier.) 

Soak for three days lyi pounds of salt cod, 
renewing the water often. Drain it, cover with 

39 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

hot water, and boil 15 minutes. Remove the skin 
and bones and chop the fish, then fry it with 2 
chopped onions and 2 tablespoonfuls of olive oil. 
Cook 10 minutes, pound this all well, return to 
the fire and add the juice of 1 lemons, a table- 
spoonful of oil, and twice as much cream. Beat 
and stir and season it, adding mace and parsley 
and the juice of one more lemon. When per- 
fectly smooth and well cooked, pile it on a plate 
and serve with a white sauce containing oysters, 
mushrooms, and shrimps. 

CARP (as cooked in Coblentz). 

Clean and cut into strips 1 pounds of carp or 
any white fish, add one glass of claret, yi pint of 
consomme, salt, pepper, some parsley, thyme, and 
a clove, I cup of chopped mushrooms, i carrot, 
and I onion, shredded. Cover, and let it simmer 
for an hour. Add a tablespoonful of capers and 
serve, poured on slices of toast. 

MACKEREL, BAKED IN CREAM. (Austria.) 

Skin, bone, and slice a large fish into four pieces, 
season it and fry it in butter. Drain it and keep 
warm. Mix yi pint of white stock or Bechamel 
sauce with two tablespoonfuls of sherry and the 
yolk of an egg. Stir over the fire, pour it over 

40 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

the fish, adding chopped parsley, onion, and bread- 
crumbs over the top of the dish. Bake till 
brown. 

MACKEREL. (Germany.) 

Clean and score across the back a large fresh 
fish, add two cups of hot water, a teaspoonful of 
salt, an onion, and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar. 
Cook 40 minutes, drain it, reduce the sauce, strain 
it, and add i dozen capers ; cook a few minutes 
longer and pour over the fish. 

PICKLED MACKEREL. (Germany.) 

Skin, bone, and cut into pieces 4 pounds of 
fresh mackerel, put it in layers in a stone crock, 
sprinkling herbs, pepper and salt and bayleaves 
between each, using i tablespoonful, cut fine, of 
all the herbs. Press down, cover with vinegar, 
and seal air-tight. Bake in a moderate oven 6 
hours. It will keep several days in a cool place. 
Good for supper. 

STAR-GAZY PIE. (Cornwall.) 

Clean and scale some fresh mackerel, season it 
with parsley, thyme, sweet marjoram, and bay- 
leaves. Butter a dish and line it with bread- 
crumbs, put in the fish, in layers, with herbs and 
crumbs between. Add the yolks of 4 eggs beaten 

41 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

with 2 tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, cover 
with a layer of thinly cut bacon and a very light 
pie-crust. Bake 2 hours and serve, hot or cold. 

FINDON HADDIE SAVORY. (Scotland.) 

Dip the fish in boiling water, and take out all 
the bones and skin. Pound the meat in a mortar, 
add a little pepper, salt, and a spoonful of lemon 
juice, also i ounce of butter and a tablespoonful 
of cream. Cook and stir until thick and pour 
over slices of toast buttered and dipped for an 
instant in hot water. For supper or lunch. 

TROUT (as cooked in Geneva). 

Broil the trout, first dipping them in olive oil, 
lemon juice, onion juice, and seasoning. Make a 
sauce of i^ pint of consomme, a tablespoonful of 
claret, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and a 
teaspoonful of anchovy sauce. Cook and strain 
and pour over the fish. 

BAKED SHAD (as cooked in France). 

Butter a large, flat earthenware dish, lay the 
shad, split open, upon it, and cover with a forcemeat 
made of the roes, some bread-crumbs, parsley, bay- 
leaf, thyme, butter, and 6 mushrooms, all chopped 
and mixed together. Sew the fish up and bake 

42 




BAKED SOLE, NORMANDY 
{See page 43) 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

for an hour, basting it with y^ pint of white stock, 
seasoned with lemon juice, sherry, onion, and 
carrot. 

BROILED FISH (as cooked in Normandy). 

Clean and split a large fish, such as flounder, 
bluefish, or mackerel, cover it with a mixture of 
sweet oil, vinegar, chopped onion, herbs, salt, and 
pepper. Set in a cold place for an hour, turning 
it several times. Drain it, dip it in bread-crumbs, 
then in egg and more crumbs, and broil till brown. 
Serve with Tartare sauce. 

SOLE, ^ la Normande. 

Make a forcemeat of bread, herbs, oysters, and 
truffles, mushrooms, and i^ pound of ham, all cut 
up and mixed with ^ cup of white stock. Stuflf 
the fish with this, squeeze the juice of a lemon 
over it, dot it with butter and bread-crumbs. Lay 
it in a dish, pour over it i^ pint of white stock, 
mixed with some parsley, pepper, and salt. Bake 
40 minutes, basting often, and serve in the same 
dish, adding more stock, if too dry. 

FISH SALAD (as made in the Tyrol). 

Remove skin and bones and flake 2 cups of 
cold boiled fish, add ^ pound of cold boiled 
shrimps, cut into dice, mix with 4 tablespoonfuls 

43 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

of vinegar, a little pepper, ^/^ teaspoonful of celery- 
seed, and 2 tablespoonfuls of capers. Stir well and 
add I green pepper, cut up finely and free from 
seeds, and then enough mayonnaise dressing to 
make it moist. Serve in a bed of lettuce leaves, 
with bits of aspic jelly and 2 hard-boiled eggs, 
sliced and arranged as a garnish. 

FISH PIES. 

These are served at all of the English and 
French inns, and are not hard to make at home. 

Dip y^, pound of stale bread-crumbs in enough 
milk to moisten, add i ounce of butter, a little salt 
and pepper, and beat until smooth over the fire. 
Add parsley, thyme, and a bay leaf, and take off to 
cool. Skin and bone 2 good flounder, cod, bass, 
or mackerel ; scrape and pound half of the flesh 
and add it to the bread mixture. Season the rest, 
cut into slices, and arrange it in layers in a deep 
dish, with forcemeat of the fish and bread between, 
and dropping little bits of butter here and there. 
Have ready i cup of fish broth or consomme or 
veal stock, rather thick and well seasoned ; pour it 
over and arrange slices of bacon on top, under a 
lid of fine puff paste. Leave a hole in the middle 
for the steam to escape, cover with a layer of 
buttered paper, and bake 3 hours in a slow oven. 

44 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

Take ofF the paper, and when the pie is brown, 
fill the hole with y^ cup of stock, mixed with a 
tablespoonful of sherry or white wine, and serve 
cold. 

MACKEREL PIE. (Scotland.) 

Make a forcemeat of the roes and some parsley, 
onion, butter, bread-crumbs, thyme, sweet mar- 
joram, and the yolk of an egg. Cut the fish into 
strips and roll them with a filling of this. Arrange 
neatly in a deep dish, pour in ^ cup of stock and 
cover with a layer of mashed potatoes. Bake ^ of 
an hour and serve hot. 

FRIED OYSTERS. (Holstein style.) 

Open and drain i dozen fine large oysters, dry 
in a napkin, and keep the juice for soup. Mix 
some salt and pepper, ^ a cup of flour, a little 
butter, and the yolk of i eggs. Dip each oyster 
in this, covering well, then in a mixture of equal 
parts bread-crumbs and grated cheese. Fry them 
in boiling fat, drain and garnish with parsley and 
lemon. 

SALMON CROQUETTES. (A Swedish recipe.) 

Fresh salmon is very fine and plentiful in 
Norway and Sweden, but canned fish may be used 
instead. Cook ^ pint of white stock with ^ 
ounce of butter, yolks of two eggs, parsley, pepper 

45 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

and salt, onion juice, and then add sufficient 
chopped salmon, free from bones, and stir well. 
Let it cool, make into croquettes, dip in eggs and 
bread-crumbs, and fry till brown. Drain carefully 
and serve with Tartare sauce and border of parsley. 

SALMON (as cooked along the Rhine). 

Cut up 3 shallots, i parsley roots, and a bunch 
of the leaves, with thyme, a bayleaf, a clove, and 
3 carrots. Fry these in butter and add y^ pint of 
white wine. Lay the fish in a flat dish, pour this 
over, cover closely, and stew it until tender. Take 
out the fish, strain the sauce, thicken it with flour, 
butter, and a cup of rich milk, then pour it over 
the fish and serve with parsley and lemon. The 
fish may be cut into cutlets before cooking, if the 
kettle is too small to hold it. 

SALMON (as cooked in Provincial France). 

Cut i]4; pounds of salmon into four pieces, 
season to taste, add juice of a lemon and i ounce 
of butter. Cook it in a pan and add i dozen 
oysters, 6 shrimps, cut into dice, and i cup of 
white stock thickened with flour and butter. Stir 
for lo minutes, or until the oysters and shrimps are 
done ; add the yolk of i egg, a tablespoonful of 
sherry, and arrange the fish on a dish, with the 
sauce poured over. 

46 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

BAKED SHAD ROE, (Northern France.) 

Skin two large roes and lay them on an earthen 
plate which has been sprinkled with bread-crumbs, 
chopped onion, and parsley, 3 mushrooms minced, 
and some butter. Cover with more of these, and 
pour over i cup of white stock mixed with a 
spoonful of sherry. Bake in the oven ^^ an 
hour, drain off the sauce, strain it, and thicken it 
with flour and butter. Pour it over the fish once 
more, cover the top with bread-crumbs, and 
sprinkle lemon juice here and there. Brown it 
in the oven and serve hot. 

MACKEREL (as cooked in the Tyrol). 

Wash and dry 1 fresh mackerel, put in a sauce- 
pan with salt, pepper, nutmeg, parsley, and chopped 
onion, and 1 tablespoonfuls of cider. Cover and 
cook yi hour, add i cup of veal broth, thickened 
with flour and butter, the yolk of an egg, and a 
tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar. Strain this 
sauce, pour over the fish again, dot with bread- 
crumbs, and bake a light brown. Serve in the 
same dish in which it is baked. Earthen dishes 
are always used abroad, red, striped with yellow 
or black. 

TURBAN OF SOLE. (Paris.) 

Trim two large soles or flounders into cutlets, 
fill them with a forcemeat of fish, bread, herbs, 

47 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

and egg, roll and arrange in a ring-shaped mould. 
Cook, like a custard, in a pan of water, for i hour, 
or they can be tied securely with thread and cooked 
in stock. Drain the fillets, take off the string, 
arrange in a circle and fill the centre with a sauce 
made of i cup of white broth, i cup of oyster 
juice, some butter and flour, i dozen oysters, 
yolks of two eggs, salt, pepper, and chopped 
parsley. 

RICHMOND EEL PIE. (England.) 

Skin, clean, and cut up 2 large eels, wash and 
dry them and cook with i ounce of butter, 2 table- 
spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, a tablespoonful 
of chopped parsley, i minced onion, a bayleaf, salt, 
pepper, rind of a lemon, i glass of sherry, and a 
cup of consomme. Cook until the eels are tender, 
strain the sauce and thicken it with flour and but- 
ter. Line a deep dish with pastry, arrange the 
eels in it and pour the sauce over, with sliced hard- 
boiled eggs on top. Then cover with a lid of thin 
pastry, ornamented with leaves of the same, glaze 
with yolk of an egg and bake it i hour in a mod- 
erate oven, serve hot or cold. 

RECIPE FOR FRYING FISH. (New Haven.) 

Wash and dry the fish, sprinkle it well with 
flour, salt, and pepper, then dip it in egg and bread- 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

crumbs or coarse oatmeal, and fry in a deep pan of 
boiling fat. 

CRABS AND TOMATOES. (Provence.) 

Boil enough crabs and chop fine ; to each pound 
add ^ as much bread-crumbs, ^ pint of tomato 
sauce, rind and juice of ^ a lemon, salt, pepper, 
parsley, and i glass of Chablis or sherry. Stir well 
and serve hot, with a border of toast or fried 
potatoes. 

CRABS, STYLE OF SAINT LAWRENCE. 

Saint Lawrence was that early martyr who was 
broiled for his faith, and French cooks commemo- 
rate his suffering somewhat strangely in naming 
and cooking this dish. 

Chop % pound of shelled crabs, add ]4 pint of 
white stock, a tablespoonful of sherry or lemon 
juice, salt, pepper, and a tablespoonful of grated 
cheese. Cook for lo minutes, pour over slices of 
toast, and add more cheese, on top. Brown with a 
salamander or in a very hot oven. 

OYSTERS IN CREAM. (German fashion.) 

Drain 24 oysters, add the juice of a lemon, i 

ounce of butter, salt, and pepper and bring to a 

boil. Melt I ounce of butter, add 1 teaspoonfuls 

of flour, yi pint of white stock, a spoonful of 

4 49 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

mushroom ketchup, and cook and stir 5 minutes. 
Blend the yolks of 2 eggs with ^ cup of cream or 
milk, add to the sauce and pour over the oysters. 

OYSTERS IN FORCEMEAT. (A French recipe.) 

Cook 1 8 oysters with i ounce of butter, y^, cup 
of juice, pepper, and salt, for 10 minutes. Have 
ready 6 ounces of forcemeat made of equal parts 
of chopped chicken and bread-crumbs, an egg, 
herbs, a spoonful of butter and seasoning, mixed 
with enough milk or stock to make a paste. Dip 
each oyster in this, covering thickly, then in bread- 
crumbs and egg, and fry brown. Serve with a 
white sauce and border of parsley. 

SCALLOPS (as cooked in Brest, France). 

Fry I pint of scallops in i ounce of butter, add 
2 minced onions, a tablespoonful of flour, and ^ 
pint of the juice, also the yolks of 4 eggs and 
y2 cup of bread-crumbs. Bake in small shells. 

TROUT. (Provincial France.) 

Clean, wash, and dry 6 fine trout, add salt, pep- 
per, a carrot, a bayleaf, and some thyme, and i pint 
of water mixed with i tablespoonful of vinegar. 
Cook for 15 minutes, drain the fish and cover them 
with a sauce made of ^ pint stewed tomatoes, 2 

50 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

truffles, 6 mushrooms, and an onion, cut up, 12 
olives and some parsley. This must boil 1 5 minutes 
before straining it over the fish and using the olives 
as a garnish along the edge. Serve at once, very 
hot. 

SMELTS (as cooked in Dresden). 

Clean and dry 1 8 large smelts, take out the bones 
and stuff them with a forcemeat of bread-crumbs, 
butter, chopped oysters, and mushrooms, seasoned 
to taste. Put in a dish, cover with some chopped 
onion, the juice of a lemon, ^ pint of milk or 
white stock, and i ounce of butter. Bake for yi 
hour. Serve with a border of parsley and more 
sauce made of flour, butter, milk, or stock, in a 
bowl, separately. 

COLLARED EELS. (Germany.) 

Clean and split and bone one large eel, dust it 
with salt and pepper and set aside. Chop 3 hard- 
boiled eggs, I beet, a tablespoonful of capers, 2 
pickles, I onion, and 3 anchovies, with salt and 
parsley. Cover the eels with this, tie in a cloth, 
and cook for ^ hour in half water and half vinegar 
and a bayleaf. Drain, untie, and put in a mould 
with sufficient melted aspic jelly and turn out on a 
dish, with mayonnaise, when cold. 

51 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

RAGOUT OF EELS. (Normandy.) 

Cut up and fry in butter \y^ pounds of eels, 
add I glass of white wine or cider, i tablespoonful 
of mushroom ketchup, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. 
After ID minutes add ^ pint of white stock, 6 
mushrooms, 12 oysters, 6 forcemeat balls (made of 
fish, chicken, or veal), and 6 shrimps, all cooked. 
Stir, and add the yolks of 1 eggs and serve at once. 

SALT COD (as cooked on the coast of Spain). 

Soak and parboil 2 pounds of cod. Serve with a 
sauce of tomatoes, onions, green peppers, olive oil 
and stock, in proper proportions, with herbs and 
seasoning, then arrange with a border of fried 
potatoes. 

COD AND OYSTER PIE. (England.) 

Flake and remove the bones from cold cooked 
fresh fish, add to each cupful 6 oysters, yi cup 
of stock, mixed with a tablespoonful of oyster 
juice. Season to taste, pour into a dish and bake, 
with a thin crust of paste on top, or a layer of 
mashed potatoes. 

FORCEMEAT FOR FILLING FISH CUTLETS. (Paris.) 

Chop finely, 2 shrimps, 6 oysters, i tablespoon- 
ful of parsley, 6 small mushrooms, and the rind of 

52 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

a lemon. Add i cup of bread-crumbs, a little nut- 
meg, salt, pepper, and the yolk of an egg. Beat 
and stir well. If not needed at once, it may be 
put on ice for a day or two, but it is better made 
fresh. 

FRENCH PANNED OYSTERS. 

Drain fifty oysters, add i ounces of butter, mixed 
in a pan or casserole with 2 teaspoonfuls of flour 
and I teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Stir, blend, 
and season. When the oysters begin to curl, add 
the yolks of 2 eggs and, still stirring, pour over 
slices of toast. 

SAUCE FOR CUTLETS, CROQUETTES, OR FISH. 

Beat 2 eggs with salt, pepper, and the juice of a 
lemon. Add it to ^ pint of boiling milk, stir in 
a pan of hot water until it thickens, adding i table- 
spoonful of parsley. This is a very useful and 
economical recipe. 

DUTCH SAUCE. 

This is the same as above, made richer. Stir 
and blend over the fire ^ pint of melted butter 
and the yolks of four eggs, set in another pan, like 
a custard. Do not boil, merely keep hot, or it will 
curdle. Add salt, pepper, and 2 tablespoonfuls of 
lemon juice and a teaspoonful of chopped pars- 
ley and a tiny pinch of nutmeg. 

53 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

BECHAMEL SAUCE. (Rich.) 

Blend 2 ounces of butter with 1^ ounces of 
flour, add i pint of white stock (preferably chicken), 
and 6 chopped mushrooms. Stir for 20 minutes, 
add yi pint of hot cream and the juice of a lemon, 
strain it and cook 5 minutes longer. Plain. Chop 
I carrot, i piece of celery, i small onion, i bay- 
leaf, salt, and pepper, and cook with 2 ounces of 
butter and ^ ounce of flour, stirring constantly. 
Add I pint of very rich milk and cook 10 minutes 
longer ; strain for use. Bechamel sauce is served 
with chicken or delicate entrees ; it has no equal 
for the purpose for which it was invented over a 
century ago. 

TOMATO SAUCE (used for rich entries and braised dishes). 

Cook I ounce of butter with i ounce of chopped 
ham, I onion, i carrot, some parsley and a bay- 
leaf and a clove. Chop the onion and carrot. 
Cook for 5 minutes, then add ^ cup of consomme 
or melted beef extract, i cup of stewed tomatoes or 
3 fresh ones, sliced, a tablespoonful of butter and 
flour, mixed ; season to taste. Stir and cook 20 
minutes, then press through a sieve. 

VALENCIA SAUCE (for chicken or sweetbreads). 

Chop I truflie, 3 mushrooms, and 3 slices of 
tongue, very finely ; mix with 3 tablespoonfuls of 

54 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

boiled rice and a tablespoonful of stock. Stir and 
cook for lo minutes, add ^ cup of stewed toma- 
toes and a tablespoonful of grated cheese. Cook 
until smooth and pour around or underneath the 
chicken, etc. 

TARTARE SAUCE. 

Make ^ pint of good mayonnaise with the yolk 
of a raw egg and the yolk of a hard-boiled one, 
adding a teaspoonful of French mustard, a tea- 
spoonful of lemon juice and a tablespoonful of 
tarragon vinegar, after first blending y^ pint of 
olive oil with the two eggs. Add salt and pepper, 
a tablespoonful of chopped capers, the same of 
chopped chives, and half as much parsley and 
gherkins. These must all be minced and pounded 
as fine as possible. Stir well and press through a 
sieve. Serve with jellied fish, fried fish, or salads. 

PRINCE OF WALES' SAUCE. (For Fish.) 

Cook a handful of burnet, chervil, and parsley 
and tarragon leaves, in boiling water for five 
minutes. Drain and chop very fine, with 2 boned 
anchovies, yolks of i hard-boiled eggs, a pinch of 
mustard, and the yolk of a raw egg. Pound these 
to a paste, and add }{ pint of pure olive oil and a 
tablespoonful of lemon juice. Strain for use. 

55 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

CHERRY SAUCE. (Germany. For pork or game.) 

Wash, Stone, and set aside i pound of ripe red 
cherries. Simmer the kernels, with water to cover, 
15 minutes. Then strain the water, add to it the 
cherries, i pint of water, 4 cloves, i glass of claret, 
I slice of stale bread, and enough sugar. Cook 
half an hour, press through a sieve, and re-boil it 
until rather thick. Serve hot. 

GARLIC SAUCE. (Provence.) 

The flavor is mild, like almonds, and dear to 
epicures, when the garlic is boiled in 4 waters, 
drained, chopped, mixed with sufficient white stock. 

GOOSEBERRY SAUCE. (England. For mackerel.) 

Trim and mash a pound of green gooseberries, 
add sugar to flavor, a spoonful of cornstarch, and 
the juice of a lemon. Cook 10 minutes, add a 
pinch of cinnamon and a spoonful of butter, sim- 
mer until thick, and press through a sieve. 

ORANGE SAUCE. (Spanish. For game.) 

Parboil the outer yellow rind of 2 large oranges. 
Drain these, cut into thin strips, and add the juice 
and a glass of port wine and Yt. cup of white stock. 
Cook ten minutes, strain, and then add salt and 
pepper, if desired. Serve, separately, in a bowl. 

S6 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 



MONTPELLIER BUTTER (for garnishing cold fish, jellies, 
or filling sandwiches). 

Mix Yi pound of parsley, tarragon, watercress, 
and chives, in equal parts. Boil them one minute 
in hot water, drain and chop them very fine, with 
the yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs, 3 anchovies, free 
from skin and bones, i tablespoonful each of capers 
and gherkins, chopped fine, a little onion juice, 
salt, and pepper. Pound these and add ^ pound 
of fresh butter, 1 tablespoonfuls of olive oil, and i 
tablespoonful of lemon juice. Mix all well and press 
through a sieve. Set on ice until needed. It is 
usually pressed through a pastry tube, to form 
roses, along the edge of the dish, or on top of 
the fish. 



ESSENCE OF HAM (used for flavoring sauces). 

This will keep some time on ice. Chop 3 
pounds of lean ham with 4 onions, 1 carrots, 2 
parsnips, 4 mushrooms (or a tablespoonful of 
mushroom catchup), and add i ounce of butter, 3 
truffles, I cup of veal stock, i clove, and some 
thyme and parsley. Stir, cover very closely, and 
simmer i hour. Strain it through a fine sieve. 
A tablespoonful will flavor a pint of sauce or as 
much soup. 

57 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 



FAMILY CULLIS. (Old English recipe for foundation 
of sauces.) 

Blend i tablespoonful each of flour and butter, 
add I cup of good consomme, a glass of white 
wine, some parsley, thyme, a bayleaf, and a bit of 
mace, also 3 mushrooms, salt, and pepper. Cook, 
covered, for ^ hour. Strain through a sieve. Will 
keep some time on ice, and useful for adding 
flavor to entrees or sauces. 

CHIPOLATA GARNISH. (A Spanish recipe.) 

In Spain chicken or sweetbread or any entree is 
rendered attractive by the addition of Chipolata. 

Cut up into neat pieces equal parts of carrots, 
chestnuts (parboiled and free from shell), mush- 
rooms, turnips, and small sausages. Cover with 
consomme and cook until tender, adding a spoon- 
ful of sherry, pepper, and salt. 

CARAMEL (for coloring soups). 

French cooks keep a bottle of this on hand to 
use for gravies and soups which are too pale. 

Stir y^ pound of sugar and a tablespoonful of 
water constantly over the fire until a rich brown, 
being very careful not to let it burn. Add i cup 
of water and a little salt and cook 10 minutes 
longer. Cool and strain it and bottle tightly in 

58 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

small bottles. Will keep a year, if corked, and in 
a cool place. 

GREEN. (Coloring for Desserts.) 

Red coloring may be made with cranberries, and 
yellow, with saffron. Clean and scald and drain 
and pound a quart of spinach. Press through a 
sieve, add }( as much sugar, and boil it with the 
juice, yi an hour. 

FRENCH AROMATIC SEASONING. 

Mix ^ ounce each of thyme, bayleaves, and 
laurel, sweet marjoram, and rosemary. Dry these 
in the oven, and reduce to powder. Add yi ounce 
each of powdered nutmeg and cloves, a teaspoon- 
ful of black pepper, and as much salt. When all 
are well mixed, sift, and put into bottles closely 
corked, for use. A pinch of this improves the 
flavor of soups, entrees, sauces, etc., when fresh 
herbs are not at hand. 

FRENCH SEASONING. (Another recipe.) 

Dry and pound together i^ ounces of thyme, 
I ounce of bayleaves, the same of sweet basil and 
summer savory, and also of sweet marjoram. Add 
a teaspoonful each of pepper and salt, i ounce of 
cloves, I nutmeg, and y^ ounce of mace, rubbed 
with the rind of a lemon and a clove of garlic. 
Dry in the oven, and strain and bottle for use. 

59 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

TARRAGON VINEGAR. 

This adjunct to flavoring sauces and salads can 
be had at the grocery stores, about thirty-five 
cents a pint bottle. But it is easily made at home 
if you buy tarragon plants from a large florist, 
and by planting them in the garden, or in boxes, 
the fresh leaves will be useful all summer, so that 
in the fall, before frost, what is left can be made 
into vinegar. This plan gives a constant supply 
for a year. 

Gather the leaves on a dry day, wash them to 
remove insects, dry them, and after bruising them, 
adding about a pint to a quart of wine vinegar, 
add a tablespoonful each of chopped parsley and 
chives. Infuse for a week, strain it, and bottle 
closely. 

ENGLISH RECIPE FOR FRYING FISH. 

Wash the fish, dry it well, dust it thickly with 
flour. Beat an egg light, dip the fish carefully, 
then dip it in bread-crumbs. Fry in a deep pan, 
in butter, olive oil, or suet, very hot. 

JEWISH RECIPE FOR FRYING FISH. (Prague.) 

Mix 6 ounces of flour, a pinch of salt, yolk of 
one egg, and i ounce of olive oil, well together, 
add I gill of tepid water, set aside yi hour in a 

60 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

cool place. Beat in the white of the egg, which 
has been beaten stiff, dip each fish in this, then 
in bread-crumbs, and fry in oil or fat, very hot. 
The Jews do not use butter for frying, as their 
religious laws forbid it, but they are, the world 
over, past masters of the art of frying, and es- 
pecially in the older cities of Europe, where they 
have kept to the ancient modes of living. 



POACHED EGGS. (Normandy.) 

Fry an onion, ^ clove of garlic, — which may 
be omitted, — some parsley, thyme, and a bayleaf, 
in I ounce of butter. Add ^ pint of red wine 
(or cider), the same of consomme, or white stock, 
and cook until well blended. Add salt and pep- 
per, strain it, and pour around 6 eggs, poached in 
vinegar and water, drained, and laid on toast, pre- 
viously dipped in hot water to soften it. Garnish 
with parsley. 

FRIED EGGS. (Marseilles.) 

Fry four very fresh eggs in olive oil, drain 
them, add to the oil in the pan ^ cup of con- 
somme, y^ a green pepper, chopped and free 
from seeds, and 6 mushrooms. Cook this care- 
fully, and pour around the eggs. 

6i 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

EGGS. (Piedmont style.) 

Chop 4 anchovies, and dissolve them, free from 
bones and skin, in J^ pint of good stock, add the 
yolks of 6 eggs and the beaten whites of 2, salt 
and pepper and parsley. Stir over the fire until 
smooth, pour over some slices of toast which have 
been laid in a dish, sprinkle some grated cheese 
over all, and bake ten minutes in a hot oven. 

EGGS (as cooked in Sienna). 

Boil and slice 6 eggs, put them in a dish, 
sprinkle with grated cheese, then eggs, so on, 
until all the eggs are used, with ^ a pint of good 
white stock over all, and some cheese and bread- 
crumbs on top. Bake lo minutes, and serve in 
the dish. 

EGGS (as cooked in Malta). 

Mix on the fire i cup of white stock, i table- 
spoonful of grated ham, i ounce of butter, i ounce 
of grated cheese, juice of a lemon, salt, pepper, 
parsley, nutmeg, and ^ cup of stewed tomatoes. 
Stir 20 minutes, then strain it over a dish con- 
taining 6 hard-boiled and sliced eggs. Cover with 
bread-crumbs and cheese, and bake in a hot 
oven. 

62 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

EGGS. (Carmelite Convent recipe.) 

Butter a dish, pour into it a puree of asparagus 
tips, parboiled with herbs and seasoning, drained, 
mixed with a cup of cream, or white broth, and 
pressed through a sieve. Arrange this evenly, 
and break over it carefully four or more fresh 
eggs. Bake until the eggs are firm. This can 
also be made with a foundation, or mattress of 
spinach, or any other vegetable. 

EGGS (A la Gruy^re). 

Melt ^ pound of grated Gruyere cheese with 
a teaspoonful of butter, i cup of chicken broth, 
some chopped onion and parsley, nutmeg, and 
salt. When well blended, add four well-beaten 
eggs, stir until firm, and serve on toast. 

FONDUE. (Switzerland.) 

Take as many eggs as there are people, add ^ 
of their weight in grated cheese, and ^ their 
weight in butter. Beat the eggs, white and yolks, 
together, add the cheese and butter, salt and pep- 
per. Cook until it is thick, and pour into a deep 
dish. Add parsley if desired. 

POACHED EGGS. (Roumania and Turkey.) 

Make a puree of i pound of cooked and chopped 
calves' liver, i cup or less of stock, parsley, pepper, 

63 



With a Saucepan oyer the Sea 

■ © 

and salt. Put this through a sieve, arrange on a 
di^%, as a bed for 6 poached eggs, and pour around 
a sauce made of stock, flavored with capers or 
tarragon vinegar. 

EGGS (as cooked in Nuremberg), 

Peel 4 hard-boiled eggs, dip them in batter, fry- 
brown, dip and fry again, until twice the usual 
size. Serve with a sauce of tomatoes or on a bed 
of spinach, cooked and made into a paste. 

FRIED EGGS (as cooked in Scotland). 

Make a forcemeat of ^ cup of milk and equal 
parts of bread-crumbs and chopped ham, the yolk 
of an egg, and a little French mustard. Dip fried 
eggs In this, then fry again, and serve with a salad 
of watercress. 

EGGS (as cooked in Lyons). 

Peel and slice 6 hard-boiled eggs. Make a 
sauce of i large white onions, chopped fine, i 
ounce of butter, add yi pint of stock, parsley and 
seasoning. Pour this over the eggs, in a border 
of fried potatoes. 

FRIED EGGS. (Alsace-Lorraine.) 

Wash and slice neatly i large cooked carrot ; 
add I gill of white stock, a spoonful of butter, 

64 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

12 roasted and shelled chestnuts, and 2 sausages, 
sliced. Stir and cook 20 minutes, add salt, pej^ per, 
and a spoonful of sherry. Pour over the 10 fried 
eggs, with the vegetables around. 

% SPANISH OMELETTE. 

Beat the whites and yolks of 6 eggs separately, 
and add salt, pepper, yi tablespoonful of flour 
mixed with as much milk ; pour into a buttered 
pan and cook till firm. Before folding it on a 
plate pour between the following sauce, i bay- 
leaf, I onion, some parsley, i green pepper, free 
from seeds, 4 fresh mushrooms, a tablespoonful of 
ham, all chopped fine, and i lamb's kidney, sliced. 
Fry these in butter or olive oil, add 3 tomatoes, 
skinned, and i cup of consomme. Cook these 3^ 
an hour before pouring in the omelette. 



FRENCH OMELETTE. 

Beat the whites of 5 eggs very stiff and set 
aside in a cool place. Beat the yolks well with 
salt, pepper, butter the size of a walnut, 2 table- 
spoonfuls of cream, a little nutmeg, ^ spoonful 
of onion juice, and i spoonful of chopped parsley. 
Add these lightly to the whites and cook in a hot, 
buttered pan. This makes a very tender, delicate 
omelette. 

s 65 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

CRUMB OMELETTE. (A German recipe.) 

Beat the whites and yolks of 6 eggs separately, 
adding to the yolks i cup of cream blended with 
a tablespoonful of cornstarch and a cup of bread- 
crumbs. Stir, season with salt, pepper, and parsley 
and a little chopped onion, pour into a buttered 
pan and cook until it is brown before folding. 
Can be served with a puree of spinach or any 
vegetable made into a cream, or it can be made 
as an ordinary omelette, the bread being cut into 
dice and fried before adding, in the centre. 



66 



Chapter Three — Meats and 'Entrees 

ROAST LAMB (as cooked in Brittany). 

Bone and stuff a fine leg of lamb, with a mixture 
of bread-crumbs, parsley, sweet marjoram, onion, 
and yolk, of an egg. Cook it for i ^ hours, prick- 
ing the skin first and rubbing it with garlic. Baste 
often with the drippings and one cup of stock 
added. Make a puree of i pint of boiled Lima 
beans, mashed with butter, seasoning, and white 
stock, pressed through a sieve. Put this on the 
dish, place the meat over it and pour the gravy, 
reduced and skimmed of fat, over all. 

BRAISED SADDLE OF LAMB. (Normandy.) 

Bone a saddle of lamb and fill it with a force- 
meat of bread-crumbs, onion, herbs, butter, ^%^^ 
and yi pound of chopped veal. Roll it, tie it, 
and lard the upper side with thin strips of pork. 
Put it in a pan with i pint of white stock, 2 onions, 
I carrot, some celery, parsley, and thyme. Cover 
with a tight lid and let it cook in the oven for i^ 
hours. Let it cool in the sauce, remove the fat 
from the latter, and reduce it by re-boiling. Dip 
the meat in some of the sauce and then in bread- 

67 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

crumbs, and brown it in the oven. Pour the sauce 
around, after straining it, and arrange a border of 
stuffed tomatoes or spinach or baked onions or 
potatoes, whichever is most convenient. 

LEG OF MUTTON. (Gascony style.) 

The province of Gascony, in the south of 
France, is renowned for good cooking, just as 
Normandy is in the north. 

Boil 2 cloves of garlic in several waters, to re- 
move the crude taste, chop them with 6 boned 
anchovies, and rub the mixture into sHts cut across 
the skin of a nice leg of mutton. Dredge the 
surface closely with bread-crumbs, put into a pan 
holding ^ pint of consomme and bake it 2 
hours, basting it often with the sauce. Serve with 
a border of vegetables, or spaghetti, previously 
cooked and seasoned. The anchovies and garlic 
give a peculiar flavor much esteemed by those who 
like bourgeois cookery. 

ROAST VEAL. (Italian method.) 

Bone, stuff, and tie a nice loin of veal, put it in 
a pan with 2 ounces of butter, ^ cup of water, and 
salt and pepper, then roast it 2 hours, basting often. 
Drain it, dip it in half a cup of white stock mixed 
with the yolk of an egg and some parsley. Dust 

68 




LEG OF MUTTON, GASCONY 
{See page 68) 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

it thickly with bread-crumbs and grated cheese, and 
bake it or brown it with a salamander. Serve with 
a border of potato croquettes. 

BREAST OF VEAL. (A German recipe.) 

Cut into pieces a fine breast of veal, add salt, 
pepper, 2 onions, and 2 carrots, sliced, some parsley, 
thyme, and a bayleaf. Add also sufficient water to 
cover, and cook, with a lid on the pan, i hour. 
Take out the veal, remove the bones from each 
piece, and dip it in butter and bread-crumbs. Broil 
these cutlets, and when brown, serve with a sauce 
of the gravy, strained and seasoned with a table- 
spoonful of vinegar and two tablespoonfuls of 
pickled and chopped gherkins. 

ROAST LOIN OF PORK. (Germany.) 

Boil the pork until tender, then roast it in the 
oven with 3 onions, 3 carrots, sliced thin, parsley, 
thyme, and a clove. Baste with i cup of hot water 
or stock, and after half an hour strain and skim 
the gravy and reduce it by rapid boiling until 
there is barely enough to coat the surface of the 
meat. Dust it all over thickly with crumbs, and 
sprinkle a tiny bit of cinnamon here and there. 
Bake until brown and serve with cherry sauce. 
(See recipe.) 

69 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

ROAST PIG. (England.) 

Clean and singe a fat young pig. Stuff it with 
a forcemeat of bread, i pounds of pork and 2 
pounds of veal, sage, thyme, lemon-peel, some 
parsley, onion, salt, pepper, and mace, mixed with 
the yolk of an egg. Sew up the slit and set the 
pig on its feet, basting it with butter, until done. 

ROAST GOOSE. (England, Michaelmas Day.) 

Singe and clean a fat goose, stuff it with the 
liver chopped fine, i cup or more of bread-crumbs, 
1 ounces suet, lemon peel, nutmeg, and onion, 
sage, parsley, salt, pepper, and i tablespoonfuls of 
cream. Baste it with butter, dredge it with flour 
till brown, and serve with apple sauce. 

ROAST GOOSE (as cooked at Aries, Southern France). 

Singe, clean, and truss a young .fat goose. Stuff 
it with 4 onions, parboiled, 4 ounces of bread 
soaked in milk, 3 ounces butter, a tablespoonful 
of parsley, a little nutmeg grated, and 4 ounces of 
chestnuts, all chopped fine and well mixed. Add 
salt and pepper. The chestnuts must be, of 
course, roasted, blanched, and cut up. Put the 
goose in a pan with i carrot, some celery, parsley, 
sweet marjoram, i onion, and a clove. Braise 
it, or cook, closely covered, in its own steam, for 

70 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

2 hours. Take it out, strain, skim, and reduce the 
sauce and mix it with a cup of stewed and strained 
tomatoes. Heat it again and pour around the 
goose. 

FILLET OF BEEF, MIGNONNE. (Paris.) 

Broil a fine fillet of beef, dusting it first with salt, 
pepper, onion juice, and olive oil. When brown, 
pour around a sauce made of yi cup of cream 
whipped stiff, with 2 tablespoonfuls of grated 
horse-radish, pepper, and salt. Garnish with sliced 
and fried bananas. 

BROILED STEAK. (English chop-house recipe.) 

Mix I tablespoonful of olive oil, a teaspoonful 
of salt, and a pinch of pepper. Rub this over the 
steak and set it aside with the sauce on it for 
2 hours, in a cold place. Drain it, put it on a 
broiler, and sear it quickly, then cook it slowly, 
putting a few ashes over the hot fire, for about 
lo minutes. When the meat looks puffy, but 
being careful to lose none of the juice, remove to 
a hot dish and place a bit of butter on top. 
Garnish with parsley. 

HENRY IV.'S RECIPE FOR BOILED CHICKEN. 

Henry the Fourth was that beloved king of 
France who said that he wanted the poor man to 

71 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

have a fowl in a casserole every Sunday — since 
the peasants were terribly poor and taxed before 
that time. He was a jolly fellow and came from 
a part of France famous for good cooking. 

Clean a fat hen, singe it, and then chop the 
liver with i cup of bread-crumbs or more, if need- 
ful, ^ pound of ham, i/^ cup of milk, 6 chest- 
nuts and 6 truffles, nutmeg, parsley, thyme, sweet 
marjoram, and a grating of garlic or onion juice. 
Add the yolks of two eggs. Now fill the belly, 
the crop, and the cavities of the legs and wings, 
which must be boned and all tied firmly. Brown 
it in butter, add i carrots, i onions, sliced, ^ cup 
of rice, and a pint of water. Cover very closely 
and simmer for i hour. Serve with the sauce 
poured around or in the same dish in which it was 
cooked. Any one who has tried this will admit 
that it has a superior flavor. 

CHICKEN ROYAL (invented for one of the early queens 
of France). 

Bone a large fat chicken or a capon, fill it with 
a forcemeat of bread, herbs, mushrooms, eggs, and 
onion, seasoned and "chopped. Truss it, lard it 
with bacon, and cover it with oiled paper. Bake 
in a pint of consomme, basting often. "When 
tender, take off the paper, let it brown, reduce 

72 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

and strain the sauce, and serve with a puree of 
chestnuts, boiled, shelled, pounded, flavored with 
stock, and strained. 

CHICKEN A LA MARENGO (invented for Napoleon, 
the night of the battle). 

Joint and fry a tender chicken in 4 spoonfuls of 
olive oil, with three shallots, a clove of garlic, a 
bayleaf, some parsley, and thyme. When brown, 
take out and keep warm. Add to the oil i pint 
of white stock and the yolk of an egg. Stir until 
thick, strain, and poiir over the chicken. Serve 
with a border of poached eggs, on strips of 
toast. 

ROAST CHICKEN. (Paris.) 

Clean, stuff, and roast a fine fowl, larding it 
with bits of bacon, and basting with i cup of con- 
somme. Strain the sauce, add i onion, some 
parsley, and the livers, chopped fine, a cup of 
bread-crumbs and the juice of an orange. Boil, 
strain again, and serve with a salad of watercress. 

CHICKEN (as cooked in Monte Carlo), 

Melt 2 tablespoonfuls of butter in an earthen 
dish or casserole with i carrot, 3 onions, sliced, 2 
bayleaves, salt, pepper, and some thyme. Add a 

73 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

young fat fowl, cut into joints, and let it get brown. 
Then add i pint of consomme and cover, air tight ; 
cook ^ of an hour ; it must simmer all that time. 
If the fowl is old, it will take longer to cook it. 
Add 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry, a dozen potato 
balls fried in butter, a dozen button mushrooms, 
and some chopped parsley. Let it cook lo minutes 
more, and serve in the same dish, or the charm of 
it will be lost. 



FRIED CHICKEN {as cooked in Vienna). 

Clean and cut up a fat chicken. Cover it for 
3 hours with a mixture of lemon juice and olive 
oil, parsley, a bayleaf, and seasoning. Drain, dip 
each piece in egg and bread-crumbs, and fry brown. 
Mix I cup of white stock with i cup of rich milk, 
the yolk of an egg, and lo small mushrooms. 
Season and cook carefully and pour around the 
chicken, first adding a little chopped parsley and 
the juice of a lemon to the sauce. 

CHICKEN (as cooked in Spain and Portugal). 

Clean and cut up a fat fowl, fry it in 2 ounces 
of butter with i ounce of ham and an onion, 
chopped fine. Add i quart of consomme, i pint 
of stewed tomatoes, 2 dozen bits of ochra, i cup 

74 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

of rice, and i green pepper, free from seeds and 
sliced. Season and cook, closely covered, for lyi 
hours. 

CHICKEN, STEWED (as cooked in Hungary). 

Clean and truss a fat fowl ; fill it with bread- 
crumbs, onion, herbs, and yolk of an egg. Tie 
the breast with slices of lemon and salt pork, then 
wrap in oiled paper. Add i onion, i clove, and 
some parsley and i cup of white stock, or enough 
to cover it. Cook, covered, i hour. Strain the 
sauce, add i cup of hot cream, a pinch of paprika, 
some butter, the yolk of an egg, and some parsley. 
Pour around the chicken and serve with rice. 

FRIED CHICKEN (as cooked in Florence). 

Cut up a fat fowl and parboil it in i pint of 
white stock. Drain it, reduce the stock, and add 
the yolks of i eggs and the juice of a lemon, and 
strain it. Dip the chicken in the sauce, then in 
crumbs and grated cheese, and fry brown. Serve 
the rest of the sauce in a bowl. 

CHICKEN A LA CRECI. (Flanders.) 

Chop y^ pound of bacon, fry it with 12 tiny 
white onions, 12 button mushrooms, 1 carrots, and 
6 chestnuts ; cut into dice in 2 ounces butter. Add 
a large chicken, which has been cut up and cooked 

75 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

for Y2 hour in some broth. Add also salt and 
pepper, a blade of mace, and a glass of white wine 
or sherry. Cook, covered, for 40 minutes and 
serve hot, 

CHICKEN EN MATELOTE. (Normandy.) 

Joint a nice chicken and fry it in butter. Add 
6 small onions and a carrot, sliced, 6 small mush- 
rooms and 6 parsnips, cut into dice, parsley, thyme, 
sweet marjoram, salt, and enough stock to cover. 
Simmer in a closed pot for ^ hour. Strain the 
sauce and add to it i anchovy, cut up, i teaspoon- 
ful of capers, and i glass of claret. Return it to 
the fowl, cook 20 minutes longer, and serve with 
slices of toast. 

CHICKEN CUTLETS. (A recipe of Provence.) 

Chop very fine the meat of a fowl, to make 1 
cupfuls ; it must be cooked first. Add 2 ounces 
of butter, salt, pepper, and yi cup of rich milk or 
cream. Divide into balls, flatten like a chop, dip 
in egg or bread-crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Arrange 
on a dish, with tomato sauce. 

CUTLETS OF CHICKEN (invented for one of the French 
monarchs). 

Cut up the meat of ^ a chicken, — that cooked 
in the soup will answer best, — add 6 mushrooms, 

76 




CANNELONS AND BATONS DE JAKOB, MARSEILLES 
(See pages 77 and l6y) 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

and Y2 ounce cooked and chopped beef tongue. 
Fry these in 1 ounces of butter, with 1 teaspoon- 
fuls of chopped onion and i ounce of flour. Add, 
next, I pint of chicken broth, and cook until a 
smooth paste, stirring often. Add yolks of 1 
eggs, juice of a lemon, some parsley, and salt. If 
too thin, pour off, by straining, half the sauce, and 
let it harden in a pan. Mould into cutlets and 
dip each in the sauce, then in crumbs. Fry in 
butter or lard and serve in a circle, with the sauce 
diluted with ^ cup of boiling milk. 



CANNELONS OF CHICKEN. (Marseilles.) 

This is a combination of croquette and ravioli, 
which is a popular dish in Italy. As we go south 
in France, approaching Spain or Italy, we find 
borrowed traits of cookery. 

Chop fine i cup of cooked chicken, mix with a 
spoonful each of flour and butter, 1 spoonfuls of 
cream, the yolk of an egg, salt, and pepper, and 
some parsley. Make into a thick paste. Roll out 
some fine puff paste very thin ; cut it into squares 
of four inches, and filling with the above, fold and 
pinch the edges. Fry or bake them until a light 
brown. Drain, serve in a pile, with sauce or 
parsley. 

77 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 



CANNELONS. (Another recipe.) 

Chop equal parts of cooked chicken and tongue 
with a spoonful of chopped ham, some cream, egg, 
butter, and herbs, as before. Moisten with suf- 
ficient sauce or stock. Roll puff paste very thin, 
spread evenly with the mixture, and roll like a 
jelly cake. Lay these on a baking dish, glaze 
them with yolk of egg, and bake until brown. 
Serve in same dish. 

TRUFFLED CAPON (served in France, Xmas Day). 

Singe, clean, and stuff a fine fat fowl with a 
forcemeat of i pound of truffles, sliced, 2 onions, 
salt, pepper, a bayleaf, some thyme and a bit of 
garlic, and i pounds of cooked and chopped 
chestnuts, peeled and boiled in stock. Lard it 
with bacon and roast it; serve with a cream sauce 
in which mushrooms and oysters are cooked. An 
elegant affair but costly. 

TURKEY MARQUISE. (Paris.) 

Cut the white meat of a boiled turkey into 
strips 2 by 4 inches. Dip each in a forcemeat, 
covering well, made of 6 ounces of bread-crumbs 
soaked in milk, 4 ounces of tongue, and 6 oysters, 
cut fine ; add 3 tablespoonfuls of white stock,, 

78 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

pepper, salt, and 2 eggs. This must be well 
beaten, seasoned, and pressed through a sieve. 
Place in a buttered pan and bake lo minutes until 
brown. Arrange carefully on a dish, in a circle, and 
in the centre pour some Brussels sprouts cooked 
in white sauce and some sauce poured over. 
Around the edge arrange a puree of chestnut, and 
let it steam, with a plate over all, 20 minutes. 
Serve in the same dish. 

GALANTINE OF TURKEY. (Montpellier.) 

Montpellier is a French town known far and 
wide for its ways of cooking cold meat or game in 
jelly or salad, served in a mould and often gar- 
nished, with mayonnaise or Tartare sauce. 

Clean, bone, and stuff a turkey with a force- 
meat of equal parts bread, veal, ham, and tongue, 
adding herbs, onion, yolks of eggs. Tie the fowl 
in a cloth and cook it for four hours in sufficient 
stock to cover it. Let it cool, put in a mould with 
melted aspic jelly, decorating it with sliced truffles, 
hard-boiled eggs sliced, and capers. When cold 
and firm, turn out and serve in slices. 

STEWED CHICKEN. (Germany.) 

Clean and cut up a fowl, cook it gently in i^ 
pints of white broth until tender. Take out the 

79 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

chicken, skim and strain and reduce the sauce by 
rapid boiling, add i ounce of chopped almonds, 
pounded, in ^ pint of milk, seasoned with salt, 
pepper, and nutmeg, pour over the chicken. Serve 
with a border of boiled rice. 

CREAM OF CHICKEN WITH POACHED EGGS. (An 
old convent recipe and used still in provincial France as a 
Lenten breakfast dish.) 

Mince and pound the best part of a cooked 
fowl, add salt and pepper, and enough milk or 
white stock to make a paste when pressed 
through a sieve. Cook and stir over the fire, 
pour it on a dish and, arrange 6 poached eggs, 
with a border of parsley, on top. 

KIDNEY AND MUSHROOMS. (France.) 

Soak, parboil, and cut up a kidney, fry it in i 
ounces of butter or soup fat, add salt, pepper, an 
onion, chopped, and \i button mushrooms, some 
parsley, and ^ pint of consomme, also a tablespoon- 
ful of white wine or sherry. Cook and stir lo 
minutes, and serve on toast. 

KIDNEY AND OYSTER PUDDING. (England.) 

Clean, parboil, and slice 4 lamb's kidneys, add 
I pint of oysters and their juice, some butter, salt, 

80 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

pepper, and parsley. Cook and stir until tender, 
then make a batter as for pudding, roll it out and 
cover a bowl, lining it first with this, and filling 
with the oysters and kidney. Tie a cloth over all, 
and boil it about an hour, drain it, and serve with 
white sauce. Or the batter can be boiled, then 
slit open and filled with the oysters, etc. This 
way makes the kidneys and oysters more tender. 
Add the yolk of an egg to the gravy before pouring 
it in. 

CASPACHO. (A national dish of Spain.) 

Mince a large white onion, add i fine cucumber 
sliced, and 3 tomatoes cut up. Put in layers in a 
bowl, dust with salt, pepper, parsley, and bread- 
crumbs, adding oil and vinegar as for salad. 
There must be plenty of the latter, and the whole 
served ice-cold. This is the most popular sum- 
mer dish in Spain. 

BACALAO. (Spain.) 

Soak and parboil i pound of salt cod, mix it, in 
flakes, with ^ pint of tomato sauce, made of 
stewed tomatoes, an onion chopped fine and fried 
in a tablespoonful of olive oil, a pinch of cinna- 
mon, salt, and pepper. Bake this in an earthen 
dish with slices of bread and butter over the top. 
6 81 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

COULIBAC. (Russia.) 

Make a paste as for baba pudding or Savarin, 
and roll it very thin. Cut into a large square, fill 
it with a forcemeat of veal, rice, eggs, herbs, butter, 
stock, and mushrooms, and roll it up like jelly cake. 
Dust the top with crumbs, and bake it i hour. 
Serve with hot wine sauce, in slices. 

BUONBOCCONI. (Genoa.) 

Steep I pound of beef marrow, drain, chop, and 
pound it, and press through a sieve. Add 5 ounces 
of chopped candied peel, and citron, mixed ; beat 
these with 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, and the zest 
of an orange, and the yolks of 1 eggs. Put a 
spoonful between two circles of puff paste, and 
bake them in a hot oven. Serve in a mound, with 
a good sauce. 

DOLMAS. (Greece and Turkey.) 

Chop fine a sufficient quantity of cold cooked 
lamb or mutton, add an equal amount of boiled 
rice, season to taste, and add as much milk or white 
stock, blended with the yolk of an egg, to make a 
thick paste. Fill lettuce leaves with this, roll them 
up and cook in water or a little stock for ^ hour. 
Drain them, arrange on a dish, and pour a sauce 

82 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

over them of milk, yolk of egg, parsley, and the 
juice of a lemon. 

QUEEN'S TIDBITS. (France.) 

Make a good pufF paste, roll it very thin, cut 
into circles and put two together with a filling as for 
chicken croquettes, and bake in a hot oven. Sweet- 
breads or mushrooms, mixed with stock, may be 
used instead of chicken. These are dainty morsels, 
but very rich fare. 

MACEDOINE IN ASPIC. (Normandy.) 

Make i quart of good aspic jelly, and while yet 
liquid, line a fancy mould with a part of it. Fill 
the centre with a pretty arrangement of equal 
parts of cooked and sliced sweetbreads, tongue, 
liver, mushrooms, truffles, and sausage. Serve 
cold, turned out on a dish, with mayonnaise 
dressing. The more meats used, the better. 

BRAISED QUAILS. (Maison d'or, Paris.) 

Pick, clean, and split 6 quails. Roast them for 
4 minutes, then put them in a casserole with i 
carrot, and i onion, sliced, i ounce of butter, 
parsley, thyme, a bayleaf, and 3 sliced green 
peppers, freed from seeds. Stir for 5 minutes, 
then add, over the fire, i pint of tomato sauce, yi 

83 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

glass of sherry, and 3 tablespoonfuls of mushroom 
ketchup or sauce. Cover and cook for 10 min- 
utes more in the oven, then serve in the casserole. 

KIDNEY STEW. (Baden-Baden.) 

Soak, parboil, and slice a fine calf's kidney. 
Fry it in 1 ounces of butter or dripping, adding 
salt, pepper, and 2 tablespoonfuls each of chopped 
truffles and mushrooms, and i tablespoonful of 
sherry, also parsley. Cook for 10 minutes more, 
serve with a border of fritters made according to 
recipe given elsewhere. 

LAMB CHOPS. (Monte Carlo.) 

Trim 8 thinly cut chops from the leg, add some 
parsley, mace, a piece of butter, and sufficient milk 
to cover and simmer, in a closed pan, for i hour. 
Drain the chops, dip each in bread-crumbs and 
yolk of egg, and fry in butter. Thicken the milk 
with flour and butter, yolk of an egg, and flavor- 
ing of lemon juice, pepper, and salt, strain it over 
the chops, which can be arranged in a circle round 
green peas or fresh beans. 

MUTTON CUTLETS. (Prague.) 

Cut up a neck of mutton, and boil the cutlets 
in sufficient stock to cover, with an onion, a car- 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

rot, and some herbs for ^ hour. Drain them, 
make a sauce of i spoonful each of flour and 
butter, I cup of boiling milk, salt, pepper, ^ 
cup of grated horseradish, the juice of ^ a 
lemon, and yolk of i egg. Pour this around 
the chops, dust them with some bread-crumbs, 
and brown in a hot oven. Serve with spinach 
or potatoes. 

VEAL CUTLETS. (Vienna.) 

Slice, pare, and flatten i pounds of veal, add 
salt, pepper, and dip them in egg and bread- 
crumbs. Fry them in bacon fat, and arrange on 
a dish with i^ a teaspoonful of capers on each, 
and a garnish of anchovies, sliced lemon, and 
parsley. Serve with potato salad. 

SAUER-BRATEN. (Germany.) 

Steep a good-sized piece of beef in vinegar for 

1 days. Drain it, lard it with bacon, dust it with 
mixed spices ground fine, salt, and pepper, and 
brown it in melted butter or dripping. Add then 

2 carrots, and 1 onions sliced, a bayleaf, parsley, 
thyme, and sweet marjoram, also the rind of a 
lemon, and i pint of boiling water. Simmer, 
covered, for 3 hours. Take out the meat, skim 

85 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

the gravy, add vinegar to taste, thicken it with a 
Httle flour, then strain, and pour over the meat 
Serve with sauer-kraut. 



SPANISH OLIO. (Olla Podrida.) 

Clean, parboil, and cut up a fine fat rabbit, add 
12 oysters, i cups of consomme, a little mace, 
salt, pepper, some parsley, thyme, and a bayleaf. 
Cook, covered, until tender, about i hour in an 
earthen pot or bowl. Strain the gravy, add }i 
pound of butter, i tablespoonful of flour, an 
anchovy minced fine, a tablespoonful of wine or 
Worcestershire sauce, and pour over the rabbit. 
Serve with a pint of mixed cooked vegetables, 
in the same dish, onions, beans, green peppers, 
carrots, cabbage, etc. 

LITTLE MUTTON TURNOVERS. (Turkey.) 

Chop I pound of cold mutton, add salt, pepper, 
cinnamon, and i chopped onion to a pound of 
meat. Cook with i ounce of butter, and make 
some good puff paste, roll it thin, cut into squares, 
and fill with spoonfuls of the meat. Pinch the 
edges, brush with melted butter, and bake in a 
hot oven. Serve in a mound, with a sauce or 
border of parsley. 

86 




BRAISED SWEETBREADS, DAUPHINY 
(.See pi^gs Sy) 



y 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

AMOURETTES. (Old French and Roman recipe.) 

Cut up and steep i pounds of beef marrow. 
Drain it, add salt and pepper, and i cup of 
tomato sauce. Then add yi pound of chopped 
ham and % pound of cooked and sliced truffles. 
Line a mould with forcemeat, made of bread- 
crumbs, herbs, and butter, then fill with the above 
mixture. Steam it for ^ hour, turn out on a hot 
dish, and serve with mushrooms, and.^ pint of 
white sauce. 

SWEETBREADS (as cooked in Dauphiny). 

Soak and parboil i large heart sweetbreads, 
drain them, lard with strips of pork, and place in a 
casserole with 2 carrots and i onions sliced, and 
some parsley, and % pint consomme. Cover 
closely with a pie plate, on which put something 
heavy, and braise them. In France the plate is of 
earthenware, and live coals are kept on top to 
assist the baking or braising, as it is called. Serve 
with green peas. 

SWEETBREADS FINANCIERE. (Paris.) 

Trim and parboil two pairs of sweetbreads ; fry 
them with i ounce butter, i carrot, i onion, some 
herbs, and i cup of stock. Cook for ^ hour, 
strain the stock over them on a dish, and serve 
with a border of 6 truffles, 6 mushrooms, 6 olives, 

87 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

6 cocks'-combs, and 6 forcemeat balls made of 
chicken, bread, etc., which have been simmered in 
Y2 pint of stock, with a glass of Madeira. 

SWEETBREADS (as cooked in Italy). 

Soak and parboil 1 large heart sweetbreads. Cut 
each into 4 pieces and fry in butter with salt, pep- 
per, and parsley. When cool, dip each in some 
white stock or Bechamel sauce, then in egg and 
bread-crumbs and fry until brown. Serve with 
a brown sauce with mushrooms and a border of 
spaghetti, both cooked, the latter with tomatoes and 
cheese on top. 

SWEETBREADS. (Modena.) 

Blanch and cut into 4 pieces a pair of fine 
sweetbreads. Season, fry them, and drain them. 
Have ready i cup of cold chicken and the same 
of beef tongue, cut into strips, also a cup of 
cooked spaghetti, covered with tomato sauce. 
Arrange the spaghetti in the middle of a plate, put 
the sweetbreads over it and arrange the chicken in 
one end of the plate and the tongue at the other. 
Pour some tomato sauce over all and serve hot. 

BROILED SWEETBREADS. (Paris.) 

Blanch two fine sweetbreads and cook them for 
20 minutes in a cup of stock. Drain them, and 
when cold dip them in a rich cream sauce. When 

88 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

this is firm, roll them in bread-crumbs and a thin 
slice of ham, then tie each in oiled paper. Broil 
them on a gridiron, take off the paper, and serve 
with a border of spinach. 

SWEETBREAD CUTLETS (as cooked in Montpellier). 

Soak a pair of large sweetbreads in salt and 
water, parboil them, and let them cool. Cut into 
shape and dip in aspic jelly, melted. When it is 
firm, arrange in a circle and fill the centre with 
asparagus tips cooked in stock and cut up ; pour 
mayonnaise sauce over the asparagus and put on 
ice until needed. 

SWEETBREAD CROQUETTES. (Paris.) 

Parboil, cool, and chop 4 small or 3 large sweet- 
breads. Cook with I ounce of butter, salt, pep- 
per, a tablespoonful of chopped onion, ^ pint of 
cooked mushrooms, i cup of white stock, and the 
yolks of 1 eggs. Add juice of a lemon, parsley, 
and a little nutmeg. Mix all well and roll into 
balls. Dip into eggs and bread-crumbs and fry 
in hot fat. 

STEWED SWEETBREADS. (England.) 

Parboil a pair of sweetbreads, trim them, and 
cut into 8 pieces. Cover with a pint of veal broth, 
add salt, pepper, parsley, sweet marjoram, and a 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

little mace. Cook, covered, for 40 minutes. Take 
out, strain tlie sauce, add the beaten yolks of 2 
eggs. Pour it around and serve. 

VEAL CUTLETS (as cooked in Venice). 

Chop Y2 pint of mushrooms, 1 onions, some 
parsley, thyme, and 1 ounces of bacon. Mix 
with 1 ounces of butter, season it and rub it 
through a sieve. Cover 2 pounds veal cutlets 
with this on both sides ; cover these with oiled 
paper and cook in a little stock, turning often 
until tender. Take off the paper, add water or 
stock to the sauce, yolks of 2 eggs, and juice of a 
lemon, skim it, strain it, and pour over the cutlets. 

VEAL CUTLETS (as cooked in Metz). 

Lard 6 fine cutlets with strips of bacon. Put 
in a pan with i ounce butter, 2 onions, 2 carrots, 
sliced, and the trimmings of the veal, some parsley, 
a bayleaf, and a cup of consomme. Brown the 
cutlets in the butter, add the rest, cook, covered, 
2 hours, strain sauce, add tomatoes to it. 

BAKED MUTTON CHOPS. (Italy.) 

Braise 6 chops in stock with 2 carrots, an onion, 
parsley, thyme, and sweet marjoram. Let them 
brown, drain them, and reduce the sauce. Add to 

90 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

it Yz cup bread-crumbs, yolk of i hard-boiled egg, 
6 mushrooms, salt, and pepper. Chop this fine 
and dip each chop in it, then in grated Parmesan 
cheese. Bake in the oven until brown and serve 
with Tartare sauce. 

MUTTON CHOPS (as cooked in Southern France). 

Trim and season 5 cutlets ; fry them in i ounce 
butter. Chop 5 small onions and fry them in 
butter ; when soft but not brown, add the juice of 
a lemon, some parsley, and the yolks of 1 eggs. 
Stir until thick and add salt and pepper. Cover 
the chops on both sides with this, and lay them on 
a dish ; dust bread-crumbs thickly over all and 
bake until brown. Serve with green peas. 

BRAISED CHOPS. (Poland.) 

Trim 7 chops, fry in butter, and let them cool. 
Make a forcemeat of y^ pound bacon, i^ pound 
calf's liver, some bread-crumbs, i carrot, i onion, 
I bayleaf, parsley, salt, and pepper. Chop these 
well and cook for 10 minutes, rub through a sieve, 
coat the chops on both sides with it. Cover each 
with buttered paper and braise, in the oven, bast- 
ing with Y2 cup of brown sauce or stock. Take 
off the paper, strain the sauce around, and serve 
with a border of fried potatoes. 

91 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

LAMB CHOPS. (Madame de Maintenon.) 

Trim the chops, make a forcemeat of chopped 
ham, bread-crumbs, and mushrooms, in equal parts, 
mixed with onion juice, parsley, butter, and season- 
ing. Put a tablespoonful on each chop ; roll it in 
buttered paper. Bake, in a closed tin, in a hot 
oven, then mark them with a hot skewer, to imitate 
the wires of a gridiron. Serve in the papers with 
peas. This dish was invented to please the king 
whom the lady married. 

EPIGRAMMES OF LAMB, (A famous French entr6e.) 

Pare, season, and fry 4 lamb chops. Dip each 
in crumbs and broil. Take a breast of lamb, 
cooked in broth, remove the bones and cut it into 
8 pieces. Dip each into cold Bechamel or stock 
made of chicken, then in crumbs and fry brown. 
Arrange these two alternately, chops and cutlets, 
overlapping, in a circle, and fill the centre with 
green peas, string beans, and asparagus tips, cooked, 
a cupful of each, and pour around a good sauce 
made of milk or stock, herbs, etc., as convenient. 

FRICANDEAU OF VEAL (invented by the cook of Leo X., 
Jean Careme). 

Take 3 pounds of the fillet of veal, 4 inches 
thick, and cut it round or oval, to fit a baking dish 

92 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

or casserole. Lard it closely with strips of bacon ; 
add to this i carrots, i onions, i turnips, and i 
ounce of ham, sliced, parsley, a clove, the trim- 
mings of the veal, salt, pepper, and y^ pint of con- 
somme. Lay the fillet on top of this, and, covering 
it closely, bake until tender. Baste it often. A 
short time before serving, strain the gravy, thicken 
it with flour, and serve in the same dish, with spin- 
ach, or tomatoes, stuffed or fried potatoes. 

GRENADINES OF VEAL. (French.) 

Cut 4 slices, one inch thick, from a cushion or 
noix of veal ; flatten it and put into a saucepan with 
thin slices of ham and j4 cup of white stock, a 
carrot and an onion and some parsley. Cook in 
the oven i hour, basting often. Strain the sauce, 
pour over, and serve with peas. 

VEAL AND MUSHROOMS. (Germany.) 

Make a forcemeat of bread, herbs, some cold 
veal, yolk of an egg, and milk to moisten. Have 
ready 8 slices of thinly cut veal ; fill with this and 
roll, tying to keep in shape. Put into a pan with 
I onion, some butter, salt, pepper, parsley, and a 
spoonful of chopped ham and i cup of veal stock. 
Cook I hour, take out, strain the sauce, and add 
to it 6 mushrooms. Cook these until tender, add 

93 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

a spoonful of sherry and press through a sieve ; 
arrange the veal on this and serve. 

CREAM OF VEAL. (Germany.) 

Chop and pound i pound of veal tenderloin, 
add as much bread-crumbs, moistened with milk, 
the yolk of an egg and the beaten whites of two, 
and enough milk to make into a paste. Stir and 
season and pour into a buttered mould. Steam it 
like a custard for an hour, and serve with a sauce. 

MINUTEN FLEISCH. (Germany.) 

Slice i^ pounds of tender veal very thin; cut 
into 4-inch squares and season to taste. Put in a 
pan with ^ cup of claret, and, when well steeped, 
take out, dip in flour, and lay in a buttered pan 
with some parsley, half a cup of consomme, and 
the juice of a lemon. Bake 40 minutes, or until 
tender, and serve with the sauce around. 

GOULASCH. (Hungary.) 

Boil and cut into bits the meat of a calf's head. 
Fry it with an onion in butter, add salt and pa- 
prika, I pint of brown stock or sauce, and 12 balls 
cut from potatoes and fried in butter, also 1 2 onions 
cooked in butter till brown. Arrange the meat in 
centre and the vegetables around. 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

POERKOELL. (Hungary.) 

This is another national dish of the country. 

I Cut into 2-inch squares i pounds of veal from the 

I shin. Add half as much of the tenderloin of fresh 

pork, and fry both with an onion, some herbs, and 

a little paprika. Cover with 3 cups of bouillon 

and cook i hour. Serve with a vegetable border. 



PUCHERO. (National dish of Spain.) 

Put 1 pounds beef with a pig's foot, the liver of 
a chicken, cut up, 3 cups of dried peas soaked over- 
night, I quart of water, some herbs, and an onion. 
Do not cut the meat and pork. Cook, covered,, 
for 1 hours. Add 1 leeks, a carrot, and a head of 
lettuce, a slice of squash or pumpkin cut into shreds, 
and 6 small sausages or balls made of sausage meat. 
Cook I hour longer, arrange the meat neatly with 
the vegetables, etc., around, strain the gravy, and 
pour it over. Serve with a border of toast. 

PUNSKI. (Russia.) 

Chop and fry i onion ; add the meat of a sliced 
fillet of veal ; fry it, season it, and let it cool. Chop 
it fine with the yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs and a 
little parsley, thicken it to a paste with some good 
broth. Roll out very thin some fine pastry dough, 
cut into circles, and by putting two together, fill 

95 



f 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

with the meat. Let it rise a little, brush with the 
yolk of an egg, and bake until brown. Serve on a 
dish with a good sauce. 

MINESTRONE. (Italy.) 

Chop 2 ounces bacon ; add a slice of ham, a 
cabbage, shredded, 2 cups of string beans, 4 table- 
spoonfuls of celery cut into dice, as much peas, 
asparagus tips, and a cup of stewed tomatoes. 
Then add 2 quarts of broth, i pound of rice, and 
some sliced Bologna sausage. Cook for i hour ; 
add a cup of grated Parmesan cheese and serve 
hot. This is a national dish. 

LEICESTERSHIRE MEDLEY. (England.) 

Line a dish with some good pie-crust ; bake it 
until a light brown. Cut up i pound each of roast 
beef, bacon, and cored apples. Fill in alternate 
layers, seasoning with salt, pepper, and powdered 
ginger, and when it is full, a pint of ale, or enough 
to moisten all. Put on a lid of the dough and 
bake in a moderate oven 2 hours. Serve hot or 
cold. 

LANCASHIRE HOT-POT. (England.) 

Take 3^ pounds of choice mutton, in chops, 
from the neck, 4 mutton kidneys, 20 oysters, 4 
onions, sliced, and 3 pounds of potatoes. Slice 

96 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

the potatoes and kidneys, and arrange all in alter- 
nate layers in a deep dish, seasoning with herbs, 
salt, and pepper. Put a layer of potatoes on top, 
and moisten with oyster juice. Bake in a slow 
oven until the top is crisp. Cover at first with a 
pie plate to keep in the steam, cooking about 3^ 
hours. 

JACOBIN'S POTTAGE. 

This is a particularly tempting dish, popular in 
the old convents in France before the Revolution. 

Chop the meat of a cold turkey fine ; add 1 
ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, salt, pepper, and 
nutmeg. Make four or five slices of toast, put in 
the bottom of a dish, and add i cup stock, then 
the chopped meat and a sprinkling of crumbs. 
Bake i hour, add lemon juice on top. 

ENGLISH HAGGIS. 

Haggis is peculiar to Scotland, but few people 
outside of that country care for it as originally 
made, — from the intestines, lungs, and stomach of 
a sheep, — so the English version is given, as 
likely to be popular when once it is tried. 

Weigh and chop the tongue, liver, and kidneys 

of a sheep, then add half their weight in fat bacon, 

minced fine, 2 slices of stale bread in crumbs, 1 

anchovies, pounded, a spoonful of lemon juice and 

7 97 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

the grated rind, pepper, salt, and two eggs, beaten. 
Stir well, pour into a mould, steam it for i hours 
and turn out. Serve hot, with a sauce, if desired. 

BAKED CALF'S HEART. (England.) 

This is a very old dish and called usually, *^ Love 
in Disguise." Wash the heart well, wipe it, and 
fill it with a forcemeat of chopped veal, bread- 
crumbs, herbs, onion, seasoning, and yolk of egg. 
Tie it in oiled paper and bake it for i^^ hours, 
basting often. Take off the paper, sprinkle it 
with flour, and let it brown. Serve it in slices, 
with a puree of spinach, or tomatoes, or mashed 
potato. 

OXFORD JOHN MUTTON. (England.) 

This is an old way of cold meat cookery. Melt 
some butter ; add some thinly cut slices of under- 
done mutton, shaped in circles as large as an egg. 
Season with salt, pepper, onion juice, parsley, 
thyme, and a blade of mace. Stir it well, and when 
brown, add i cup of good stock or gravy, free 
from fat, then a spoonful of currant jelly, and a 
spoonful of flour, blended with as much butter. 
Stir five minutes more and serve hot. 

BACHELOR'S STEW. (England.) 

This is still another old recipe, a relic of the 
days before clubs became plentiful and lonely men 

9S 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

cooked their meals on the hob of the little fire- 
place of their own rooms. 

Buy a slice of the fillet of veal, 2 inches thick, 
weighing 2j4 pounds. Fry it in a pan with some 
butter, a slice of lean ham, 2 carrots, 3 onions, 
sliced, and some celery, and green peas, j4 cup- 
ful each, or more if desired. Add a spoonful 
of Worcestershire sauce and a cup of boiling 
water. Cover very closely, and let it simmer 
for ij4 hours. Thicken the gravy with flour 
and pour it around the meat and vegetables, 
neatly arranged. 

TRIPE (k la mode de Caen). 

Tripe is cooked in various styles at Caen, Dijon, 
Venice, Lyons, and Toulouse. That of Caen is 
justly the most delightful. _ 

Clean, scald, and scrape i}4 pounds of tripe — 

or it can be bought already dressed. Cut it into 

neat pieces about 2 inches square, and put it in an 

earthen casserole with i large carrot, and an onion, 

sliced, I clove, i bayleaf, a bit of thyme, and a 

spoonful of chopped parsley. Fry these in butter; 

add a pint of consomme and a tablespoonful of 

white wine or cider ; cover closely and cook until 

tender. It must be served in the casserole, as it 

is abroad. 

L.orC. pg 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

TRIPE (as cooked in Lyons). 

Cut into narrow strips i pound of cold boiled 
tripe. Fry it in i ounces of butter or soup fat, 
clarified, with 2 large sliced onions, parsley, pepper, 
salt, and a tablespoonful of vinegar. When brown, 
pour into a dish, and serve with a border of Lyon- 
naise potatoes. The recipe for these can be found 
in any cook-book. 

CALLALOU. (A Greek dish, brought by sailors to Marseilles.) 

Cut into slices two dozen ochra pods, add a 
little salt, and set aside for 15 minutes. Then 
wash them with warm water, drain, and boil until 
tender. Drain them once more ; add two handfuls 
of string beans, sHced and cooked. Cut also 2 
egg plants into squares, 5 large tomatoes, and slice 
2 large onions, and core and slice 2 green peppers. 
Cook all of these in butter or dripping, stirring 
until almost dry ; season, add some chopped pars- 
ley, cook 10 minutes more, and serve hot. 

CASSOULIC. (Provence.) 

Chop the remains of any cold meat into dice; 
add some bacon and onions, cut up half as much 
of cold cooked lima or white beans, pressed 
through a sieve, and enough gravy or stock to 
moisten. Stir ; add salt, pepper, parsley, sweet 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

marjoram, and a pinch of nutmeg ; pour into a dish, 
and sprinkle bread-crumbs thickly on top. Bake 



CASSOLETTE. (Languedoc.) 

Make a puree of cooked white beans, add salt 
and pepper and as much finely chopped turkey, 
chicken, or duck. Fry an onion, i slices of bacon, 
and 2 tomatoes, shced, with i cloves, parsley, and 
the beans and meat, well blended. Now add i 
pint of good broth, enough to make a paste; pour 
into a dish and bake until brown. This is a very 
old dish and very good to eat, besides. 

ANDOUILLETTES OF NANCY. 

Nancy, St. Menehould, Aries, and Lyons are 
as famous for their sausages as Frankfurt and 
Brunswick and Bologna. But the French prepa- 
rations are much daintier than those of Italy and 
Germany. 

Take 2 pounds of veal and one of fresh pork. 
Cook the latter two hours in salted water, and 
chop both very fine, with 1 onions, 3 truffles, 
and 4 mushrooms, adding parsley, salt, and 
pepper. Mix well and press into sausage skins, — 
which can be bought from a butcher, — tie them 
at intervals of 2 inches and boil them for an hour 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

in I quart of consomme flavored with i carrots, 
1 turnips, and j^ of a cabbage. This can be used 
later for soup. Let them cool, cut apart, and 
fry them 25 minutes in butter, then serve them 
with omelette or poached eggs. 

PIGS' FEET (as cooked in St. Menehould). 

Clean and split 2 large feet, then tie them 
securely and put in a quart of stock, or broth, 
with salt, pepper, a carrot, an onion, parsley, 
thyme, a bayleaf, a clove, and two pieces of celery. 
Cover and cook 3 hours. Drain, remove the 
bones, put under a weight, and when cold dip in 
butter and bread-crumbs and broil until brown. 
Serve hot with Tartare sauce or a cream sauce 
with mushrooms in it. 

CROWDIE. (Scotland.) 

Skim the fat from 2 quarts mutton broth, add 
^2 pint of oatmeal and 2 onions chopped fine, 
salt, pepper, and parsley. Cover ; cook 3 hours ; 
strain it, and serve with slices of toast. 

HOWTOWDIE. (Scotland.) 

Clean, truss, and stuff a fine fowl with a force- 
meat of veal, bread, herbs, and yolk of egg. 
Brown it in a pan with 4 ounces of butter or 
drippings ; add }4 pint good stock, and cook, with 

102 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

some parsley, thyme, salt, 6 small onions, and a 
bayleaf, for an hour, tightly closed. Serve with 
a border of cooked greens. 

KEDGEREE. (England.) 

Soak I pint of split peas overnight, drain them, 
add I pound of rice, salt, pepper, and ^ a tea- 
spoonful of ginger. Stir and cover with i quart 
of water. Stir and cook slowly until done and 
almost dry. Make into a mound, garnish with 
fried onions and sliced hard-boiled eggs. 

HODGE-PODGE. (England.) 

Cut a neck of mutton, about 6 pounds, and cut 
into chops, except the scrag end, which use whole. 
Add to both ^ pint water, 6 small onions, cut in 
halves, 6 turnips and 2 carrots, cut into dice and 
^ of a cabbage, sliced. Simmer for ^ hour, add 
2 ounces barley and some herbs. Cook until the 
meat is tender, take out the scrag, and strain the 
sauce over the meat and vegetables on a dish. 
Serve with thick slices of toasted bran bread. 
This is a very old recipe for family stew. 

BEEF TONGUE (as cooked in Alsace-Lorraine). 

Boil a tongue until tender in some stock. 
Drain, cool it, and remove the skin and uneven 

103 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

end. Cover it with egg and bread-crumbs and 
bake it ^ hour, basting it with i cup of port wine. 
Make a puree of chestnuts by boiling, peeHng, and 
chopping I quart, adding sufficient white stock 
and seasoning, and a pinch of mace. Press 
through a sieve ; it will look like vermicelli. Place 
the tongue on top, and serve hot, with a good 
sauce made of tomatoes, onions, herbs, bacon, etc. 

BEEF TONGUE (as cooked in Italy). 

Boil and slice in strips a tongue ; put it in a 
dish with a sauce made of 3 minced onions, fried 
in butter with a teaspoonful of flour, 2 of lemon 
juice, and a cupful of chopped mushrooms. Boil 
this 10 minutes, and pour over, adding bread- 
crumbs on top and bits of butter. Bake 20 
minutes, and serve with spinach, or peas, or 
spaghetti cooked with tomatoes and cheese. 

BEEF TONGUE (as cooked in France). 

Parboil and skin a tongue. Add one pint of 
white broth, parsley, thyme, a clove, i onion, i 
carrot, and a turnip. Cook for 1 hours. Cool 
it, and slice it in 12 pieces, across. Arrange in 
the original shape with a forcemeat between, of 4 
ounces bread, soaked in milk, some mushrooms, 
herbs, butter, salt, and yolks of two eggs. Lay it 

104 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

on a dish ; cover with a layer of the stock, some 
crumbs over all, and bake, sprinkling some cheese 
over it, for Y^ hour. Serve in the same dish. 

FRENCH KIDNEY STEW. 

Slice, season, and fry in i ounces of butter i fine 
veal kidneys which have been soaked and par- 
boiled. These must be cut into dice, and then 
added, parsley, pepper, and salt. Merely brown 
the kidneys, or they will be tough. Now mix 3 
sliced mushrooms with ^ cup of stock or con- 
somme, thickened with flour and some butter, 
juice of a lemon, and a glass of sherry. Boil and 
pour over the kidneys, previously placed on slices 
of toast. 

BRAISED CALF'S LIVER (as cooked in Italy). 

Boil and lard a fine fresh liver. Put it in a 
dish with ^ pound of chopped bacon, 1 carrots, 
1 onions, parsley, thyme, a bayleaf, salt, and pep- 
per, and a pint of consomme. Cook 2 hours, 
add I cup of stewed tomatoes and a tablespoonful 
of sherry wine. Strain and reduce the sauce, after 
cooking 20 minutes longer. Brown the liver with 
a little flour, sprinkled over, and pour the sauce 
around, with 6 freshly fried mushrooms, and a 
border of cooked spaghetti. 

i°5 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

BLANQUETTE OF VEAL. (France.) 

Cut up, and soak in water for an hour, 2 
pounds of the shoulder of veal. Drain it and 
cover with water, adding salt, pepper, and a bay- 
leaf. Boil slowly and skim often, for an hour. 
Take out the meat, put it with 2 ounces butter, 
parsley, and an onion, and then, when a pale 
yellow, add i ounce flour, ^ pint fresh peas, and 
I cup of the gravy. Strain the rest, add the yolk 
of an egg and the juice of a lemon, and pour over 
all. 

RAGOUT OF LAMB. (Germany.) 

Cover 2 pounds of the breast of lamb with cold 
water, and simmer for ten minutes. Throw away 
this water, and cut up the meat into pieces. Add 
I sliced onion, a carrot, a piece of celery, parsley, 
sweet marjoram, pepper, and salt. Cook these 
with a little butter, and the meat, 10 minutes; 
dredge with flour, add ^ pint mutton broth — or 
hot water — and stew until tender. Take out the 
meat, add yolks of 1 eggs and a tablespoonful of 
vinegar to the sauce, strain it, and pour over. 
Serve with sorrel. 

LAMB RAGOUT AND RAVIOLI. (Italy.) 

Boil 1 pounds of the neck of lamb and 3 
quarts of water, salt, pepper, parsley, a turnip, and 

106 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

1 onions, sliced and cooked in butter. Simmer 
for 3 hours, cut the meat into small pieces, reduce 
the broth by rapid boiling, and add i dozen 
ravioli — see recipe — previously poached in broth. 
Serve the meat garnished with these, and the 
strained broth, in a bowl. 

RAGOUT OF DUCK. (Ireland.) 

Clean and cut up a fine young duck, fry it in 
butter or drippings, with an onion, and 2 ounces 
chopped ham, add i ounce flour, stir, and add y^ 
pint of hot water and a tablespoonful of vinegar, 
some parsley, a little thyme, and a piece of celery. 
Cover, and cook i hour, season, and serve with a 
border of potato croquettes, or mashed potatoes, 
browned. 

SCOTCH STEW (from a private recipe book). 

The border tribes and lairds have been forced, 
for several centuries, to economize closely, and 
when they can get a piece of fresh meat, they 
utilize every scrap most carefully. Poverty has 
taught them many secrets besides caution and 
self-control. 

Peel and chop 6 small onions, add a pint of 
cold water, and cook for i hour. Strain the water, 
thicken it with flour and an ounce of butter, add 

107 



* 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

a cupful of gravy, left over from the meat used, 
and skimmed, a tablespoonful of Worcestershire 
and another of tomato sauce, some parsley, salt, 
pepper, and nutmeg. Mix and pour over the 
cold roast mutton, or turkey, or veal cut into 
pieces, with 6 boiled and peeled potatoes, and 
cook for 20 minutes, covered with a thick layer 
of bread-crumbs. 

KEBOBBED MUTTON. (England.) 

Bone, stuff a shoulder of mutton with bread- 
crumbs, onions, herbs, egg, and lemon peel, and 
a little butter ; coat it with egg and crumbs, 
herbs, and chopped onion, and bake till brown, 
basting it with its own gravy of butter, and ^ 
cup of hot water. Add a tablespoonful of ketchup 
to the sauce, and serve with boiled onions or 
green peas. 

MINCED LAMB. (Southern France.) 

Remove the fat and gristle from as much cold 
roast lamb as would fill 1 cups, and chop very 
fine. Cook it with an onion, a tablespoonful of 
butter, salt, pepper, some parsley and nutmeg. 
Add I cup of white stock or sauce, and the yolk 
of an egg. Cook carefully and pour on slices of 
toast, previously dipped in hot water and drained. 

108 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

Pour around some nice sauce, and garnish with 
parsley. 

BEEF HASH (as cooked in Russia). 

Chop 2 pounds of lean raw beef (or underdone 
roast beef) with ^ pound of suet, i onions, some 
parsley, salt, and pepper. Add i cup of con- 
somme and yi cup of bread-crumbs. Stir well, 
pour into a mould, sprinkle with crumbs on top, 
and a spoonful of lemon juice. Bake until brown, 
and turn out on a border of mashed potatoes. 

ITALIAN BEEF CROQUETTES. 

Chop very finely ^ pound of cold roast beef, 
add y^ pound of stale bread-crumbs which have 
been soaked in enough stock, i spoonful of 
chopped onion, fried in butter, salt, pepper, and 
parsley. Stir on the fire until smooth, add i table- 
spoonfuls of stewed and strained tomatoes, and 
the yolk of an egg. When cool, make into cro- 
quettes, dip in crumbs, and fry in boiling fat. 
Serve with mushroom or caper sauce. 

CHICKEN CROQUETTES (as made at the 
Jockey Club, Paris). 

For one dozen, cut ^ pound boiled chicken 
very fine, with i^ pound or }4 can of button 
mushrooms, i tablespoonful of butter, the same 
of flour, yolks of i eggs, and i glass of sherry. 

109 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

First, fry an onion in butter, add flour, then a cup 
of chicken broth, the other things chopped fine, 
and seasoning. When it boils, add the eggs, and 
take off to cool. When firm, make into shape 
and fry. This is a very deHcious recipe ; the cro- 
quettes are soft inside and hard outside, as they 
should be, if well fried. But the fat must be 
abundant and boiling. 

MOCK RABBIT. (A German supper dish.) 

Mix I pound of raw chopped beef, and as much 
lean veal, also chopped, with 4 eggs, i cup of 
bread-crumbs, a little salt, pepper, nutmeg, parsley, 
thyme, and a spoonful of onion juice. Beat all 
well, and shape on a dish into an oval loaf. Cover 
with egg and bread-crumbs ; put in a pan lined with 
slices of pork ; baste it in oven while baking it, and 
about 40 minutes. Serve hot or cold and in slices. 

ANGELS ON HORSEBACK. (English supper dish.) 

Cut 1 ounces of bacon into very thin slices, wrap 
each around a fat oyster, put three on a skewer, 
using all required, and fry in butter ; serve that way 
on toast, with slices of lemon. 

WINCHESTER CUTLETS. (England.) 

Mix ^ pound of cold minced chicken, veal, or 
lamb, with yi pound bread-crumbs, i ounce butter, 

no 




MOCK RABBIT, GERMANY 
{See page no) 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

yolk of one egg, salt, parsley, and a spoonful of 
flour. Mould into chops, put a bit of macaroni in 
the end of each, to imitate a bone, dip in eggs and 
bread-crumbs, and fry brown. Serve with tomato 
sauce or a puree of spinach. 

VENTNOR PUDDING. (England.) 

Mince some cold roast beef, and to every pound 
add Y2 pound bread-crumbs, soaked in a little 
stock, a spoonful of butter, a spoonful of curry 
powder, pepper, celery, salt, and an onion chopped 
fine. Mix well, pour into a dish, cover with 2 
whole eggs, well beaten and seasoned and bake 
until brown. Serve hot. 

PILAFF OF BEEF. (Barcelona.) 

Cut I pound of tender beef — fresh meat — into 
4-inch slices, add i onion, minced fine, in butter, a 
bit of celery, some parsley, thyme, seasoning, and 
sufficient stock to moisten all. Cook until the 
meat is done, add a spoonful of white wine, pour 
on a hot dish, arrange around ^ pound of rice, 
boiled in some stock, and cover with tomato 
sauce. 

BRAISED BEEF, en daube. (Marseilles.) 

Lard closely 6 pounds of beef, and soak over- 
night in enough mild vinegar to cover it. Drain 

III 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

it ; brown it on both sides in a casserole or deep 
pan, with a little suet and some flour. Add i^ 
quarts of boiling water, i bayleaves, 6 cloves, 6 
allspice, some parsley, i carrots, i turnip, and i 
onion, sliced, salt, and pepper. Cover closely, and 
cook slowly for 4 hours, turning the meat several 
times. Take it out of the broth, and put in a 
mould of proper size; lay a weight on top and let it 
cool. Clarify the broth, add sufficient gelatine to 
make a jelly, and pour around the meat in the 
mould. When firm, turn out and serve cold, in 
slices. 

BRAISED BEEF. (English recipe.) 

Lard 4 pounds of beef, from the rump ; season 
it with salt, pepper, allspice, and chopped onion. 
Tie it neatly, and fry it in 1 ounces of butter or 
soup fat (the skimming of stock), then pour off the 
grease and add i pint of consomme, i cup toma- 
toes, a spoonful of sherry, 2 onions, i carrot, i 
turnip, sliced, and some parsley. Cook, covered, 
for 3 hours. Take out the meat, press the broth 
through a sieve, thicken it with flour, and pour 
around the meat. 

BEEF STEW (as cooked in Poland). 

Bone and stuff a loin of beef or about 5 pounds 
with a good forcemeat ; tie it firmly and brown it 

1 12 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

on one side in a little suet. Add i quart of stock 
or boiling water, and cook it for 3 hours, covered, 
with, if hot water is used, some onions, carrots, 
celery, and herbs. Strain the stock, reduce it by 
rapid boiling, add i cup of cooked and strained 
tomatoes and have ready a red cabbage, cooked 
and sliced and dipped in vinegar, one dozen small 
onions and 6 beets, cooked and sliced ; arrange 
these nicely around the meat and pour the sauce 
over. Serve hot. 

BOILED BEEF (as cooked in Hungary). 

Chop the beef used in stock very fine, and 
arrange in shape of a mound. Garnish with 
shredded lettuce, hard-boiled eggs, gherkins, and 
capers ; prepare a dressing of oil, vinegar (tarragon 
preferred), onion juice, salt, and pepper ; pour over 
all and serve cold. 

SOUFFLE OF GAME. (Germany.) 

Chop and pound 2 cups of the meat of rabbits, 
guinea fowl, partridges or duck, very fine (the 
dark meat of a turkey will do) ; add 1 ounces of 
boiled rice, i ounce butter, salt, pepper, ^ cup 
of stock, and some parsley. Mix well and pass 
through a sieve. Add yolks of 4 eggs and the 
beaten whites of two ; stir and pour into a mould. 
Bake until brown and serve hot. 

8 113 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

SALMI OF GAME. (Scotch hunter's recipe.) 

Chop and cut into dice the meat of any cold 
game, to make 2 cups. Add to the skin, bones 
and gravy and trimmings, i glass of claret, 2 
small chopped onions, thyme, a clove, a cup of 
consomme mixed with a tablespoonful of flour 
and 2 tablespoonfuls of tomatoes. Cook and stir 
and strain ; add the game and 6 stoned olives ; 
cook a little longer, and pour over slices of toast. 

GOOSE LIVER KLOSSE. (Germany.) 

This can be made equally well of calf's liver. 
In Germany, goose is a favorite fowl, and there 
are plenty of livers left over for fancy cookery. 
Crumble 2 slices of stale bread and soak them in 
enough milk to cover. Melt i ounce butter, add 
4 beaten eggs, parsley, salt, and a pinch of spice. 
Stir until it thickens, add bread, and i cup of 
chopped liver — parboiled — and make it all into 
balls. Poach these in broth for j4 an hour. Drain 
and serve in a pile, with a good sauce. This is a 
good dish, and the recipe can be made, baking the 
whole in a dish, instead of as above. 

PARTRIDGES WITH CABBAGE. (Northern France.) 

Slice and parboil a head of cabbage. Lay it on 
a dish and on each piece a partridge, stuffed with 

114 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

sausage meat, mixed with some chopped herbs, 2 
onions, i carrots, and }i pound butter. Add i cup 
of stock and cover very closely ; cook slowly for i 
hours. Arrange the cabbage on a dish with the 
birds on top and pour the gravy over all. 

JUGGED HARE. (England.) 

Clean, skin, and cut up a rabbit ; fry it in butter 
or a little dripping until brown. Mash and bone 
1 anchovies ; chop some herbs, mace, parsley, and 
lemon peel. Line an earthen jar or bowl with 
slices of bacon ; put in the rabbit, with bacon and 
the above flavoring in layers, adding 4 tablespoon- 
fuls of ale, and on the top some bacon and an 
earthen lid which must be fastened air-tight, with 
flour paste. Set in a saucepan of water and boil 
for 4 hours. Take off the cover and serve cold. 

JUGGED HARE. (Another recipe. Yorkshire style.) 

Skin, clean, cut up, and fry a rabbit, in butter ; 
put it in a wide stone crock with i glass of port 
wine, a little cinnamon, a clove, a bayleaf, juice of 
a lemon, over all, a layer of forcemeat, made of 
bread-crumbs, herbs, egg, and butter. Smooth the 
top, cover closely, and set in a pot of water. Cook 
3 hours and serve with currant jelly. 

"5 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

CIVET OF HARE. (England.) 

Clean and cut up a rabbit ; fry all in some 
butter, adding some chopped ham, about 2 table- 
spoonfuls. Then add i^ pints stock, thickened 
with some flour, 6 small onions, i bayleaf, i bit 
of mace, salt, pepper, and 6 chopped mushrooms. 
Simmer i hour, strain the sauce, add a spoonful 
of port wine, or the juice of a lemon. Arrange 
the meat on toast and pour over the sauce, 

RABBIT (as cooked in Venice). 

Cut up three fine rabbits, melt i ounce of butter 
and add i ounce chopped ham and some parsley, 
onion juice, and herbs ; fry, and add the meat. 
When brown, add ^ cup of white broth and cook 
until tender. Strain the sauce, add the yolks of 3 
eggs, a tablespoonful of capers, and salt and pepper. 
If not enough, add hot cream or milk and pour 
over. 

RABBIT CAKE. (Germany.) 

Boil a rabbit in water with onions, carrots, herbs, 
etc., using this broth for soup and cutting up the 
meat of the rabbit. Chop it very fine ; add 
I cup of mashed potato, i onion chopped in but- 
ter, ^ pound of beef tongue, parsley, thyme, and 
seasoning. Chop well, and add i cup of white 

116 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

stock ; arrange on a dish in a mound and put 
bread-crumbs over and bits of butter. Bake till 
brown and serve with mushroom or tomato sauce. 

ASPIC OF RABBIT. (Austria.) 

Cook slowly, until tender, in 3 pints of water 
and I cup of wine vinegar, 1 fine rabbits, adding 
a teaspoonful of salt, yi as much peppercorns, 
4 white onions, fried in butter, and ^ a lemon. 
This will require about an hour. Strain through a 
sieve, and add enough beef stock to make 1 quarts, 
a packet of gelatine soaked in a little hot water, 
and boil once more, then let it cool. Make a 
forcemeat of i calf's liver, chopped fine with yi 
pound of ham, 1 hard-boiled eggs, i cup of bread- 
crumbs, 1 tablespoonfuls of butter, parsley, salt, 
pepper. Mix all this, finely chopped, and bake it 
a half hour in an oiled tin ; when cold, slice it. 
Line a mould with jelly, made as above, and fill in 
layers with forcemeat, jelly, and rabbit, cut in 
slices. Cover the top with jelly, — it must be 
melted in order to do it right, — a-nd set on ice. 
Turn out and serve with mayonnaise dressing. 

VENISON (as cooked in Roumania). 

Lard a piece, about 4 pounds, of venison from 
the leg, and brown it, in butter or dripping, on 

117 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

both sides. Add i cup of claret, i cup of con- 
somme, I stick of cinnamon, a spoonful of sugar, 
salt, and pepper, and some parsley. When cooked 

1 hour, add 2 dozen large prunes which have 
been soaked overnight and drained ; then cook for 

2 hours, closely covered, longer. Strain the sauce, 
arrange the prunes as a border, and pour the sauce 
over all. 

VENISON. (Hunter's recipe.) 

Butter a large sheet of clean paper, and sprinkle 
It with salt. Spread a paste of flour and water 
over a board, and wrap the saddle of venison in it, 
then cover it closely with the paper, tying It to 
keep It in place. Put It in an earthen dish with 
Y2 cup of butter and a glass of port wine, and baste 
it often while cooking, adding hot water if too 
dry. It ought to cook slowly, long enough to be 
tender. Ten minutes before serving, take off the 
paper and paste, sprinkle the meat with flour, and 
let It brown. Serve with a sauce of bread-crumbs 
called panada. 

PIG'S HARSLET. (English.) 

Wash and dry i pound of calf's liver, i pair 
of sweetbreads, y^ pound of fresh pork. Cut 
these into very thin slices, add salt, pepper, sage, 
and chopped onion. Arrange in layers, to form a 

118 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

loaf, and cover with a pig's membrane, — which 
any butcher can obtain, — and bake it, basting it 
often with butter. When it has cooked i^ hours, 
dust it with bread-crumbs, and let it brown. Serve 
with a brown gravy, made of stock and flavored 
with sherry. 

HEAD CHEESE. (Nancy.) 

Boil the forehead, ears, and feet of a pig in i 
quart of water, until the meat will fall from the 
bones. Cut it into ^ inch squares, add salt and 
pepper, sage and sweet marjoram, and return to 
the broth and cook till it is thick, then take out 
the bones and strain it. Arrange the meat in a 
mould, and pour the jelly over it. When cold, 
turn out and slice. 

PIGEON PIE. (England.) 

Cut 2 pigeons, after cleaning them, into four 
pieces, each ; cut into pieces i inch square ^ pound 
of beef tenderloin, season with salt, pepper, pars- 
ley, and chopped onion, arrange the meat in a 
dish, and cover with i cup of stock, then a layer 
of sliced hard-boiled eggs, and a layer of bacon. 
Sprinkle a little flour over each piece of meat 
before putting in. Add a tablespoonful of wal- 
nut catchup to the stock, and cover all with 
a thin puff paste, brushed with the yolk of an egg, 

119 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

to glaze it. Bake in a good oven lyi hours, 
serve hot or cold. 

BEEFSTEAK PIE. (England.) 

Cut 2 pounds of fine steak into thin strips, 
season, and dust with flour. Roll each strip, and 
arrange in a deep dish with two lamb's kidneys, 
cut up and parboiled, i dozen oysters, i onion 
chopped, parsley, thyme, a bayleaf, some bits of 
butter, and a cup of hot water. Cover with a 
layer of puff paste, gashing it in several places to 
allow steam to escape, and brushing it with yolk 
of egg. Bake i hours in a moderate oven, and 
serve very hot. 

VEAL AND HAM PIE. (Melton Mowbray, Leicestershire.) 

Pork pies are made here, and exactly like the 
following recipe, but they are not so palatable to 
Americans as the more delicate mixture of veal 
with the ham. 

Slice i^ pound of ham very thin, and cut i pounds 
of veal into strips, and cover it with boiling water, 
— setting the ham aside, — add the bones of the 
veal and some herbs, and cook i hour. Remove 
the meat, and return the bones to the broth, add- 
ing salt, pepper, a bayleaf, summer savory, thyme, 
parsley, a slice of onion, and a carrot. Boil this 

I20 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

slowly 2 hours, or until it equals ^ pint. Strain 
and set aside. Make some forcemeat of bread, 
herbs, and yolk of egg into 8 balls, and fill a dish 
with layers of ham, veal, and the balls around 
the sides. Add half of the broth, cover with 
paste as above, and bake i hour, making the lid 
artistic with cut leaves, yolk of egg being used 
over all. Do not touch the edges, or they will 
not rise. Leave a hole in middle, and, when baked, 
pour in the rest of the broth. Serve hot or cold. 
A very fine old dish. 

VEAL AND HAM PIE. (A more fancy recipe.) 

Butter a dish, and fill it with layers of sliced 
veal seasoned with salt, pepper, and mace, cold 
ham, and sweetbreads, parboiled and sliced, adding 
I dozen truffles cut fine, and a cup of rich stock, 
and a lid of puff paste. Bake 3 hours, pour a 
glass of sherry or claret or white wine through the 
hole, and serve hot or cold. 

VEAL LIVER PIE OR PATE. (Germany.) 

Parboil and mince finely i pound of calf's liver; 
add 10 ounces of bacon. Mix well, adding salt, 
pepper, and nutmeg, i tablespoonful of parsley, 
I onion, chopped and fried ; then add the beaten 
volks and the stiffly beaten whites of 1 eggs. Line 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

a mould with butter and bread-crumbs, fill it with 
this mixture, arrange on top a layer of boiled and 
sliced potatoes, dusted with salt, pepper, and but- 
ter. Bake for ^ hour, and serve hot or cold, 
turned out on a dish or in the dish. 

NORMANDY PIE. 

Normandy is best known for its preparations 
of flounder or sole, although it is the birthplace 
of the very best cooks in the world, and is only 
rivalled in fame by the province of Gascony, in 
the south. Because the Pope used to hold court 
at Avignon, French people always declare that the 
environs of that town will be famous among epi- 
cures. For, as some one aptly says, the angels 
taught them how to cook. 

Bake a tali tart of puff paste, lining a high mould 
with it, and turning it out very carefully. Make a 
ragout, or stew, of a large flounder, — or any firm 
white fish, — cutting it into pieces, baking it in a 
dish with butter, herbs, and white wine, only 
enough to cover it. Take out, add to the wine 
12 oysters and 12 mushrooms, cooked in butter, 
and I dozen croutons, or crusts of bread, toasted, 
the size of a quarter, i cup of oyster juice, yolks 
of 2 eggs, beaten, with i cup of white broth, salt, 
and pepper. Let these cook together carefully. 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

then fill the pie with them, the crust having, of 
course, been kept warm. 

TOULOUSE PIE. 

Toulouse is celebrated for its cookery of sweet- 
breads. Make a tall tart or high pie, as in above 
recipe, and fill the crust with a mixture of i cups 
of white stock or Bechamel sauce, 6 button mush- 
rooms, 6 sliced truffles, 6 forcemeat balls made of 
chicken, bread-crumbs, herbs, and yolk of egg, add 
1 sweetbreads, parboiled and cut into i inch 
squares. Heat these, all having been previously 
cooked together, and pour into the vol-au-vent 
or pie. 

BURGUNDY PIE. 

Chop fine the breasts and wings of two chickens, 
add I cup of bread-crumbs, or full half a pint, ^ 
cup of melted butter, salt, pepper, and the beaten 
yolks of 3 eggs. Add i chicken livers and i 
gizzards and the hearts, boiled i hour in i cup 
of stock and cut up, also the stock. Then add 
1 tablespoonfuls of chopped ham and as much 
chopped mushrooms. Stir all, and cook together 
for lo minutes. Line a mould with puff paste, 
fill with this, and cover with paste. Bake i^ 
hours, pour i cup of stock in hole, serve hot or 
cold. 

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PERIGORD PIE. 

Clean and bone three large partridges, seasoning 
well, and stuff them with a rich forcemeat of bread, 
dried herbs, and parsley, and the livers of the birds, 
chopped fine, and an equal amount of grated ham. 
Then pare and chop i pound of truffles, and line 
a dish with puff paste. Bake until the crust is 
yellow, fill with the birds and the truffles, in be- 
tween, adding a cup of stock, and over the top a 
layer of fDrcemeat, over that lay strips of paste, 
criss-cross, and bake it ij4 hours in a moderate 
oven. 

ROMAN PIE. 

Clean and cut up a rabbit into joints, boil it 
until tender in 2 quarts of water with onion, celery, 
carrot, and herbs. This can be used as soup, when 
set aside. Cut all the meat off the rabbit into very 
thin slices, and discard the bones. Have ready 2 
ounces of boiled macaroni, 2 ounces of grated 
cheese, salt, pepper, and j4 pint rich milk, also 
an onion, chopped fine. Mix the milk with the 
cheese, seasoning, and the yolk of an egg, and line 
a dish with the macaroni, fill with the slices of 
rabbit, and pour the sauce over all, covering with 
a thin layer of puff paste. Bake it i hour, turn 
it out, if possible, and serve with a brown or 
tomato sauce. 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

FIFE PIE. (Scotland.) 

Cut a plump young rabbit into joints, make a 
forcemeat of the liver, — or chicken livers, if pre- 
ferred, — parboiled and minced, bread-crumbs, i 
ounces of bacon, thyme, parsley, lemon peel, nut- 
meg, pepper, and salt, and yolk of an egg. Form 
into balls. Arrange the meat in layers, with thin 
slices of bacon between, and the balls here and 
there. Pour in one cup of consomme and a 
spoonful of white wine, cover with puff paste, and 
bake ij^ hours. Best eaten cold, as the Roman 
pie is better eaten hot. 

LARK PIE. (Pithiviers.) 

This is a celebrated pie, eaten only at this 
French town, but an excellent imitation can be 
made in this country, using our own reed birds. 

Line a dish with puff paste, bake it lo minutes 
to color it, and allow it to rise, cover this with a 
layer of sausage meat, and fill it with 12 fine birds, 
stuffed with a forcemeat containing truffles, then 
cover them with another layer of sausage meat, and 
another of paste. Paint the outside with yolk of 
egg to give a fine glaze, and bake it i^^ hours. 
A hole left in the centre must now be filled, pour- 
ing in a cup of melted aspic jelly, flavored with a 
little wine, and the pie served cold. 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

TURKEY PIE. (Amiens.) 

Cut into thin slices the dark meat of a cold 
roast turkey and half as much beef tongue. To 
every pound of both, allow i ounce of butter and 
four truffles, salt and pepper. Make a stock from 
the bones, gravy, and stuffing, with i pint of water, 
onion, carrot, and herbs, also a bayleaf ; when this 
has cooked i hour, reduce it to a cupful. Pour 
it over the meat and truffles, arranged in a dish, 
and cover the top with a thin layer of pastry or 
a thick layer of bread-crumbs. Bake i hour, 
serve hot or cold. 

DUCK PIE. (Chartres.) 

Line a dish with puff paste, bake it to color it, 
and then fill it. Mix i pound of sausage meat 
with onion, parsley, salt, and pepper, chopping 
the onion fine. Cut into thin slices the meat of 
2 fine cooked ducks, — if made of the remains of 
roast duck less sausage will be needed, — let these 
slices be left for an hour in a mixture of olive oil, 
pepper, onion juice, and tarragon vinegar, then 
drain and arrange in layers in the dish, with the 
sausage meat between. Cover with a fancy lid 
of paste, egg it to make it glaze, and bake it 
i^ hours. Serve hot or cold. 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

GOOSE PIE. (Strasburg.) 

Cut the meat from the bones of a roast goose, 
and put the bones, gravy, and stuffing in a quart 
of water with herbs and a carrot, celery, and an 
onion. When it has cooked 2 hours, strain it, 
and reduce it to a pint. Arrange a layer of boiled 
and mashed onions in a dish, along the sides and 
bottom, seasoned to taste, then a layer of meat, 
and so on, until full. Pour in the sauce, to which 
is added a spoonful of sherry and Y^ cup of stewed 
tomatoes. Put a lid of paste on top, and bake i 
hours. Serve hot. 

IMITATION PATE DE FOIES GRAS. (France.) 

The French make an excellent liver pie, cheaper 
than those of geese livers made in Strasburg. 

Parboil and drain a fine tender calf's liver, chop 
it very fine, discarding all tough bits, and adding 
as much cold boiled beef tongue, free from skin 
and fat, which must be cut into dice, i dozen 
mushrooms, also cut up, salt, pepper, parsley, and 
1 onions minced and fried in butter. Line a dish 
with puff paste, fill with these, after it has been 
baked ten minutes to color it, and first adding 3 
eggs, well beaten. Strips of pie-crust can be laid 
on top. Bake it one hour. Serve cold. 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

RABBIT PIE. (Saxony.) 

Clean and cut into joints a fine young rabbit. 
Chop I pound of fresh pork and yi pound of 
veal suet, with a laurel leaf (bayleaf), an onion, 
thyme, parsley, pepper, salt, and 2 cloves. Line 
a dish with this forcemeat, lay the rabbit on top, 
in alternate layers, adding 3 hard-boiled eggs, 
sliced, 6 mushrooms, and 6 oysters, finally i glass 
of cider or white wine. Let there be a layer of 
forcemeat, covered with bread-crumbs, on top of 
all, cover closely ^ hour, then let it brown while 
baking. Serve hot or cold. 



CHICKEN PIE (as made in England). 

Cut into dice 2 ounces ham, 4 mushrooms, and 
4 trufiles, add 2 ounces butter mixed with i ounce 
of flour and ^ pint of white stock and a spoonful 
of rum or brandy. Add, after stirring on the fire 
for 10 minutes, 2 cups of chopped cold chicken, — 
not cut too fine, — 8 gherkins, cut in slices, some 
parsley, seasoning, and 3 anchovies, chopped and 
boned. Line a dish with paste, bake it until yel- 
low, fill with this, with paste on top. Bake it an 
hour, and serve cold. Used for picnics on the 
Thames, or when shooting. 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

CHICKEN PIE (as made in France). 

Joint a large chicken, parboil it, using the water 
for soup, and cut the meat from the bones and 
skin. Make a forcemeat of the liver, i ounces of 
ham, 4 ounces of tongue, 2 ounces of butter, and 
the yolks of 3 boiled eggs. Season, add onion 
juice, and chop fine. Line a dish with paste, bake 
it yellow, fill in alternate layers of meat and the 
forcemeat. Add i cup of stock mixed with a 
tablespoonful of lemon juice, a layer of paste, and 
bake it i^ hours. Serve hot or cold. 

CHICKEN TART (invented for Madame de Pompadour). 

Parboil i pound of spaghetti, being careful not 
to break it. Drain it, and line a mould, twisting it 
all around. Fill the centre with a mixture of 2 
cups of cold chopped chicken, j4 cup of cream 
blended with some flour and butter and yolk of an 
egg, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and chopped parsley. 
Steam it like a custard, i hour, turn it out on a 
dish, and pour around it some good tomato sauce. 
Serve hot. 

HUMBLE PIE. (England.) 

This is a very old dish. Many years ago, in 
feudal times, the retainers, " below the salt," had 
a pie, so named, made of the meaner parts of the 
9 129 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

game killed in the chase. Nowadays, the same 
proportions of suet, herbs, bread, etc., are cooked 
with veal, which results in a pie not to be despised. 
Mince finely lyi pounds of the fillet of veal, 
adding i dozen oysters, i pound of beef suet, 
parsley, thyme, sweet marjoram, pepper, and salt, 
a teaspoonful of sherry, and the yolks of two eggs, 
also I cup of bread-crumbs. Beat and stir to a 
smooth mixture, line a dish with paste, as above, 
and when it is yellow, fill with this, cover with 
strips of paste, and bake it in a slow oven i hours. 
Serve with a brown sauce. 

ANNASTICH. (A German-Jewish recipe.) 

Wash I pound of rice, add i quart of good 
white broth, and cook it, stirring often, for ^ hour. 
Add some parsley and thyme and a chicken, 
stuffed and tied as for roasting, and, covering 
closely, cook slowly until the fowl is tender. Take 
out the chicken, strain the broth, add the yolk of 
an egg, the juice of a lemon, and ^ a teaspoonful 
of saffron, — which may be omitted, — and pour 
over. 



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Chapter Four — Vegetables and Salads 

GREEN PEAS (as cooked in France). 

Blend i tablespoonful of butter with a teaspoon- 
ful of flour, add i pint of young peas and a small 
bunch of parsley, i cup of water, and 6 shallots or 
tiny onions. Cook 40 minutes. Take out the 
parsley, then add salt, pepper, and a teaspoonful 
of sugar, yolk of i ^^<g^ and a small piece of butter. 
Stir and serve hot, on toast, if desired. 

LETTUCE AND PEAS. (Provincial France.) 

Parboil 4 heads of lettuce in i quart of broth, — 
which can be used as soup, — remove the centres 
and fill with green peas, a little chopped onion, 
and a little flour. Tie these neatly, cover with ^ 
pint white stock, and simmer for an hour. Untie, 
arrange on toast, and pour the sauce over, adding 
salt and pepper. 

PUREE OF PEAS. (French.) 

This puree of peas, or of any other vegetable, 
can be served as a separate course or for the foun- 
dation of an entree, chops, or sweetbreads, or to fill 
an omelette, or garnish a roast. Boil i quart of 

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green or dried peas with a bunch of parsley, an 
onion sliced, salt, and a little butter, using only 
enough water to moisten. Drain, when tender, 
press through a sieve, add some more butter, a 
pinch of sugar, and some pepper. Smooth into 
a neat mound, if used for a garnish. 

PEAS PORRIDGE. (England.) 

Cook I quart of peas in a quart of water, with a 
tablespoonful of dried mint, and a tablespoonful 
of butter. Boil, covered, slowly for 2 hours, add 
salt and pepper, and some butter rolled in flour. 
Stir, add a pint of hot milk, and press through a 
sieve. It should be thick. Serve hot. 

ASPARAGUS (as cooked in France). 

Wash the heads and boil in salted water for 20 
minutes. Drain, cut off the green or tender parts, 
mince it finely, with an onion to each bundle, 
chopped fine, salt, pepper, and the beaten yolk of 
an egg. Stir until hot, and pour over slices of 
toast. 

ASPARAGUS (as cooked in Spain). 

Boil the asparagus in salted water, drain it, and 
cut into equal lengths, discarding the tough parts. 
Arrange on a dish, and edge it with i dozen freshly 
poached eggs, cooked in vinegar and water. Pour 

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n. . . 

With a Saucepan over the Sea 

over all a good sauce, Hollandaise or Bechamel or 
caper. Serve hot. 

-^^ SPINACH (as cooked in France and Germany). 

Plunge the spinach into boiling salted water ; 
when tender, drain it and chop very fine. Add to 
each pint, i ounce of butter, i ounce of flour, and 
I gill of cream or white stock. Season with salt, 
pepper, and nutmeg. Press through a sieve, and 
arrange on a dish in a mound. Garnish with 
sliced hard-boiled eggs. 

STRING BEANS (as cooked in Brittany). 

String and cut into dice i quart of nice young 
beans, boil in salted water ; when tender, drain them 
and put in a saucepan with an ounce of butter, a 
tablespoonful of finely chopped onion, and fry 
them lightly. Add parsley, pepper, and salt, i cup 
of white broth or hot milk, and the juice of a 
lemon. Serve at once. 

WHITE BEANS (as cooked in Brittany). 

These are often served with roast lamb or leg 
of mutton. Boil i pound of dried beans, drain 
them, — they should have been soaked overnight, 
— add 1 ounces butter, a tablespoonful of lemon 
juice or tarragon vinegar, and salt, pepper, and a 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

cupful of a consomme. Press through a sieve, and 
arrange in a mound. 

POTATOES, PILGRIM STYLE. (A Trappist recipe.) 

Boil and slice 6 large potatoes ; make a frying 
batter of i cup of milk, i egg, beaten, 4 table- 
spoonfuls of flour, and some parsley, adding 4 
sliced onions, fried in butter. Stir these, add the 
potatoes, and barely enough milk to cover, also 
some chopped parsley, a little nutmeg, and plenty 
of bread-crumbs on top of the dish. Bake until 
brown. 

POTATOES (as cooked in Mantua). 

Beat 1 cups of freshly mashed potatoes with i 
cup of white stock, the yolks of 2 eggs, and a table- 
spoonful of cream or butter, salt, pepper, and nut- 
meg. Pour into a shallow dish, smooth the top, 
and cover closely with grated Parmesan cheese. 
Bake j4 hour, until brown. 

POTATOES (as cooked in Flanders). 

Boil and slice 4 large potatoes, and add a table- 
spoonful of chopped onion, as much parsley, pep- 
per, salt, and ^ cup of rich milk. Stir and pour 
into a dish, cover with the yolk of an egg, mixed 
with ^2 cup of bread-crumbs. Bake until brown. 

^34 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

BAKED TOMATOES (as cooked in Sicily). 

Take out the centres from 6 large tomatoes, put 
these centres with i tablespoonfuls of butter or 
olive oil, I onion, and a bit of bacon chopped fine, 
some parsley, salt, pepper, and a clove pounded, 
also a tablespoonful of sherry or any white wine. 
Cook this, add y^ cup of bread-crumbs or enough 
to fill the tomatoes, dust with bread-crumbs and 
grated cheese, and bake ^ hour. Serve with a 
white sauce. 

BAKED TOMATOES. (Florentine style.) 

Take out the centres of 6 large tomatoes. Rub 
a clove of garlic across an earthen casserole, and fry 
in it an onion, chopped, in a spoonful of butter or 
olive oil. Add 6 mushrooms, 2 large livers of 
chickens, both minced finely, and a spoonful of 
lemon juice. Cook these, add yolks of i eggs 
and sufficient bread-crumbs. Fill the tomatoes, 
bake them '^ hour. 

CELERY (as cooked in Italy). 

Take off the roots and tops of 4 heads of celery. 
These can be used for flavoring soup. Parboil 
the celery, then cook it with i ounce butter, salt, 
pepper, a tablespoonful of minced ham, and a cup 
of white stock. When tender, strain the sauce, 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

arrange the celery on pieces of toast, pour the 
sauce over, having added to it the yolk of an egg 
and a tablespoonful of grated cheese. Bake until 
brown. 

CAULIFLOWER, AU GRATIN. (Italy.) 

Wash and trim 2 fine heads of cauliflower, boil 
it in salted water, then drain it and arrange in a 
pudding dish. Make a sauce of i cup of white 
stock mixed with ^ cup of milk or cream, yolks 
of 1 eggs, and i ounce of grated cheese. Stir on 
the fire until thick, pour it smoothly over the 
cauliflower, dust thickly with crumbs and cheese, 
adding salt, and bake half an hour. 

CAULIFLOWER FRITTERS. (Italy.) 

The Italians make everything into fritters. 
Fritters are, like macaroni, a national dish. 

Parboil and drain a fine fresh cauliflower, cut it 
into branches and dip each into a frying batter. 
Make this of a tablespoonful of flour, i ounce of 
butter, y^ cup of milk, and the yolk of an egg 
well beaten, salt, and pepper. Fry in boiling fat. 
Serve alone, or with a good sauce. 

MUSHROOMS ON TOAST. (A French recipe.) 

SHce and peel i pound of fresh mushrooms, add 
yi cup of water, 2 ounces of butter, salt, pepper, 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

and juice of a lemon. Cook lo minutes, strain 
it, add to the sauce ^ cup of white stock, the 
yolk of an egg, and a little nutmeg. Toast 3 large 
pieces of bread, put the mushrooms on top, and 
pour the sauce over ; garnish with parsley. 

MUSHROOMS (as cooked in Southern France, or Provence). 

Peel, slice, and fry i pound of fresh mushrooms 
in some butter with onion, a clove of garlic, if 
desired, salt, pepper, and a cup of stewed tomatoes, 
cooked with a tablespoonful of stock, some pars- 
ley, and a bayleaf. Add some chopped capers, and 
serve at once, hot. 

MUSHROOMS WITH EGGS. (A Hungarian recipe.) 

This is excellent. Peel and slice i pound of 
fresh mushrooms. Cook them until tender — 
remember that mushrooms, like liver and kidney, 
must not be cooked too long or they will be 
tough — in sufficient white broth to cover, adding 
some butter, onion, herbs, and seasoning. Press 
this through a sieve on an earthen plate, lay on 
it, very carefully, four or more poached eggs. 
Add salt and pepper, and serve. 

PUREE OF MUSHROOMS. (Paris.) 

Cook I pound of mushrooms in stock to cover, 
as above, take out the mushrooms and add to 

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the sauce i ounce of grated ham, i cup of stewed 
tomatoes, some chopped onion, nutmeg, parsley, 
and a bayleaf, salt, and pepper. Cook until thick, 
add the mushrooms and press through a sieve. 
Served in Paris as a sauce for baked shad, filling 
for an omelette, or, by adding an equal amount of 
bread-crumbs, baked in a dish. Or else add to 
the puree a glass of Burgundy, and serve, with 
slices of hard-boiled eggs, on toast. 

CARROTS (as cooked in Lille, Flanders). 

Scrape and slice i pound of young carrots. 
Add y^, pint water, i ounce butter, a little salt, 
and a pinch of sugar. Cook, covered, until tender, 
add the yolks of 2 eggs, beaten in 3^ cup of 
milk or cream, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and chopped 
parsley. 

EGGPLANT (as cooked in Provence). 

Rub the saucepan with garlic, put in 1 small 
eggplants which have been sliced and broiled over 
the fire, a little butter or olive oil, an onion, 
chopped fine, some parsley, seasoning, a cup of 
stewed tomatoes, the juice of a lemon, and a spoon- 
ful of anchovy paste. Cook until tender, and ar- 
range on toast or as a garnish for macaroni. 

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FRIED EGGPLANT. (Naples.) 

Pare and slice and drain i large eggplants, dip 
each slice in egg, crumbs, and grated cheese. Fry- 
till brown, or else arrange on a dish and bake. 
Serve with white or tomato sauce, or one of 
capers. 

STUFFED EGGPLANT. (A Turkish recipe.) 

Cut off the tops of 2 small eggplants, chop the 
inside with as much calf's liver and bread-crumbs, 
herbs, egg, and a little salt and pepper. Fill, add 
crumbs and butter, bake yi hour. 

STUFFED CUCUMBERS. (Turkey and Greece.) 

Peel and cut off the end of fine large cucumbers, 
scoop out the seeds, and fill with a mixture of cold 
boiled rice, chopped chicken or lamb, herbs, and 
white stock. Cover with i cup of white stock or 
a cup of milk, and stew till tender. Add to the 
sauce the yolk of an egg, juice of a lemon, some 
flour and butter, parsley, and a tablespoonful of 
capers. Strain before adding the latter, pour over 
and serve hot. 

STUFFED VEGETABLE MARROW OR SQUASH. 
(Austria.) 

Peel and remove the centre from a large, flat 
squash, slicing it across. Fill both these halves with 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

a forcemeat made of cold minced veal or game or 
fowl or fish, and an equal amount of bread-crumbs, 
^ cup of milk or white stock, herbs, and season- 
ing. Tie these two parts together, and cook in 
white broth or water. Drain, put in a dish, pour 
over a sauce made from stock, and serve with a 
border of boiled rice or mashed potatoes. 

BOILED ONIONS. (A French recipe.) 

Peel and fry 12 small onions, adding a pinch of 
sugar, salt, and pepper. When brown, add i cup 
or more of consomme, to cover, set in the oven 
with a plate over the dish, and serve when tender. 

STUFFED ONIONS. (Germany.) 

Parboil 6 large onions. Drain them, cut out 
the centres, and chop them with a cup of bread- 
crumbs, 6 mushrooms, 1 tablespoonfuls of sausage 
meat, 4 tablespoonfuls of capers, and i of gher- 
kin pickles, minced parsley, salt, and pepper. Mix 
with ^ cup of stewed tomatoes, fill closely, and 
bake 20 minutes. Serve with a good white sauce. 

CABBAGE (as cooked in Provence). 

Remove the outer leaves from 1 fine heads of cab- 
bage, slice them, and parboil in salted water. Drain 
them, add salt, pepper, 1 ounces butter, parsley, 
thyme, a bayleaf, a clove, and garlic or chopped 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

onion, and i pint of white stock. Cook for i 
hour, strain the stock and reduce it to half, pour 
over the cabbage, on thin sHces of toast. 

BAKED CABBAGE (as cooked in Normandy 
and Flanders). 

Take off the outer leaves of a large head of 
cabbage. Scoop out the heart, — having first par- 
boiled the cabbage, — stuff it with bread-crumbs or 
boiled rice, mixed with some bacon, cold minced 
mutton or veal or fish, herbs, onions, yolks of 2 
eggs, and seasoning. Tie neatly, boil in stock or 
hot water i hour, strain the stock, and pour over, 
or make a good sauce ; serve with potato croquettes. 

ARTICHOKES (as cooked in Lyons). 

Trim 6 large artichokes, cut into quarters, and 
parboil lo minutes in salted water. Drain, put 
them with i ounces butter, and fry them, add 
juice of a lemon, salt, pepper, a glass of white 
wine, and ^ cup of stock. When tender, arrange 
on toast, and pour sauce over all. 

RICE (as cooked in Andalusia, Spain). 

Warm yi pint of olive oil or butter, add ^ 
pound boiled rice, i^ pounds of chicken, cut 
into dice, onion, parsley, a pinch of saffron, and 
seasoning. In Spain, garlic is used, but it is 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

not necessary. Cook 45 minutes, stir well, and 
arrange on a dish. Brown with a salamander, and 
squeeze a lemon over it before serving. 

RICE. (A convent recipe from the Carmelites.) 

Wash and drain ^ pound of rice, cook it with 
plenty of salted water until tender. Drain again, 
let it dry, add 3^ ounce of butter, a pinch of mixed 
herbs, salt, pepper, and the meat of a dried had- 
dock which has been soaked, dried, and flaked. 
Mix and pour in a dish, cover with the whites of 
3 boiled eggs, also the yolks, chopped fine, yi cup 
of stock, — made from fish-bones, — and plenty of 
grated cheese. Bake ^ hour and serve, garnished 
with parsley. 

BORDER OF RICE. (Toulouse.) 

Boil and mash i^ pounds of rice, add i ounce 
of butter, and press it into a ring-shaped mould. 
Bake it like a custard, and turn out on a dish. 
Make a ragout or stew of i cup of white stock, yi 
cup of cream or milk, yolk of an egg, seasoning, i 
pair of boiled and sliced sweetbreads, and 6 mush- 
rooms, cut up. Cook this until smooth, and pour 
into the circle of rice. Serve hot. 

INDIAN CURRY OF FOWL. (Used in England.) 

Mix 1 teaspoonfuls of curry powder with 1 
of flour, cut up and fry a chicken in butter or 

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dripping, with an onion and some parsley, add 
the curry and flour, i^ cups of stock, and i cup 
of rice or grated cocoanut, wet with the juice of a 
lemon. Stir and serve. 

CURRY OF SWEETBREADS. (England.) 

Cut into dice equal parts of boiled sweetbreads 
and chicken, mixed with i teaspoonfuls of chopped 
bacon, i ounces of butter, an onion, and seasoning. 
Fry these carefully, add two spoonfuls of curry 
powder, a tablespoonful of flour, and enough white 
broth to moisten. Stir and cook 20 minutes, add 
the juice of a lemon, and serve with a border of 
rice. 

INDIAN PILAU. 

Cut up a fowl and fry it in butter, add a spoon- 
ful of curry powder, a tablespoonful of capers and 
gherkins, mixed, also a cup of tomatoes and a cup 
of rice. Stir and cook, and serve hot. 

INDIAN BURDWAIN. (England.) 

Add to I pint cold water, i tablespoonful of 
chopped onion, salt, pepper, a tablespoonful of 
anchovy sauce, i ounce butter mixed with flour, a 
tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, and as much 
Madeira wine, if convenient. Cook until thick, 
add any cold game or fowl or meat, cut into dice, 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

cook 20 minutes, add the juice of an orange, and 
serve with a border of rice. 

MACARONI. (Bologna.) 

Parboil in plenty of salted water i^ pound of 
macaroni, drain it, add sufficient white stock to 
cover it, and cook until tender and all the broth is 
absorbed, then put it in a shallow dish, grate cheese 
over it, adding ^ pound of sliced and parboiled 
mushrooms ; brown slightly with a salamander, and 
serve with spinach. 

MACARONI. (Genoa.) 

Boil 8 ounces for 20 minutes in salted water, 
drain it, add i quart of consomme ; when cooked 
and absorbed, add i teaspoonful of French mus- 
tard mixed with i ounce of butter and % pound 
grated cheese, some pepper, and a teaspoonful of 
onion juice. Stir well, add crumbs over the top, 
and bake until brown. 

SPAGHETTI. (Prevailing method all over Italy.) 

Wash and parboil yi pound of spaghetti, drain 
it, add I pint of stewed tomatoes, mixed with a 
little stock or beef extract, some chopped onion 
and herbs, also a small piece of ham, cut up. This 
must be cooked for 20 minutes, then strained and 
seasoned, before pouring it over the spaghetti. 

144 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

Italians also use a clove of garlic in this sauce, 
but that can be left out. Stir the spaghetti well ; 
serve with a plateful of grated Parmesan cheese. 

SPAGHETTI. (Amalfi.) 

Parboil and drain }( pound of spaghetti, add yi 
pint of veal broth and i tablespoonfuls of grated 
cheese, preferably Parmesan, mix well, pour into a 
dish, arrange the yolks of 6 hard-boiled eggs, at 
intervals, and a thin layer of puff paste, on the 
top. Bake it until brown. 

MACARONI, A LA PONTIFFE. (Rome.) 

This is also made of spaghetti. The original 
recipe, however, calls for 8 ounces of ribbon maca- 
roni, or lazagnes, cooked 15 minutes in boiling 
water, and drained. Line a buttered mould with 
this ; fill it with a forcemeat of bread, herbs, and 
chopped liver, thin slices of chicken and ham, 
with sliced hard-boiled eggs, and button mush- 
rooms. Add a cup of chicken stock and bake ^ 
hour. Turn it out and serve with a sauce. 

MACARONI. (Palermo.) 

Mince i onion, and fry it In butter, add a little 

flour, and ^ can of tomatoes, salt, pepper, a 

spoonful of sugar, and cook 20 minutes. Strain 
10 145 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

it, add I cup each of cooked macaroni, chopped 
ham, and chicken, and 3 green peppers, cooked, 
and finely shredded, and free from seeds, the 
yolk of I egg, and ^ cup of boiling milk or 
broth. Stir well, and serve hot. 

PHEASANT AND MACARONI. 

This also is a luxurious dish, prevalent in all of 
the Italian cities. It can be made of any kind of 
game. 

Chop the meat of duck or partridges, rabbits or 
guinea fowl, into dice, using the remains of roast 
birds, put the bones and trimmings, gravy and 
filling with water to cover, onion, parsley, a bay- 
leaf and a carrot, and let it cook slowly. To each 
^ pound of meat add 2 chopped shallots, salt, 
pepper, nutmeg, a tablespoonful of mushroom 
catchup and as much sherry, the sauce strained, 
flour, and butter. Add 6 ounces of macaroni, 
cooked in stock, put in a dish and bake it. 

GNOCCHI. (Italian savory fritters.) 

Chop Y^ pound of the white meat of cold cooked 
chicken very fine, make an equal amount of paste, 
such as used for eclairs and cream puffs (no sugar), 
chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and onion juice, also 
a tablespoonful of grated cheese. Take this, well 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

mixed, in large spoonfuls and poach them in boiling 
broth, drain them, arrange on a dish in a neat pile, 
cover with grated cheese, and bake until brown. 
Serve with tomato sauce. 

RAVIOL,. (Italian forcemeat balls.) 

These are used in soups, to garnish roasts or 
entrees or as a separate course. Chop some lamb 
or chicken very fine, add to every 2 ounces, i 
ounce of bread-crumbs, i ounce grated ham, i 
onion, grated, yolks of i hard-boiled eggs, mashed 
with a tablespoonful of grated Parmesan cheese. 
Add, mixing well, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and the 
yolk of an egg. Roll out some good puff paste 
very thin, cut into rounds, fill with a spoonful of 
this, pressing i pieces together. Poach them in 
boiling stock and serve on a bed of asparagus or 
spinach. 

RAVIOLI. (Another recipe.) 

Chop % pound of veal very fine, add i ounces 
of sausage meat, i ounces butter, i ounce beef 
marrow, i teaspoonful of mixed herbs, salt, pepper, 
I cup of spinach, cooked, drained, and chopped 
fine, with ^ pound of grated cheese, 2 eggs well 
beaten. Stir well, form into balls, lay them on a 
dish, dust thickly with grated cheese, and bake 
until brown. Serve with a sauce. 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

BADEN NOODLES. (Germany.) 

Melt 6 ounces butter, and mix with it slowly 
the yolks of 2 eggs and i white. Stir until frothy, 
add salt and pepper, 5 ounces of flour, very slowly, 
then the yolks of 1 more eggs, well beaten. Drop 
in spoonfuls in boiling water, drain, when puffy, — 
about 10 minutes, — arrange neatly on a dish, dust 
with grated cheese, and bake till brown. Serve 
with a good sauce, or with some vegetable, artisti- 
cally garnished. 

FRENCH POTATO CAKES. 

Mash 3 boiled potatoes with 2 ounces of butter, 
some grated cheese, — a heaping tablespoonful, — 
salt, pepper, and 5 beaten eggs. Form this into 
flat cakes, and fry in boiling fat. Serve as a border^ 
or in a mound, with some parsley along the edge. 

POTATO SOUFFLE. (Germany.) 

Boil and mash 8 potatoes, press through a 
sieve, add 2 onions, and 2 tablespoonfuls of ham, 
chopped fine, and both cooked in butter, salt, 
pepper, and the yolks of 3 eggs, and parsley. 
Add finally ^ cup of stock, and the beaten whites 
of eggs. Bake in a dish, with bread-crumbs over. 

MUSHROOMS AND CREAM. (Northern France.) 

Clean and trim i pound of fresh mushrooms, 
fry them in i ounce of butter, adding pepper and 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

salt, cooking 6 minutes. Add 2 tablespoonfuls 
of white stock, some parsley, and yi cup of cream. 
Cook 4 minutes longer, and pour over slices of 
toast. 

CARROTS AND ASPARAGUS. (Alsace-Lorraine.) 

Peel, and slice the carrots into small squares, 
add as much asparagus ; also cooked, cut into 
the same-sized pieces, using only the best part. 
Cover with white stock or milk, and heat well 
together. If milk is used, add flour, butter, yolk 
of an egg, and parsley. 

HARICOT BEANS (as cooked in Burgundy). 

Burgundy being the province where wine is 
plentiful because of the vineyards, everything 
there is cooked in it. Soak Y2 pound of red 
beans overnight. Drain them, add i ounce of 
butter, an onion, cut fine, i clove, some parsley 
and thyme, and enough consomme to cover. Boil 
slowly until tender but dry. Take out the herbs, 
add salt and pepper, and ^ cup of red wine. 
Serve hot, as a separate course. 

SAUER KRAUT. (Germany.) 

Shred finely 3 white cabbages, add i ounce of 
salt, I cup of water, and ^ spoonful of cream of 
tartar. Cover and mash, keep it under a weight, 

149 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

in a warm place. In 3 weeks it will be ready for 
use. It must be cooked several hours before 
serving, and eaten with bacon, or small sausages. 

LETTUCE SALAD. (Normandy.) 

Wash and pick 2 heads of salad lettuce. Dry 
the leaves, and tear them apart. Make a dressing 
of salt, pepper, yolk of 2 eggs, ^ cup of cream, 
I dozen capers, and 4 teaspoonfuls of tarragon 
vinegar. Beat well, and pour over the leaves, 
toss and stir until every leaf is coated. 

GASCONY SALAD. (France.) 

Trim, wash, and cut up a head of endive, dry it, 
and cover it with a dressing of 2 parts of olive oil 
to I of tarragon vinegar, salt, pepper, a teaspoon- 
ful of anchovy paste, and a pinch of celery seed. 
Have in the bowl a crust of bread rubbed with 
garlic, and toss salad and dressing together for 10 
minutes, then remove the crust and serve. 

FISH AND ONION SALAD. (Nantes.) 

Peel and core 6 small white onions, put a bit 
of butter in the centre of each, and bake them, in 
a covered pan, i hour, until tender. When cool, 
slice them, add 6 large sardines, free from bones 
and oil and skin, cut up, and 6 sliced hard-boiled 
eggs, some chopped parsley, and salt, and pepper, 

150 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

with a mixture of olive oil, and lemon juice, and 
tarragon vinegar. Mix all well, arrange on a dish, 
with slices of toast and parsley, very cold. 

SALAD OF BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 

Boil I pint of sprouts, and drain them ; when 
tender, sprinkle with chopped onion, olives, wal- 
nut kernels, and capers, in equal parts, all chopped 
fine, and two teaspoonfuls of lemon juice. Pour 
over these, when well mingled, a good mayonnaise 
dressing, and serve. 

SWEDISH SALAD. 

Bone and skin 4 sardines, cut each into 4 
pieces, add an equal amount of cold sliced and 
cooked meat, in pieces i inch square, 30 drops 
of onion juice, i cooked and sliced beet, i cooked 
and cut up potato, a spoonful of chopped parsley. 
Mingle these in a bowl lined with lettuce, cover 
with a dressing of 6 tablespoonfuls of oil, 2 of 
vinegar, — tarragon preferred, — salt, and pepper. 
Mix these carefully, and garnish with hard-boiled 
eggs. 

RUSSIAN SALAD. 

Cut into dice i cup each of cold chicken, 
tongue, and fish, — all cooked, of course. Arrange 
on a dish, in three parts, the tongue in the middle, 
with a border of 2 carrots, 4 potatoes, and i cup 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

of string beans, being careful to keep each distinct, 
and a dressing over all as above. Before serving, 
pour a mayonnaise over it, evenly. 

RUSSIAN SALAD (without meat). 

Cut 8 carrots into dice, 3 raw tomatoes in slices, 
and chop i onion and a handful of watercress. 
Mix it with y^ pint of mayonnaise, add the 
chopped onion, and pour this over the rest, on a 
bed of lettuce leaves. Garnish with a tablespoon- 
ful of capers, here and there. 

SALMON SALAD. (Norway.) 

Remove the skin and bones of i pound of cold 
cooked fish and flake it into pieces with a fork. 
Mix it with the sliced yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs, 
a tablespoonful each of chopped olives and capers, 
and gherkin pickles, then add enough mayonnaise 
dressing, and arrange on a dish edged with lettuce 
leaves and pieces of aspic jelly, if this is at hand. 

SWEETBREAD SALAD. (Austria.) 

Parboil one pair of large sweetbreads and cut 
them into dice ; in cooking them season the water 
with onion, carrot, celery, and parsley, or else cook 
them in some white broth. Mix the pieces with 
an equal amount of cooked green peas, and cover 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

with mayonnaise. Stir well ; serve on a border of 
lettuce. This is both dainty and good. 

CHICKEN SALAD. (England.) 

Mix I tablespoonful of capers, i ounces of 
chopped ham, 3 hard-boiled and sliced eggs, some 
tarragon leaves and chopped chives, or young 
onion, i anchovy, free from bones and pounded, all 
well together. Cut a cooked chicken into neat 
strips, and dip each into this, mixed with sufficient 
aspic jelly, melted, to stiffen when cool. Arrange 
these strips, thickly covered with this mixture, in 
a ring ; fill the centre with cooked carrots and 
celery, cut into dice, and as much green peas, cov- 
ering them with a thick mayonnaise. Set on ice 
until stiff, and serve very cold. Garnish with 
parsley. 

ALEX. DUMAS' RECIPE FOR SALAD. 

Cut into dice cooked white potatoes and beets in 
equal parts, add half as much raw sliced tomatoes, 
pickled gherkins, and anchovies, or tunny fish, 
arrange on a:' dish with chopped onion and sliced 
eggs, a French dressing being poured over and all 
mixed. Add the yolk of an egg blended with a 
tablespoonful of olive oil and a teaspoonful of 
French mustard, then serve with a border of 
lettuce. 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

ONION AND PEPPER SALAD. 

(This recipe was obtained from the chef of an 
exclusive Paris restaurant and is unknown to most 
people.) Chop 6 green peppers, free from seeds, 
and I large Bermuda onion very, very fine. Add 
salt, pepper, French mustard, yi pint olive oil and 
juice of a lemon, mixed with one inch of preserved 
ginger, cut up fine. Serve on a bed of lettuce 
leaves ice cold. 

SALAD FRANCILLON. (Paris.) 

Pare and slice i pound of small potatoes. Cook 
them slowly in i pint of consomme for 20 min- 
utes, until tender but not broken. Then drain 
them and set aside. Parboil 3 dozen small oys- 
ters. Wash, peel, and slice thinly ^ pound of 
truffles. Cover them with 2 gills of sherry, add a 
slice of onion, and cook for 5 minutes. Drain 
and cool all these, arrange them on a dish and 
pour over a French dressing, to which is added ^ 
glass of champagne or Chateau Yquem ; pour this 
carefully and serve ice cold. 

SALMAGUNDI. (Old English salad.) 

Wash and split and remove the bones of two 
large Dutch or Scotch herring, and mince the fish 
with the white meat of a fowl, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 

154 




ASPARAGUS AND SHRIMP SALAD, GERMANY 
{See page ijj) 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

I onion, i anchovy, a tablespoonful of grated 
ham or tongue, and season with salad oil, vinegar, 
pepper, and salt. Then arrange in a mound on a 
dish and serve with a border of lettuce. The 
recipe was brought from Spain to England in early 
times. 

ASPARAGUS AND SHRIMP SALAD. (Germany.) 

Boil 27 asparagus tips, cut into short pieces, 
without ends that are hard ; add an equal amount 
of cooked and sliced shrimps. Mix these well 
with a mayonnaise dressing, using capers, French 
mustard, and a border of lettuce leaves. Serve 
with cheese and crackers. 

ABERDEEN SANDWICHES. 

Chop fine 1 ounces cold chicken, i ounce of 
ham or tongue ; add two tablespoonfuls of white 
sauce and a pinch of curry powder. Fry some 
squares of toast in butter, cover with this, and 
bake for 10 minutes. Serve hot as an appetizer. 

SALMON SANDWICHES. (England.) 

Chop y^ pound of salmon, free from bones and 
skin, very fine. Add an equal amount of mayon- 
naise and two tablespoonfuls of chopped capers. 
Beat well and spread between thin slices of bread. 

155 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

FRENCH CHEESE SANDWICHES. 

Slice brown bread very thin, spread with a layer 
of jam or marmalade, strawberry or peach pre- 
ferred, and over this a layer of cream cheese, very 
fresh. Cover with another slice of bread. Serve 
for afternoon tea. 

FRENCH SWEET SANDWICHES. 

Roll puff paste into very thin layers, cut into 
strips, and bake until crisp. Take these, about one 
inch wide and three long, spread with whipped 
cream and a layer of jam, putting two together. 

FRENCH SAVORY SANDWICHES. 

Make a paste as for eclairs, bake in small pieces, 
and when light split with a knife and fill with 
a mixture of equal parts mayonnaise dressing 
and chopped game or chicken. These are very 
delicate. 



156 



Chapter Five — Cakes, Puddings, and Pastry 

RICHMOND MAIDS OF HONOR. (England.) 

These celebrated cakes, or tarts, were invented by 
Queen Elizabeth, and are still sold at Richmond. 

Beat 2 eggs, add i quart of milk, and the juice 
of a lemon. Set in a pan and skim off the curd. 
Drain it, mix with yolks of 4 eggs, beaten with 
the grated rind of the lemon, some sugar to 
taste, — the lemon can be rubbed on it, in two 
lumps, — a little cinnamon and nutmeg, 6 ounces 
currants and i glass of brandy. Mix well and fill 
shells of puff paste. Bake 2,0 minutes. 

LEMON CAKES, OR KING HENRY'S SHOE STRINGS. 
(England.) 

Beat the yolks of 6 eggs well, add Y?, pound 
sifted sugar, the grated rind of a lemon, and 2 
tablespoonfuls of orange-flower water. Beat all 
well, add slowly 6 ounces flour, then whites of 
eggs beaten stiff, and the juice of a lemon. Pour 
into ladyfinger tins or on a large pan, very thin ; 
bake i hour slowly, and cut in strips. 

KING HENRY'S SHOE STRINGS. (Another recipe.) 

Mix i^ pound flour and ^ cup of milk, i^ 
ounces butter, juice of a lemon and sugar to taste. 

157 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

Stir on the fire for lo minutes, take off, and add 
the beaten yolks of 4 eggs and 2 tablespoonfuls 
of chopped almonds. Pour into a pan and bake. 
Cut into strips and dust with sugar. 

QUEEN CHARLOTTE'S CAKE. (England.) 

Mix I pint flour, i cup warm milk, y^ yeast cake, 
and Yi pound butter beaten to a cream with y^ 
pound powdered sugar, 4 eggs, ^ pound chopped 
candied peel, a teaspoonful of cinnamon, and a 
cup of chopped almonds. Mix as usual, let it rise 
before adding i cup more flour and the nuts and 
peel, etc., then let it rise again. Pour into a 
Turk's head mould and bake i hour. While hot, 
pour over a syrup, made of i cup sugar, 2 table- 
spoonfuls of water, and a teaspoonful of vanilla, 
wine, or cordial. Dust the top with powdered 
sugar and serve hot, in slices. 

PARSNIP CAKES. (Very old English recipe.) 

These do not taste of parsnips at all, and can 
be found still in the little country farms or 
cottages. 

Boil 3 parsnips until tender, mash and press 
through a sieve, mix in proportions of i tea- 
cupful to I quart of hot milk, ^ pint of yeast, 
some salt, and flour to make a stiff* batter. Cover, 

158 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

set in a warm place, and when risen to twice its 
size, knead into flat cakes, very thin. These 
must rise again and be baked until brown. Can 
be eaten with butter, like crumpets or scones, or 
with gravy, like Yorkshire pudding, with a roast 
of meat. 



PARKIN CAKES. (England.) 

These are eaten on Guy Fawkes' Day. Mix i^ 
pounds of flour, ^ pound butter, i^ pounds fine 
oatmeal, 2 pounds brown sugar, 2 ounces of pow- 
dered ginger, i pint molasses, 3 teaspoonfuls of 
carbonate of soda, and 2 ounces butter, and a tea- 
spoonful of vanilla or lemon. Let it stand i hour. 
Roll into thin cakes, and bake in a slow oven at 
least an hour. Half the recipe is sufficient for a 
small family. 

SHREWSBURY CAKES. (England.) 

Mix I pound powdered sugar with 2 pounds 
flour, add nutmeg and some caraway seeds, — 
currants may be used instead, — 2 eggs, whites and 
yolks beaten separately, and 6 ounces melted 
butter. Roll out very thin, cut into diamonds, 
and bake. These are very fine, and will keep a 
long while in a tin box. 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

BRANDY SNAPS. (England.) 

Mix ^ pound butter, ^^ pound brown sugar, 
Yz pound flour, and i pint molasses. Drop in 
spoonfuls in a buttered tin, and bake in a hot 
oven. Take out and put near the fire to dry. 
These are favorite cakes with school-children in 
England, and are crisp and curly when rightly 
made. 

HERMITS. (England.) 

Mix 2 eggs, 1 cups brown sugar, ^ cup butter, 
yi a cup of currants, i teaspoonful of chopped 
cloves, the same each of grated nutmeg and soda, 
melted in water, and of cinnamon. Beat all well, 
add enough flour to make a stiffs paste, and roll out 
thin. Cut in rounds, and bake in a hot oven. 

POOR MAN'S CAKE. (England.) 

Rub I pint of flour with a piece of butter the 
size of an egg, well together, add i teaspoonfuls 
baking powder to the flour first. Beat i whole 
egg with I cup of milk and i cup of sugar, pour 
these into the flour and butter, and flavor with 
lemon or nutmeg. Bake in a moderate oven, and 
cut in slices. Ice with sugar icing, if desired. 

SCOTCH CAKES. 

Cream together ^ pound butter and i pound 
sugar, add i pound of flour, a tablespoonful of 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

powdered cinnamon, and ^ pint of milk. Roll 
out very thin, cut in rounds, and bake Y^ hour. 

MANX CAKES. 

Rub the zest of a large lemon on sufficient 
sugar — loaf sugar — to obtain ail, weigh this, and 
add more, enough to make 8 ounces. Pound it, 
add 8 ounces rice flour, beat 8 eggs very light, 
dissolve the sugar in these, adding the flour slowly. 
Stir all, and bake in buttered tins about ^ hour. 

HONEY CAKES. (Basle, Switzerland.) 

Melt 1 ounces butter, add ^ pound of honey, 
stirring well, take off the fire, and let it cool. Add 
the minced rind of a lemon, i ounces sweet almonds, 
chopped fine, a little nutmeg, j^ ounce carbonate 
of soda, dissolved in a little water. Mix these 
well, and set in a cold place 12 hours. Roll out 
Yz inch thick, cut into squares, decorate with nuts 
and chopped citron, then bake 25 minutes in hot 
oven. This recipe makes i dozen. 

ALMOND CAKES. (Pithiviers.) 

This French town is as celebrated for its al- 
mond cakes as Basle is for honey cakes. Travel- 
lers ask for them, but can rarely obtain a recipe for 
either. 

II 161 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

Blanch and pound 8 ounces sweet almonds and 
I ounce bitter almonds, add 6 tablespoonfuls of 
sugar, and 8 eggs well beaten, 6 tablespoonfuls of 
dry flour, and the zest or rind of a lemon. Add 
y^ pound of butter, and stir all lightly. Pour into 
small buttered tins and let it rise before baking, 
covered with paper, for ^ hour. 

NORMANDY SHORT CAKES. 

Mix Yi pound sugar and yi pound fresh butter 
to a cream, add ^ pound flour slowly, roll out 
thin, and cut in rounds. Bake on oiled paper, in 
hot oven, and eat with cream cheese and fruit jam. 

WESTPHALIAN BUTTER CAKES. 

Sift 3 pounds flour, add i cups sugar, 7 eggs 
well beaten, zest of i lemon, ^ pint milk, and y^, 
pound of melted butter. Mix the butter with the 
sugar, add the eggs, then the milk and flour. Beat 
all well, spread on buttered pans, and set to rise. 
Butter the tops, dust with sugar, cinnamon, and 
chopped nuts, prick with a fork here and there, 
and bake till done. Serve hot, cut in slices, for 
lunch or tea. 

NORMANDY SPICE CAKE OR GINGERBREAD. 

This is the cake of the " gingerbread fairs," 
common in rural France. 

162 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

Warm i pint molasses, add yi pound fresh 
butter, yi ounce each of powdered ginger and all- 
spice, a teaspoonful of mixed anise and coriander 
seed, and the rind of a lemon, grated. Add enough 
flour to make a dough, and set it to rise in a cool 
place, add then 2 ounces each of chopped cherries, 
citron, and currants or candied peel, roll out an 
inch thick, cut into rounds or squares, and bake 
in hot oven. It can be iced, if desired. 

NUREMBERG GINGERBREAD. 

Beat 4 eggs, add yi a grated nutmeg, 6 cloves 
pounded, 2 ounces of candied peel chopped fine, 
8 ounces sugar; mix all for 10 minutes, add slowly 
y2 pound flour, a pinch of salt, and a teaspoonful 
of baking powder, then 8 ounces of chopped sweet 
almonds. Stir all well, pour into tins ^ inch deep. 
Bake ^ hour, ice with chocolate, and cut into 
slices or strips. 

GERMAN SUPPER CAKES. 

Make a batter with i pint hot milk, i small cup 
of yeast, and enough flour to make a dough. Set 
it to rise overnight, add the next morning i cup 
of sugar, mixed with i cup of butter and 2 eggs. 
Beat all well, and set to rise. Pour into pie plates, 
adding more flour if needful, and set to rise till 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

light; rub over with 3 tablespoonfuls of cinnamon 
and sugar mixed, and i ounce butter. Bake in hot 
oven, and eat warm, sliced. 

APFEL STRUDEL. (German Apple Cake.) 

This is a very fine cake, but not often made 
properly, as it takes time. Mix i tablespoonful 
of butter with i large cup of flour, add i egg and 
sufficient milk to make a stiff paste. Knead for ^ 
hour, lay aside and cover, near the fire. Mix i 
dozen peeled and sliced apples with 2 cupfuls of 
fried bread-crumbs, }( pound of chopped almonds, 
^ cup of currants or raisins cut up, and i table- 
spoonful of cinnamon. Mix all well, and rolling 
the dough very thin, spread this evenly over it. 
Now fold it and pull until as thin as paper, but not 
broken. Roll up Hke jelly cake, curve in shape 
of an 8, and bake i^ hours, basting often with ^4 
cup of butter. Serve either hot or cold, in slices. 

MADELIENES. (Paris.) 

Beat 4 ounces butter with 3 ounces sugar, add 
the yolks of 4 eggs, a teaspoonful of orange- 
flower water, and the grated rind of a lemon, then 
add 4 ounces flour and the stiffs whites of 4 eggs. 
Fill small pans, buttered, cover with split almonds 
and sifted sugar. Bake 3^ hour in moderate 
oven. 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 



NAPOLEONS. (Paris.) 

Beat 6 ounces butter, 2 ounces sugar, 2 ounces 
sweet chopped almonds ; add ^ pound flour, and 
stir well. Then add the yolk of i egg, roll out 
very thin, and bake in a tin. When cold, cut in 
strips, spread with jam or whipped cream, and put 
two together. 

DELICIEUSES. (Paris.) 

Make the recipe for madelienes into very small 
cakes, bake, then split them. Fill each with cream, 
whipped and sweetened with cordial or wine, put 
them together, and dip each in icing, flavored with 
lemon or strawberry, coff'ee or pistachio. Serve as 
dessert, or at five o'clock tea. 

SAVARIN. (Paris.) 

The Savarin and Baba are so much alike that 
the same recipe will do for both. They are 
familiar to all tourists, and very rich and light. 

Mix I pound sifted flour, 4 ounces sugar, J^ 
pound butter, 8 eggs, and i ounce Vienna 
yeast. Melt the yeast in ^ pint warm milk, and 
set to rise. It is best to add only a little flour, 
then, when risen, the rest. When light, add the 
eggs and sugar and butter melted, and stir till 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

smooth with the rest of the flour. Line a mould 
with butter and chopped almonds, and pour in the 
dough, }i full. When risen to the edge, bake in 
a moderate oven lyi hours. Before turning out, 
gash the top with a knife, pour over it a syrup of 
sugar and water boiled, and some rum, serve on a 
plate decked with raisins or candied fruit. 



BRIOCHES. 

When Marie Antoinette was told that the 
people were starving for bread, she said, " Give 
them brioches ! " These are a troublesome but 
dainty cake, popular all over France. 

Sift ^ pound flour, and mix half of it with }^ 
ounce Vienna yeast and water to make a paste. 
Knead it, and put in a large bowl of warm water 
near the fire. Mix the rest of the flour with % 
ounce sugar, a pinch of salt, a tablespoonful of 
water, % pound butter, and i eggs. Beat all for a 
while, adding the eggs one by one. Then throw 
the dough on a table six times, to make it light, 
take out the ball of paste, now floating on the 
water, and roll both together several times. Put 
to rise for i hours in a cold place. Then bake 
it 40 minutes, egging the top to glaze it, in a hot 
oven. Turn out and dust with sugar. 

166 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

GATEAU ST. HONORE. (Paris.) 

This is a more fancy brioche, made somewhat 
differently. 

Boil 2 gills water, 3 ounces butter, and a tea- 
spoonful of sugar for 1 minutes, add yi pound 
flour, mix until the paste is smooth and does not 
stick to the pan. Take off and add, one by' one, 
6 unbeaten eggs. Butter a pie plate and cover with 
a thin layer of this, then make balls of the rest 
and set on as a border, fastening with white of 
egg. Bake until a light brown, serve cold with a 
filling in centre of preserves, and whipped cream 
on top. 

BATONS DE JAKOB. (Marseilles.) 

Melt y^ cup of butter in i cup of hot water, and 
stir till it boils ; add i cup of flour, and stir till 
smooth. Take off, add 3 unbeaten eggs, one by 
one, and stir well. Pour on a pan in cakes, i inch 
wide and 4 long ; bake 25 minutes in moderate 
oven. When cold, open them with a knife, fill 
with a soft custard flavored with vanilla, and ice 
with coffee. 

SWEET CANNELONS. (Marseilles.) 

These, like the above, are peddled along the 

streets on little trays. 

167 



With a Saucepan ever the Sea 

Roll some good puff paste very thin, cut in 
strips, and roll them around a stick, dust with 
sugar and fill the centre, where the stick held the 
edges overlapping, with whipped cream, after they 
are baked. 

TCHEUREKS. (Greek Easter Cakes.) 

These are also sold on the street at the season, 
during Passion and Holy Weeks. 

Mix 4^ ounces butter with an equal amount of 
sugar, add 5 eggs well beaten, i cup of milk, 1 
ounces yeast, and 10 ounces of flour. Let it rise 
for 1 hours, form into shape of a large fleur-de-lis, 
or 3-pointed flower, — to represent the Trinity, — 
ice with sugar, and bake i hour. 

ROUMANIAN CAKE. 

Mix lyi pounds flour with 2 ounces sugar, 
grated rind of a lemon, yi teaspoonful of cinna- 
mon, and a pinch of powdered cloves. Warm ^ 
pound of honey, add this, and knead all well. 
Cover and set to rise i hour. Roll out i inch 
thick, put in pie plates, cover with chopped nuts 
and brown sugar, and bake in moderate oven. 
Cut into strips, and eat hot or cold. 

RUSSIAN CAKE. 

Mix the yolks of 5 eggs and }i pound of sugar ; 
add slowly 3 ounces flour, 1 ounces chopped 

168 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

almonds, a spoonful of anise seed, and the whites 
of eggs beaten stiff. Bake in long narrow tins 
lined with paper, cut in slices, and dry in the 
oven until crisp, before serving. 

GERMAN XMAS CAKE. 

Mix Y2 pound butter with j^ pound powdered 
sugar, add yolks 6 eggs, and 3^ pound of flour. 
Beat the sugar and butter before adding eggs, well 
beaten separately, and then the flour and a spoon- 
ful of vanilla. Roll out and form into cakes the 
shape of an S or a U, cover with an icing of 
sugar and water boiled, adding currants and candied 
peel, if desired. Bake in a very hot oven. 

HOBELSPANE. (German dessert cakes.) 

Sift 3 ounces of flour, add a pinch of salt, the 
grated rind and juice of a lemon, yolks of 5 eggs, 
and enough water to make a paste. Let this stand 
^ hour. Roll it out thin, cut into strips, twist 
these like curls, and fry in hot fat. Dust them 
with sugar, and serve hot, with a sauce of melted 
grape preserves. May be cut in squares instead. 

GENOA CAKE. (Italy.) 

Mix % pound currants, ^ pound candied orange 
and lemon peel and citron, chopped and mixed, a 
pinch of cinnamon, 6 tablespoonfuls of sugar, ^ 

169 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

pound flour, and a spoonful of lemon juice. Beat 
these well, add 4 beaten eggs and 2 spoonfuls of 
brandy. Pour into a shallow pan and bake 2,0 
minutes. Ice with sugar icing flavored with van- 
illa, and let it brown a little. Eat cold, cut in 
slices. 

TWELFTH NIGHT CAKE. (England.) 

Beat 1 pounds butter with 1 pounds powdered 
sugar, I nutmeg grated, % ounce each of cinna- 
mon, mace, ginger, and allspice. Beat 10 minutes, 
add slowly 20 eggs, whites and yolks beaten sepa- 
rately, and beat for 10 minutes more. Add 2 
pounds flour, 4 pounds currants, ^ pound 
chopped almonds, y^ pound each of chopped 
lemon and orange candied peel, and citron, and 
a glass of brandy. Bake, in a pan y^ full, lined 
with paper, ^yi hours. Will keep 2 months. 

PLUM CAKE. (England.) 

Beat lyi pounds butter with i pound sugar, add 
beaten whites of 8 eggs, i^ pounds flour, 2 pounds 
currants, 8 ounces each of chopped candied lemon 
peel and citron, y^ ounce of mixed cinnamon and 
nutmeg, the zest of 2 oranges rubbed on 4 lumps of 
sugar. Beat after adding each ingredient, then fully 
y^ hour together. Pour into a tin lined with four 

170 




BATH BUNS, ENGLAND 
[See page ///) 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

layers of buttered paper, and lay two on top. Bake 
3 hours ; ice it with vanilla or chocolate icing. 

BATH BUNS. (England.) 

Mix I pound flour, a tablespoonful of yeast, 
and I cup of milk ; let it rise overnight, or for 
several hours, near the fire ; add 6 ounces of melted 
butter and 4 eggs, well beaten. Knead all, and let 
it rise again for about an hour. Make into balls 
as large as a peach, press the tops, and lay in some 
currants and candied peel. Dust with sugar, and 
let rise for 10 minutes; bake in moderate oven 
^ hour. 

HOT CROSS BUNS. (England.) 

These are made on Good Friday. Rub i^ 
pound butter with 2 pounds flour, a tablespoonful 
of yeast, and i}4, pints warm milk. Let it 
rise 1 hours, add yi pound sugar, yi pound cur- 
rants, and y^ a grated nutmeg. Knead into a 
dough and form into buns, set these in a pan, cut 
a cross on top of each, brush with butter, and let 
stand for 15 minutes near the fire. Bake for ^ 
hour in good oven. 

SHEEP-SHEARING BUNS. (England.) 

Made in the time of sheep-shearing in the 
country. Boil i pint of milk, add 4 ounces but- 

171 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

ter, and when cool, add enough flour to make a 
stiff paste, ^ cup yeast, and a pinch of salt. Let 
it rise, add 2 eggs well beaten, 2^ cups sugar, i 
cup currants, and more flour, to make a firm 
dough. Let it rise for 5 hours. Make into buns, 
let them rise, rub with sugar and bake till brown. 

SUFFOLK BUNS. (England.) 

Rub 4 ounces butter with i pound flour, i spoon- 
ful of salt, 2 spoonfuls of baking powder, 3 table- 
spoonfuls of sugar, and 3 tablespoonfuls of currants. 
Mix well, add 2 eggs well beaten, whites and yolks 
separately, and a little milk to make a stiff paste. 
Roll out, cut in rounds i inch thick. Bake in a 
slow oven. 

ENDCLIFFE BUNS. (England.) 

Mix 6 ounces sugar with 4 ounces butter, add i 
egg, lyi pounds flour, ^ ounce baking powder, 
6 ounces currants or raisins, and ^ pint milk. 
Beat the egg, white and yolk separately, before 
adding. Mix all, and bake in a hot oven with 
sugar over. Cut into squares when serving. 

GENEVA BUNS. (Switzerland.) 

Make a batter of i pound of flour, a spoonful 
of yeast, and ^ pint milk. Let it rise for an 
hour, add i beaten egg mixed with ^ cup of milk, 

172 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

2 ounces sugar, and 2 tablespoonfuls of candied 
peel and currants. Cover and let rise for Y^ hour, 
make into rolls, brush with egg, and bake for 20 
minutes in hot oven. 

SPATZEN. (German Sparrow Cakes.) 

Make a thick batter of sufficient flour, i egg, 
milk, and some salt. Beat well and spatter it into 
a pan of boiling fat with a fork, or by dropping 
through a colander. Cook 5 minutes, drain, and 
serve as a garnish to dessert, dusted with powdered 
sugar. May be cooked in water instead, and 
browned in oven with crumbs. 

YORKSHIRE TEA CAKES. 

Rub 6 ounces butter with 2 pounds flour, 2 
eggs well beaten, i pint milk, and i ounce German 
yeast. Knead and cover, and set to rise. Divide 
into ten cakes, rolled thin and cut round, set to 
rise. Bake 5^ hour. Serve hot. 

CRUMPETS. (England.) 

Mix I pint warm milk heated on the fire, i 
ounce butter, i egg, some salt and flour to make a 
batter. Add ^ pint fresh yeast. Cover and let it 
rise 15 minutes, near fire. Bake in large muffin 
rings. Serve hot, cut in half, buttered, for supper 
or five o'clock tea. 

173 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

GATEAU DE RIZ. (French Rice Pudding.) 

In France rice pudding for grown people is 
never liquid and milky, but a firm, handsome 
affair, garnished with fruit, and served with a wine 
or custard sauce, on a dish. 

Cook 4 ounces rice in i quart milk with 2 
tablespoonfuls of sugar, and rind of a lemon. Sim- 
mer till tender and the milk is absorbed. Cool it, 
add yolks 6 eggs beaten, then the whites beaten 
stiff, some nutmeg, 2 tablespoonfuls of raisins and 
chopped citron. Mix well, pour into a buttered 
mould lined with bread-crumbs, bake i hour. 
Turn out, and serve hot or cold with a soft custard 
flavored with sherry. 

RICE PUDDING (as cooked in Nancy). 

Cook }4 pound rice, 2 ounces sugar, and 2 
ounces butter for ^ hour, stirring now and then. 
Add I egg well beaten, then line a buttered mould 
with this and with layers of cooked apricots be- 
tween the layers of rice, — preserves will do, — 
put rice on top and bake ^ hour. Turn out and 
serve hot, with a sauce made of the juice of the 
fruit, sugar, and vanilla. 

SABAGLIONE. (France.) 

This is an old and delicious dessert. Make a 
custard of the yolks of 5 eggs, 3 glasses of Fron- 

174 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

tignac or Angelica, and 3 spoonfuls of sugar. 
Cook slowly, in a pan of water, and pour into 
glasses. Serve ice-cold. 

FRANGIPANE. (Italy.) 

This is another custard, old and good. Beat 6 
eggs very light, add i pint milk and 2 spoonfuls 
of flour. Cook it with ^ pound sugar, stirring 
until thick, add 2 ounces of crushed macaroons, and 
a glass of brandy or' rum, the grated rind of a 
lemon, and 2 ounces butter. Cook in a pan of 
water ; when smooth add a spoonful of vanilla. 
Serve cold, in cups, or use to fill little tarts. 

POMPADOUR PUDDING. (A French recipe.) 

Add 2 ounces fine white bread-crumbs to y^ pint 
of boiling cream, when cool, beat with 5 ounces finely 
chopped suet, i ounce of flour, 2 ounces crushed 
macaroons, 2 ounces stoned raisins, 2 ounces can- 
died peel or preserved cherries chopped, zest of a 
lemon, and a pinch of nutmeg. Beat well, add 
yolks 4 eggs, and a glass of brandy, pour into 
mould and steam it. Serve with a custard sauce, 
hot, flavored with oranges or sherry. 

CIDER JELLY. (England.) 

Melt 2 ounces of gelatine in sufficient water, add 
ly^ pints of cider, and boil and stir until thick, 

^1S 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

adding i pound of sugar. Strain it, pour into a 
mould ; when stiff, turn out and serve with cakes 
and cream. 

TANSY PUDDING. (Old English recipe.) 

This is still eaten in country towns, and is con- 
sidered wholesome in the spring. Pour 3 table- 
spoonfuls of the expressed juice of bruised tansy 
leaves over enough bread-crumbs to absorb it, add 
3 ounces of blanched and pounded almonds, 2 
ounces of sugar, 2 ounces of butter, i teaspoonful 
of grated lemon peel, 3 beaten eggs, ^ pint of 
cream or milk. Boil, like a custard, and serve 
with lemon sauce, hot. 

BAKEWELL PUDDING. (Derbyshire.) 

Line a dish with puff paste, then a layer of 
gooseberry or peach jam, and some chopped can- 
died peel. Fill with a custard made of the yolks 
of 6 eggs and 3 whites, 5 ounces of melted butter, 
6 ounces of sugar, and a glass of lemon brandy, or 
any old-fashioned wine or cordial, with sufficient 
milk to make it smooth. Bake ^ hour, and 
serve cold, in the same dish. 

MARROW PUDDING. (A famous old dish at Cambridge.) 

Chop finely ^ pound of beef marrow and 6 
ounces of bread-crumbs. Add % pound sugar, % 

176 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

pound currants, 2 beaten eggs, a spoonful of 
brandy, 1 spoonfuls of sherry, }i pound of chopped 
and mixed candied peel and citron. Beat and 
pour into a mould, bake it i hour, and turn out, 
with custard sauce around it. 

RICE-MILK. (Sweden.) 

Wash 4 ounces rice, add i pint milk and a pinch 
of salt. Put it in a double boiler, let it boil until 
it is a perfect cream, stirring often. When tender, 
pour into a bowl and serve with sugar, very cold. 

EASTER PUDDING. (England.) 

Mix slowly % pint milk and 4 ounces rice flour, 
add I pint boiling milk and stir on fire for five 
minutes. Add 1 ounces butter, 1 ounces sugar, 
and boil for ten minutes more. When cool, add, 
stirring it, i gill of cold milk, and the grated rind 
of a lemon, 6 eggs, whites and yolks beaten sepa- 
rately, 2 ounces sugar, and i ounce currants. Beat 
well, pour into a dish, bake until brown, and serve 
cold, with cream. 

INGOLDSBY XMAS PUDDING. (England.) 

Mix I pound raisins, i pound currants, i pound 
of sugar, of flour, of suet and bread-crumbs. Add 
}i ounce each of candied peel, allspice, a little nut- 
meg, and rind of a lemon, 8 eggs, well beaten, 2 

12 177 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

glasses of brandy or rum. This makes two large 
puddings. Boil each in a bag, for 7 hours, and 
serve with blazing wine sauce. 

YORKSHIRE PUDDING. 

Make a batter of 6 eggs, K pint of milk, and Y^ 
pound of flour. Beat well and pour into a shallow 
pan. Fill with i pound steak and y?, pound 
stewed kidney, cut in slices, and i cup of stock. 
Lay the rest of the batter over. Bake 3 hours. 
Serve hot. This is really an entree. 

PLUM PUDDING. (A Two-Guinea prize recipe.) 

Seed and chop i pound raisins, add i pound of 
chopped suet, "i^ pound stale bread-crumbs, i^ 
pound brown sugar, grated rind of a lemon, % 
pound flour, i pound currants, and i ounce grated 
nutmeg, 5 eggs, V2 pint brandy, and V^ pound 
chopped candied peel. Beat the eggs and add the 
brandy, mix all the rest, well, cook in 3-pound 
greased moulds, for 6 hours. Cook 6 hours longer 
at the time of using, and serve with wine sauce. 

WINE PUDDING. (Germany.) 

Mix I quart of white wine, Angelica, Catawba, or 
Sauterne, with Yi pound sugar, juice and rind of 1 
lemons, and a heaping teaspoonful of cornstarch, 
dissolved in as much water. Boil the wine, add 

178 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

the lemon, the sugar, cornstarch, and well beaten 
yolks of 7 eggs. Stir but do not let it boil after 
adding the eggs, pour into a bowl, set on ice, and 
serve with cream and little cakes. 

CHESTNUT PUDDING. (France.) 

Boil and peel i quart of chestnuts, then cook 
them for i hour with i cup of milk. Rub through 
a sieve, add i cup of sugar, a little mace, some salt, 
and Yt, teaspoonful of vanilla. Then add the yolks 
of 5 eggs beaten, and the stiffly beaten whites. 
Mix, pour into a dish, and bake 15 minutes. 
Serve hot or cold, with jam or custard sauce or 
whipped cream. 

ALMOND PUDDING. (Buda-Pesth.) 

This is a Jewish recipe. Much of the Jewish 
cookery is very dainty and well flavored. 

Blanch 4 ounces sweet almonds and 3 of bitter 
almonds, dry them and pound very fine. Add 4 
ounces of powdered sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of rose- 
water, yolks of 4 eggs, and the beaten whites of 3. 
Whip for 10 minutes, pour into a buttered mould, 
and bake in a quick oven. Turn out and serve 
hot or cold, with cream or sauce. 

VERMICELLI CHESTNUTS. (Italy.) 

Peel, blanch, and drain 20 large chestnuts, cover 
them with a syrup of sugar and water, and cook 

179 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

until tender. Take out, flavor the syrup with 
vanilla or any cordial, add the chestnuts, press all 
through a sieve or colander into a pretty dish. 
Use alone, or as garnish. Can be served with a 
lemon sauce, whipped cream, or melted jam. 

ALMOND DELIGHT. (Hungary.) 

Blanch, dry, crush, and brown Y^ pound of 
Jordan almonds in a little sugar. Add the whites 
of 6 eggs beaten stiff, and 4 tablespoonfuls of pow- 
dered sugar, mix lightly and pour into a cake tin, 
bake in a quick oven till yellow. When cold, 
split it with a knife, and fill with whipped cream, 
sweetened and flavored with wine. 

VICTORIA PUDDING. (England.) 

Boil I pint of fresh milk, add a spoonful of 
vanilla extract, 6 ounces of fine bread-crumbs, 3 
tablespoonfuls of sugar, i tablespoonful of brandy, 
I ounce of raisins, and 3 beaten eggs. Butter a 
mould and ornament it with cherries and citron cut 
like leaves to imitate a wreath, pour in the pud- 
ding, steam it, and when done, turn out, serve cold. 

SOMERSETSHIRE FRUMENTY. 

Frumenty is a very old and wholesome dessert, 
especially for children and elderly people. 

Cook I quart of cracked wheat in i quart of 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

water, with a pinch of sak, slowly, until soft. Add 
I quart of milk, and stir it until as thick as cream. 
Take off the fire, strain it, add sugar and nutmeg 
to taste, and i tablespoonfuls of washed currants. 
Stir again over the fire until the fruit is soft, add 
the beaten yolks of i eggs and take off. Serve 
cold in a bowl for supper or lunch. 

^ LINCOLNSHIRE FRUMENTY. 

Stir I quart of wheat mush over the fire with 2 
quarts of milk, until thick and smooth, add % 
pound of mixed raisins and currants, then, when 
tender, still stirring, the yolks of 6 eggs beaten, 
sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Serve cold, in bowls 
or cups. 

DEVONSHIRE WHITE-POT. 

Beat 4 eggs, add i pint of cream, and sugar and 
nutmeg to taste, also a handful of raisins which 
have been soaked in hot water to soften. Pour 
into a dish which has in the bottom a layer of 
sliced stale bread, buttered. Bake in a slow oven, 
and serve cold. 

DEVONSHIRE JUNKET. 

Mix ^ a teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon 
with 2 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. Add a 
glass of brandy, and stir well ; then add one quart 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

of fresh milk and rennet to curdle. Stir until it 
begins to set, and serve with clotted cream. 

LONDON SYLLABUB. 

Dissolve 3 ounces of sugar in ^ pint of sherry, 
add some nutmeg and 2 quarts of milk direct from 
the cow ; serve with white of egg, beaten, on top 
of each glass. 

ENGLISH TRIFLE (as made at Windsor). 

Cut a pound of loaf cake into very thin slices, 
and arrange in a dish, with a custard, between each 
layer, of ^2 pound of crushed macaroons, i glass 
of sherry, yolks of 4 eggs, 2 gills of milk, a tea- 
spoonful of cornstarch, 2 ounces of sugar, and the 
zest and juice of a lemon. Cook this until thick, 
strain for use. After putting it in the layers of 
cake and over the top, spread a layer of apricot 
jam or plum marmalade over all, and finally 
spoonfuls of whipped cream, flavored with vanilla. 
Serve very cold. It can be garnished with citron 
and fruits. 

ROLY-POLY. (England.) 

Make a good stiff batter, using eggs and milk, 
etc., roll it out thin, spread a layer of jam or mar- 
malade evenly, fold it up, dust with flour, and tie 
in a cloth. Boil it i^ hours, drain, untie, and 
serve, in slices, with wine or cream sauce. 

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CLARET JELLY. (England.) 

Melt I ounce gelatine in yi pint of boiling water, 
add I quart of claret, ^ pound sugar, rind and 
juice of a lemon, and stir until it boils, strain and 
add a pinch of powdered cinnamon. Pour into a 
mould, set on ice, and turn out. Serve with 
cream. 

CLARET AND STRAWBERRIES. (France.) 

Dissolve ^ pound sugar in a pint of claret, or 
more, if needed, to sweeten, pick sufficient straw- 
berries, cover with this and set on ice for an hour 
before use. Eat with crackers and cream cheese. 

ROD GRUID. (Norway and Sweden.) 

Mash and strain 3 boxes of currants, add water 
to make 1 quarts of juice, i pound sugar, i stick 
of cinnamon, rind of i lemon. Boil it, skim it, 
add yi pound sago ; when melted and clear, pour 
into moulds. Set on ice, eat with cream. 

LECHE CREAM. (A convent recipe.) 

Beat yolks of 3 eggs, and add the beaten white 
of I, add carefully i^ pints of milk, blended with 4 
tablespoonfuls of cornstarch, as much sugar, and a 
spoonful of grated lemon peel. Boil all, but stir 
to prevent burning, until smooth. Pour into a 

183 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

shallow dish, lined with sliced sponge cake or lady- 
fingers, through a sieve. Dust, when cold, a pat- 
tern of cinnamon or nutmeg on top, and serve 
with cream. 

BAVARIAN VANILLA CREAM. 

This is peculiar to the Tyrol and Black Forest. 
Warm but do not boil ^ pint of milk, mix the 
yolks of 3 eggs and 3 ounces of sugar, add to the 
milk, stir well, then having dissolved ^ ounce 
gelatine in the warm milk, stir until thick, but do 
not boil it. Add a spoonful of vanilla, strain it, 
and add ^ pint of whipped cream. Pour into a 
mould, and serve with strawberry sauce, made by 
cooking a cup of fresh berries, or canned ones, with 
sugar to sweeten, the juice of 3^ a lemon, and 
sufficient hot water to make a thick syrup when 
strained. Cool it, and serve both very cold. 

STRAWBERRY BAVARIAN CREAM. 

This can be made also of peaches or pineapple, 
or any fruit in due proportions. 

Pick and press through a sieve sufficient berries 
to make a pint of pulp, add 10 ounces of sugar, ^ 
a teaspoonful of vanilla, and lyi ounces of gelatine, 
melted in i cup of water. Stir until almost firm, 
add sufficient whipped cream to fill a 3-pint mould. 
Set on ice. 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

HONEYCOMB CREAM. (Switzerland.) 

Strain and sweeten the juice of i lemons and an 
orange, add i^ pints of hot cream or rich milk, 
set these in a pan of hot water, stirring until thick, 
then pour from a height into a glass dish, so as to 
froth it well. Set on ice, and when firm, serve. 

HOLSTEIN CREAM. (Germany.) 

Infuse the rind of a lemon for ^ hour with a 
pint of cream, in a warm place. Then boil it, add 
a teaspoonful of ground rice and two tablespoon- 
fuls of sugar. Boil, stir a little longer, pour into a 
dish with slices of sponge cake in it, and set on 
ice. Serve cold. 

PINEAPPLE CREAM. (France.) 

Chop and core i large ripe pineapple, add 9 
ounces of sugar and 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy, 
and set aside 2 hours. Cook the peel and core in 
Y2 pint water for i hour, strain, cool it, and add 
to the rest. Boil it ^ hour, skim it, add ^ ounce 
melted gelatine, cook 10 minutes longer, add \yi 
pints cream. Whisk until frothy, set in a mould 
on ice. Turn out on a glass dish when firm. 

ALPINE BASKETS. (Switzerland.) 

Make a mixture of whites of eggs and sugar 
as used for kisses and meringues, drop in large 

185 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

spoonfuls on buttered paper, set on a board and 
bake until yellow. If the spoonfuls have been 
given the right shape, — a pastry bag is the best 
thing to use, — the baskets, which must be scooped 
out of any soft part in the centre, will be a good 
shape. Stand them on end, let them dry, and fill 
with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored with 
a little cordial or vanilla. Drop small red straw- 
berries over the tops. 

MERINGUES. (Paris.) 

Beat the whites of 5 eggs very stiff, add slowly 
I pound of the finest pulverized sugar, beat long 
and well, then drop in spoonfuls on sheets of oiled 
paper, set on tin or boards. Bake until yellow, 
cut them off, and join two together. This makes 
25 small meringues. Use for afternoon tea. 

MARASCHINO JELLY. (France.) 

Squeeze and strain the juice of an orange, a 
lemon, and a peach, add 12 tablespoonfuls of 
orange-flower water, ^ ounce of sugar, and the 
zest of a lemon. Melt the sugar in i glass of 
water before adding. Put these with \]4, pints 
of jelly made from calf's feet or gelatine, yi pint 
of Maraschino cordial, and the shells and beaten 
whites of 6 eggs. Line a mould with strawberries 
dipped in claret, and pour this over, through a 

186 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

sieve. Set on ice, and serve with custard or 
whipped cream. 

GOOSEBERRY FOOL. (England.) 

Trim i pound of green gooseberries, cook with 
I cup of water and ^ pound of sugar. When 
soft, press through a sieve, add i pint of rich 
milk or cream, boihng hot, then put on ice in a 
bowl, and serve cold. 

JELLY OF GREEN GAGES. (England.) 

Skin and stone i^ pounds of ripe gages, add 
ID ounces of sugar, and a few of the kernels, 
blanched. Boil to a pulp, add y^ ounce of dis- 
solved gelatine, and pour into an oiled mould. 
Serve cold, with cream. 

APRICOT CUSTARD. (Vienna.) 

Strain and make a pulp of ^ pint of stewed apri- 
cots. Mash these through a sieve, add 6 ounces 
of sugar and the juice of 5^ an orange, cook and 
stir until thick, then add the whites of 4 eggs 
well beaten, pour into a dish, dust with sugar, 
bake 20 minutes in hot oven, and serve at once, 
with wine sauce or cream. 

APRICOT CREAM. (France.) 

Stone and slice i pint of cooked apricots, add 
juice of a lemon, 4 ounces sugar, and a table- 

187 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

spoonful of Maraschino or Kirsch cordial. Boil, 
stirring it, add ^ ounce melted gelatine, in a cup 
of hot water, press through a sieve, set on ice in 
a dish, stirring until almost firm. 

RICE AND APRICOT CROQUETTES. (France.) 

Drain 4 large apricots, preserved or canned or 
freshly cooked with sugar, halve them and remove 
the stones. Fill the centres with rice, boiled with 
milk and sugar until thick and flavored with 
vanilla. Put two halves together, dip each whole 
in more rice, then in chopped almonds and yolk 
of egg, and fry in boiling fat. Arrange on a plate, 
with a good sauce or melted jam or custard. Dust 
the balls with powdered sugar. 

COFFEE CUSTARDS. (Very old French recipe.) 

Grind 2 ounces of freshly roasted Mocha coffee, 
add I cup of boiling milk, and set in a warm place 
40 minutes. Strain it, mix it in the ordinary way, 
with sufficient milk and eggs to make i quart of 
custard, and pour into cups. Bake these in a 
pan of water, very carefully, and serve cold. 

CREAM OF TEA. (Paris.) 

Make a strong infusion of fine Oolong tea, take 
2 gills of it and strain it. Add 5 ounces sugar, 
beaten with the yolks of 4 eggs, stir it on the fire 




COMPOTE OF APPLES, CHERBOURG 

[See page l8g) 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

until it thickens, then strain it, add ^ ounce 
gelatine melted in ^ gill of hot water, having first 
added ly^ gills of cream to the egg while on the 
fire. Beat in some stiffly whipped cream, enough 
to make i pint in all, and pour into a mould, set 
on ice. 

FRENCH APPLE CREAM. 

Peel, core, and slice 6 large apples, add i cup 
of water, a pinch of cinnamon, and 3 tablespoonfuls 
of sugar. Boil and stir and strain it into a dish, 
cover with sugar, and glaze with a salamander. 
Serve cold, with custard or milk, and small fancy- 
cakes or buns. 

COMPOTE OF APPLES. (Cherbourg.) 

Pare and core and cut into halves 6 large, fine 
apples. To each pound add i pound sugar, rind 
of 1 lemons, and a little ginger. Cook, covered, 
for I hour. Add % cup of cider, and boil for ^ 
hour, then stir in a spoonful of vanilla, and let 
them cool, arranged in a dish. Serve with whipped 
cream, and garnish of cherries, citron, or Angelica. 

APPLES EN CASSEROLE. (Provincial France.) 

Peel and core 4 large apples, put them in an 
earthen dish with i wineglassful of brandy, juice 
of a lemon, a little cinnamon, and i cup of sugar. 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

Cover closely, and bake in the oven for ^ hour. 
Cover with sugar and chopped nuts, glaze with a 
salamander, serve with a pitcher of rich milk. 

BAKED APPLES AND RICE CROQUETTES. 

(An English dessert.) 

Pare and core 4 fine apples, add i cup of water, 
2 ounces sugary juice of a lemon, and some nut- 
meg to the skin and cores. Cook ^ hour, strain, 
add the apples, bake ^^ hour, and put on a dish 
with alternate arrangement of rice croquettes and 
bits of jam. 

APPLE BALLS. (Germany.) 

Peel and chop 5 large apples, add i ounce but- 
ter, 3 ounces of sugar, and rind and juice of a 
lemon. Cook and stir until smooth, add yolks 
of 3 eggs, and 1 teaspoonfuls of cornstarch. Cook 
20 minutes, press through a sieve, and let it cool. 
Make into balls, dip in ^gg and crumbs, fry brown 
in a kettle of boiling lard. Put a bit of angelica or 
citron in the end of each to imitate a stalk, dust 
with sugar, arrange on a dish, and serve cold with 
a white sauce. 

PEARS (as cooked in Roumania). 

Peel, slice, and core 8 large pears. Add i roll, 
sliced thin, toasted and crushed to powder, 2 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

crushed cloves, and 3 pints of water. Cook for 
I hour, covered, press through a sieve, add 1 
ounces of sugar, the juice of a lemon, and i glass 
of white wine. Cook 20 minutes more, set on 
ice, serve with cream and sponge cakes. 

COMPOTE OF ORANGES. (France.) 

Peel, seed, and divide in quarters 4 large, sweet 
oranges, cook them with ^ pint sugar syrup, 
added to i glass of cordial. Maraschino, or Kirsch, 
for y^ hour. Cool, set aside, and serve cold with 
biscuits. 

COMPOTE OF RICE AND APPLES. (Northern France.) 

Boil y^ pint rice with i quart of water 20 
minutes, drain it, add 2 ounces sugar, 2 ounces 
butter, and rind of a lemon. Stir, cool, and strain 
it, pressing out all the water. Arrange in layers 
on a dish with 5 large apples, pared, sliced, and 
cooked in syrup, between. Put a layer of rice on 
top, dust with sugar, and bake i hour. Arrange 
with a custard poured over, flavored with wine, 
called " sabayon." It can be served cold or hot. 

OMELETTE CELESTINE. (French.) 

(Named after Pope Celestine, founder of a strict 
order of monks.) Boil ^ pint of milk and 2 
tablespoonfuls of rice flour, 4 ounces of powdered 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

sugar, and a spoonful of vanilla. Stir to prevent 
burning or clotting for lo minutes, add the yolks 
of 3 eggs and ^ ounce of butter. Stir, take off 
the fire, and keep hot. Make an omelette of 6 
eggs and before folding, fill with this cream. Dust 
with sugar, brown with a salamander, and serve it 
with plum or peach marmalade. 

SMALL OMELETTE CELESTINE. 

Mix by beating 6 eggs with 2 ounces of pounded 
macaroons, i tablespoonful of sugar, and a pinch of 
salt. Make of this 4 small omelettes, and fill one 
with orange marmalade, one with green gages, one 
with currant jelly, and one with apricot jam. Dust 
with sugar, glaze them brown, and serve hot. 

FANCY FRENCH OMELETTE. 

Beat yolks of 4 eggs with the rind of a lemon, 
rubbed on 1 ounces of loaf sugar, which must 
be crushed and added, the whites beaten very 
stiff, % pound flour, and ^ cup of whipped 
cream. Mix all well, pour into a buttered pan, 
and bake in a hot oven 5 minutes. Fold it on 
a plate with a filling of cider apple-sauce, boiled 
thick, glaze it with sugar and serve. 

OMELETTE WITH CORDIAL. (Paris.) 

Beat 5 eggs and i ounce sugar, add a table- 
spoonful of Kirsch, melt 1 ounces butter in a 

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pan, pour in the eggs, cook until set. Roll it on 
a dish, fill with i tablespoonfuls of apricot jam, 
mixed with a glass of Kirsch. Dust with sugar, 
glaze brown, and serve at once. 

RUM OMELETTE. (Paris.) 

Beat 2 eggs with i ounces of sugar and a glass 
of rum. Pour this into a buttered pan with i 
ounces melted butter, cook until set, roll it on 
a dish, pour a glass of rum over it, light it, send 
to the table on fire. 

BAKED SWEET OMELETTE SOUFFLE. (Germany.) 

Scald and pound i ounces of pistachio nuts, add 
the yolks of 3 eggs, i ounce of powdered sugar, 
the grated rind of i lemon. Beat all well, add the 
4 beaten whites, and put in a dish. Sprinkle thickly 
with sugar and bake till high and brown. Serve 
at once. 

GAUFRES. 

Gaufres are made everywhere on holidays, sold 
hot on the streets in France. They are a very 
delicate sort of wafer, rich but crisp. 

Mix I pound of pastry flour with 6 eggs, add i 
pound fresh butter, melted till soft, i spoonful 
of yeast, and i pint of cream or rich milk. Beat 
all well and long. Set aside in a cold place 1 
hours, pour into gaufre irons and serve hot, with 
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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

sugar. Gaufre irons can be bought at the French 
hardware stores. 

ENGLISH WAFERS FOR TEA OR DESSERT. 

Mix Yi pound of sifted flour, i ounce of butter, 
and I pinch of salt with sufficient milk to make a 
firm batter. Roll it very thin, as thin as paper, — 
cut into rounds, and bake in hot oven till crisp 
but not burned. They are better eaten fresh, but 
will keep in a tin box some days. 

DANISH WAFFLES. 

Beat I pound butter until creamy with ^ pound 
sugar, add yolks of 6 eggs, i pound of flour, i 
quart of warm milk, and the whites, beaten stiff;. 
Bake in a waffle iron and dust each with sugar, 
when serving, with jam or preserves. This can be 
made in half the recipe, as this amount makes 24. 

NORMANDY CUTLETS. (A convent recipe.) 

Dip 4 thick slices of stale bread in sufficient 
custard to moisten, dip in crumbs, and fry in butter. 
Serve with baked apples and a sauce of sugar, water, 
cider, and cinnamon, cooked until it is thick and 
poured over. Put a little currant or plum jam on 
each apple. 

GERMAN KONGLAUFFE. 

Beat 10 ounces of butter with % pound sugar, 
which has mixed with the zest of a lemon and a 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

little nutmeg. Add 4 ounces of flour and 2 eggs, 
well beaten. Work these well together, add ^ 
pound more flour, 2 whole eggs, and the yolks of 
4 one by one. Add finally % ounce of yeast, 
dissolved in yi cup of milk. Butter a mould, line 
it with chopped nuts, and pour in and bake i ^ 
hours. Turn out, serve in slices, with cream sauce 
or melted jam. 

IMPERIALS. (English Tea Cakes.) 

Beat 6 ounces of butter to a cream, add i pound 
of flour and 8 ounces of sugar, then 2 ounces of 
candied peel, chopped fine, the zest of a lemon, 
yi pound currants, and 4 beaten eggs. Drop in 
balls on a tin and bake until brown. 



IMPERIAL SCHMARN. (German pancakes.) 

Whisk the yolks of 5 eggs with i pint of cream, 
or rich milk, and beat the whites very stiff. Add 
to the yolks and cream 4 ounces of flour and i 
tablespoonful of sugar, i ounce of raisins, and i 
ounce of chopped almonds. Then add the beaten 
whites, stir and fry on a griddle with 2 ounces of 
butter, either whole or in 3 parts. Let It brown ; 
when light, sift it with sugar and serve with pre- 
serves or hot vanilla or wine sauce. 

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SWISS ROLL OR BAKED PANCAKE. 

Mix y^ pound powdered sugar with the yolks 
of 4 eggs, beaten light, add % pound of flour and 
the whites, beaten stiff. Line a dish with oiled 
paper, sift sugar thickly inside, pour in the batter, 
sift more sugar on top, and bake about 7 minutes 
in a hot oven. Spread it with jam, roll it up and 
serve, hot or cold, cut into slices. 

CREAM PANCAKES. (Paris.) 

Whisk the yolks of 3 eggs and the whites of 2, 
separately, add a small cup of cream, a tablespoon- 
ful of sugar, and enough flour to make a batter, 
also butter the size of an egg. Fry this in butter, 
roll it up with a filling of apricot or plum jam. 
Can be made in one or more cakes. 

PANCAKES WITH MARRONS. 

Use the same recipe as for cream pancakes, but 
fill with a puree of cooked chestnuts, sweetened 
and flavored with maraschino cordial. Dust each, 
on the dish, with sugar and glaze until brown. 
Serve with orange marmalade or lemon syrup. 

MACAROON PANCAKES. (A French recipe.) 

Mix I tablespoonful of rice flour and 1 table- 
spoonfuls of milk, taken from a pint of milk 
and set aside. Beat the yolks of 4 eggs, add the 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

rest of the milk, i spoonful of melted butter, and 
1 ounces of sugar. Stir on the fire until thick 
but not boiling, cool it, add i tablespoonfuls of 
chopped candied peel, a httle cinnamon, % pound 
of stale, crushed macaroons, and a spoonful of 
orangeflower water. Finally, add the white of a 
well-beaten egg and 2 whole eggs. Pour into a 
buttered dish, bake until brown, and roll up, with 
a filling of apricot, green gage, or gooseberry jam. 
Glaze the top with sugar before serving. 

CURRANT PANCAKES. (England.) 

Infuse the thin rind of a lemon in i pint of 
warm milk, on the fire, strain it, add 1 ounces 
butter, 1 ounces of sugar, stir, and add 8 ounces 
of flour mixed with 6 beaten eggs and 2 table- 
spoonfuls of water, and a tablespoonful of rum or 
brandy. Stir in lightly i cup of cleaned and dried 
currants, fry on a griddle, and dust with sugar. 

FADGES. (Irish Pancakes.) 

Boil yi pint of milk and 3 ounces of butter, 
stirring to prevent burning. Take off, add i 
pound of whole wheat flour and a pinch of salt, 
and beat well. Roll out ^ inch thick, cut into 
squares and cook on a griddle, turning often, for 
i^ hours. Serve with butter or preserves. 

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FRITTERS OF FOUR NATIONS. 

These were supposed to have been originated 
by a French cook to commemorate a peace treaty 
several centuries ago. 

Peel and slice two large fine apples, remove the 
core, and cover them with i ounce of sugar and a 
tablespoonful of brandy for ^^ hour. Drain them, 
dip each piece in jam, peach, or apricot, then in 
frying batter, and fry them in boiling fat. Glaze 
with sugar and serve at once with a good sauce. 

VIENNA FRITTERS. 

Boil 1 ounces butter, i teaspoonfuls of sugar, 
grated rind of a lemon, and a cup of water, lo 
minutes. Add 5 ounces of flour and stir until it 
is smooth, then take it off the fire, and add, one 
by one, beating between each, 5 eggs, beat them 
until light and drop in spoonfuls in boiling fat. 
Dust with powdered sugar and serve with wine 
sauce. 

FRENCH FRITTERS. 

Make a batter as for the recipe above, roll it out 
very thin, and cut into rounds. Put two of these 
together with a filling of orange or pineapple 
marmalade, strawberry jam or preserve, free from 
juice. Pinch the edges and fry brown. Dust 
with sugar and serve hot. 

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SPANISH FRITTERS. 

Make a batter of 5 ounces of rice flour, a pinch 
of salt, rind of a lemon, i pint of milk, % pound 
sugar, and i ounce of crushed macaroons. Add 
while on the fire 3 eggs, and take it off to cool. 
Make into balls, dip in bread-crumbs, and fry 
brown. Dust with sugar and serve with a sauce. 

MI-CAREME FRITTERS. (Rome.) 

These are eaten in Lent all over Rome ; they 
are peddled along the street. 

Boil 3 cups of milk, add sugar to taste, i ounce 
of butter, and the yolks of 4 eggs, and enough 
corn meal — called semolina in Italy — to make a 
firm paste, a tablespoonful of brandy, or cordial to 
flavor. Make into rings, dip in flour, fry in lard, 
and dust with sugar. Always eaten with goose- 
berry jam, in Italy for supper. 

PINEAPPLE FRITTERS. (France.) 

Take some fritters as in recipe for Vienna 
fritters, fry in lard, and split each fritter before 
serving, fill with some pineapple jam, or stewed 
fruit, boiled down and flavored with vanilla. Close 
the fritters, arrange on a dish, dust with sugar, 
glaze them, and serve with whipped cream. 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

GERMAN NOODLES. 

Mix 3 fresh eggs with as much jflour as will 
make a stiff paste. Knead this well, using plenty 
of flour, until all moisture is absorbed. Roll as 
thin as paper, dry it near the fire, and cut into 
strips half an inch wide ; poach these in a great 
deal of salted water, boiling for 5 minutes, drain 
them, serve in soup or alone, with a good sauce 
or entree. 

BANBURY TARTS. (England.) 

Banbury, of nursery fame, is celebrated for a 
certain kind of tart or turnover which its bakers 
have sold for many years. 

Beat Yi pound butter to a cream, with i pound 
of candied orange and lemon peel, cut fine, i pound 
currants, ^ ounce of cinnamon, and i ounce of 
allspice. Make some puff paste, quite rich, set 
it on ice overnight, and roll it, very thin, cut 
into squares. Fill these with the mincemeat, fold 
into triangles, pinch the edges, dust with sugar 
and yolk of egg, bake 15 minutes in a hot oven, 
and serve cold. 

ROUEN TARTS. (Northern France.) 

Make a paste as for Vienna fritters, line small 
muffin rings with it, bake a light brown, fill them 
with a cream made of 2 eggs, beaten with 2 table- 

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spoonfuls of powdered sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of 
very rich cream, and a tablespoonful of lemon 
juice. Cook this carefully before pouring in, or 
else fill and bake again, for 10 minutes. Dust 
the tops with sugar. 

ITALIAN TARTS. (Turin.) 

Have ready six sponge cakes, tall and round, 
like tarts, scoop out the centres, and roll the out- 
sides in jam, then in chopped nuts. Fill with 
a half a peach, preserved or stewed, free from juice, 
on top of a layer of sweetened whipped cream. 
Serve cold, for afternoon tea or dessert. 

BAVARIAN TART OR PIE. 

Make three thin layer cakes from a good recipe, 
and put them together with a stiff filling of 
whipped cream, sweetened and flavored with straw- 
berry juice. Cover the top and sides with icing 
of the same flavor, both pink and daintily made. 
Serve, sliced, for dessert. Decorate the top with 
candied cherries and leaves of citron, cut thin, in 
a wreath. This is a good and very pretty cake, 
though called a tart. 

VIENNA TARTS. 

Mix 6 ounces of granulated sugar, 6 ounces of 
flour^ 6 eggs, and 6 ounces of fresh butter. The 

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butter must be melted, and added last. Beat 
well, for at least lo minutes, before adding the 
butter, then lo minutes more, and pour into a 
tin, thinly ; bake it in a moderate oven until brown. 
Cut with a sharp knife into strips, 2x4 inches, 
spread with jam, and put together, covering the 
tops with whipped cream and chopped nuts. 

GOOSEBERRY TARTS. (England.) 

Make as many shells of puff paste as required ; 
bake them until light ; when cold, fill them half- 
way with gooseberries cooked to a puree, and 
cover with whipped cream, sweetened. Serve at 
afternoon tea. 

VIENNA TART. 

Roll out some good puff paste, line a plate with 
it, and bake it, then fill it with a rich custard, 
flavored with lemon or vanilla ; when firm, put 
a circle of cooked peaches, halved, around the 
edge, then one of green gages inside of that, and 
fill the centre with cherries. Serve cold, in the 
same dish, with whipped cream. 

KING'S TART. (Germany.) 

Mix one pinch each of cloves, cinnamon, and 
mace with 4 ounces of chopped almonds, 2 ounces 
of chopped peanuts, 2 ounces of citron, and 2 

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ounces of stoned raisins, the rind and juice of a 
lemon, and 2^ ounces of bread-crumbs, wet with 
milk. Beat in 6 eggs the whites and yolks whisked 
separately, and 4 ounces of sugar. Pour into a 
shallow dish, and bake in a moderate oven. Turn 
out when cold, and serve with a sugar syrup fla- 
vored with wine or cordial. 

ANGELICA AND APPLE TART. (France.) 

Pare and core some fine apples, cook them with 
water to cover, sugar, lemon juice to taste, and a 
little nutmeg. When tender, pour off the syrup, 
add as much angelica, candied or fresh, cut up as 
apples, cook until thick, line a dish with puff paste, 
bake it ten minutes, fill with the apples and the 
angelica and syrup, cover with a meringue, as for 
lemon pie, bake until brown. Serve cold. 

WESTPHALIAN APPLE TART. 

Pare and chop 15 apples, fry them in butter, 
add 4 spoonfuls of apricot jam, and beat until 
smooth. Then add i^ pound of butter beaten 
to a cream, yolks of 4 eggs, and i^ pound of bread- 
crumbs, a spoonful of vanilla, and 6 ounces of 
powdered sugar. Spread this over the top of the 
apples, laid in a shell of paste, and bake 1 5 minutes 
in a hot oven. 

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GALETTE (eaten in France on Epiphany Day). 

Rub together 6 ounces of butter and ^ pound 
of flour, beating well. Add a pinch of salt and 
1 well-beaten eggs, knead it carefully and roll it 
out into a large cake, j^ inch thick. Bake it in 
a hot oven on a buttered tin. Beat together i 
ounce melted butter, yolk of i egg, and yi pint 
of cream, sugar to taste, and a spoonful of cordial, 
lemon juice, or vanilla. Fill the cake with this, 
roll up and glaze with sugar, sifted over the top. 
Serve hot, cut in slices. 

WAFERS FOR DESSERT. (Provincial France.) 

Work up ^ a pound of Brie, Gruyere, or very 
fresh American cheese with as much butter, until 
smooth. Add 4 eggs, a little water, and flour to 
make a stiflF paste. Roll out and fold it 3 times, 
then cut it into thin sticks, yi inch wide, and bake 
in a hot oven on a buttered tin. Bake brown and 
serve very hot, with salad or fruit. 

FANCHONETTE. (French cream tart.) 

Line a dish with fine puff paste, bake, then fill 
it with a custard made of i^ pound each of flour 
and sugar, the yolks of 6 eggs, and ^ cup of 
cream or milk, cooked carefully until it is smooth, 
in a double boiler. Add flavoring of wine or 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

vanilla, pour a meringue over the top, sweetened 
to taste, decorated with cherries and citron. 

GIMBLETTES. (French Doughnuts.) 

Beat 3 eggs very light, add 4 ounces of pow- 
dered sugar, 2 spoonfuls of chopped lemon peel, 
and 6 tablespoonfuls of flour. Roll out, after 
mixing well, into a thin paste, cut into rings, and 
poach them in boiling water. When they rise to 
the top, take off, brush with yolk of egg, and bake 
in a moderate oven 20 minutes. 

WONDERS. (Isle of Jersey.) 

Beat }i pound of melted butter and i^ pound 
of sugar to a cream. Add 3 beaten eggs, i pound 
of flour, and a little nutmeg. Knead well and set 
to rise. Cut into large rings, twist these, and fry 
in boiling fat. Dust with sugar. Real wonder 
cakes are cut in rounds, then two slits are cut 
across the centre, and these pieces are twisted 
without breaking. 

LOVE CAKES. (Germany. Eaten at Moravian love feasts.) 

Boil 2 cupfuls of honey and i ounce of sugar. 
Add 4 ounces of chopped almonds and simmer 5 
minutes longer, then add 8 ounces of chopped 
candied peel, ^ a teaspoonful of bicarbonate of 
soda, ^ a nutmeg, grated, a pinch of cloves, a tea- 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

spoonful of cinnamon, rind of a lemon, grated, and 
a tablespoonful of rum or sherry. Cut into pieces, 
4x2 inches large, after adding enough flour to 
stiffen and rolling it very thin. Bake these in a 
slow oven, ice with sugar, and eat cold. In Ger- 
many they are served with wine to drink, and a 
bowl of stewed dried apples. 

APPLE FLAWN. (England.) 

Line a deep round tin with puff paste, bake it, 
and fill it with apple-cider jelly, mixed with 1 
tablespoonfuls of currants and boiled down pretty 
thick. Over the top spread a layer of orange 
marmalade and a lattice of puff" paste. Bake it to 
brown the paste and serve cold. 

APPLE TIMBALE. (Milan.) 

Line a deep dish with pufF paste, bake it, and 
fill it with sufficient apples, cooked in a syrup with 
vanilla and sugar to taste, and reduced rather thick. 
When stiff, turn out on a dish and serve with a 
border of candied cherries and a custard sauce, 
cold. 

RHEIMS BISCUITS. (A favorite French dessert cake.) 

Beat 15 ounces of powdered sugar with the yolks 
of 10 and the whites of 12 eggs, add a pinch of 
salt and beat it over the fire while it is cooking 

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slowly. When it has risen twice its size, take off 
and beat until cold. Add 6 ounces of flour and 
stirring well, pour it into buttered tins, shaped 
like lady-fingers. Dust with sugar and bake in a 
slow oven until a rich yellow. 

RUSSIAN BISCUITS. 

Mix Yz pound of sifted flour with i ounce of 
sugar, a pinch of salt, a spoonful of caraway seed, 
and yi pint of milk or cream. Beat all well, roll 
out thin, cut into 32 oblong strips, and bake 6 
minutes in a hot oven. Eat cold, with salad or 
cheese or stewed fruit. 

PROFITEROLLES. (Paris.) 

Heat but do not boil 1 ounces butter, i ounce 
of sugar, and j^ pint of milk. Add i spoonful of 
orangeflower water and enough flour to make a 
paste. Beat in 3 eggs and bake in balls as large 
as a peach, in a slow oven. When high and crisp, 
let them cool, split them in half, and fill with a 
custard, whipped cream, or jam, 

APPLE TURNOVERS. 

These are made by the farmers' wives at har- 
vesting. Boil as many green apples as needed 
with sugar to taste, cinnamon, some butter, and 
the juice of a lemon. Make some good paste, 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

roll it thin, cut in squares, fill with this, boiled 
thick, and fold in triangles. Dust them with 
sugar, and bake until brown. Eat them with 
cream, hot or cold. 

FRENCH APPLE PIE. 

Line a plate with pufF paste, brush it with egg, 
prick it with a fork, and bake it until light and 
brown. Fill it with a mixture of 8 baked apples, 
free from cores and skin, rubbed to a puree with 
4 ounces of sugar, i ounce of butter, the grated 
rind of a lemon, and yolks of i eggs. Cook it 
for lo minutes, pour it in, and cover with strips 
of paste. Bake until brown. 

FLORENTINE APPLE PIE. 

Pare and core i pound of fine apples. Stew, 
but do not let them break in a syrup of i pint of 
water, and ]4 pound sugar. Fill a dish with a 
layer of puff paste, arrange the apples inside, with 
orange marmalade in the centres of each, and a 
little chopped citron here and there, the syrup 
boiled down with a spoonful of vanilla, and poured 
over. Lay strips of paste across, bake, and when 
cold serve with whipped cream. 

SAXONY APPLE PIE. 

Line a deep dish with puff paste, bake it lo 
minutes, fill with 6 large harvest apples, boiled in 

2o8 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

syrup with cinnamon dusted over, sugar and bits 
of butter. Pour over them i egg beaten with i 
ounce sugar and i ounce of chopped almonds, 
bake this until done, and serve cold. 



QUINCE PIE. (Spain.) 

Line a plate with paste, bake it brown, fill it 
with a layer of quince marmalade, then whipped 
cream, flavored with sugar and wine, and deco- 
rated with preserved cherries, angelica, or citron. 
Serve cold. 

ENGLISH PINEAPPLE PIE. 

Line a plate with puff paste, bake it lo min- 
utes, or longer, to raise the crust. Fill it with a 
puree of pineapple cooked with sugar, the juice of 
a lemon, and a little nutmeg or vanilla until thick. 
Pour over this a meringue as for lemon pie, of 
sugar and white of eggs, bake till a light brown. 
Serve cold. 

MANHEIM ROLLS. (Germany.) 

Mix 1 eggs, 6 ounces flour, i ounces sugar, and 
I ounce of anise seed to a paste. Cut into long 
rolls, twist them, glaze with yolk of egg, and bake 
until brown. For afternoon tea or lunch. 
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SWISS ROLLS. 

Mix I ounce Vienna yeast, i pinch of salt, ^ 
pint tepid milk, i ounce of butter, and i pound 
of flour well together. Cover and set aside for 3 
hours. Make into a dough with i^ gills of 
milk, lukewarm, and set for ^ hour longer. Roll 
into fancy shapes, set to rise in the pan for 15 
minutes. Bake in a hot oven 20 minutes. Serve 
with coffee or chocolate, for breakfast. 

VIENNA ROLLS. 

These excellent rolls are served fresh, for break- 
fast, with good coffee, with whipped cream on top, 
unsalted butter, and fresh eggs, sometimes honey, 
too. They should be eaten the same day as made. 

Mix 2^ pints of flour, 3 eggs, i gill of milk, 
I ounce of yeast, melted in the milk, and a pinch 
of salt. Beat all well ; set aside to rise. Put on a 
floured board, roll into a thin sheet, cut into 
squares of 6 inches, fold these across so that a 
point comes on top, pull the ends to form a horse- 
shoe, paint with white of egg to make them flaky, 
and bake in a hot oven. 

FRENCH ROLLS. 

Dissolve a teacupful of yeast in i quart of 
warm milk, add i pound of fine flour, and set to rise 

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3 hours. Add a tablespoonful of sugar, a pinch 
of salt, and make it into a dough. Let it rise 
now 4 hours, then knead it on a board, roll very- 
thin, cut in squares, fold as above, make into 
horseshoes, bake them, after brushing them with 
melted butter, and setting to rise for ^ hour, for 
1 5 minutes, in a hot oven. 



^ 



Chapter Six — Ices, Preserves, and 
Confections 

FLORENTINE ICE CREAM. 

Make a custard of the yolks of 6 eggs, the 
rind of i orange, and ^ pint of boihng syrup, 
made of sugar and water. Beat with an egg- 
beater, but do not let it boil. Add ^ pint of 
cream, mix well, and strain. Freeze it for i 
hours, and turn out of the mould on a dish. 

GINGER ICE CREAM. (England.) 

Mix on the fire 6 ounces of sugar, rind of a 
lemon, and yolks of 6 eggs. Add i^ pints of 
boiling cream, and stir until it is thick. Add 2 
ounces of chopped preserved ginger, mixed with a 
spoonful of rum, and pounded. Stir for a while, 
then strain ; freeze it 3 hours. Serve it with 
sponge cakes or jumbles. 

FRENCH NUT PUDDING, ICED. 

Chop 4 ounces of shelled and blanched nuts, 
filberts, or pecans, add 4 ounces of sugar, and cook 
until brown but not burnt. Add ^ a pint of 
milk and a spoonful of vanilla. The nuts must be 
pounded before adding to the rest. Mix yolks of 



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8 eggs with 5 ounces of sugar, add the nuts, etc., 
and I pint of boiling cream. Stir until smooth, 
strain it, and freeze 2 hours. Serve it with a cold 
custard sauce. 

ICED RAISIN PUDDING. (France.) 

Pick and seed j4 pound of fine raisins, add }4 
gill of maraschino cordial, and simmer until soft. 
Beat yolks of 6 eggs and 6 ounces of sugar, add 
i^ pints of cream, and stir until thick. Then 
add ij4 ounces of melted gelatine, stir, and add 
^2 gill more cordial. Pack into a mould, set on 
ice, but do not freeze. Serve with little fancy- 
cakes. 

PRALINE. (French Almond Ice.) 

Blanch, chop, and brown ^ pound of almonds, 
stir them with 4 ounces of sugar until a reddish 
color, then pound to a paste. Add ij4 pints of 
boiling milk, yolks of 8 eggs, and 6 ounces of 
sugar. Stir till thick, add ij4 ounces of gelatine, 
melted ; strain all carefully, and add i pint of 
whipped cream. Pour into a mould and freeze 2 
hours. 

FROZEN ORANGES. (French.) 

Scoop out the pulp from 4 large oranges, open- 
ing a small hole only. Cover the skins with water 
while the juice is strained ; add i glass of any kind 

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of cordial, sugar to taste, a cup of mixed chopped 
raisins, candied peel, and peach preserves. Fill 
the skins with this and freeze. Serve in the skins, 
on a plate, garnished with leaves or flowers. 

JUDITHA. (A recipe of the Polish Jews.) 

Cook I pint of gooseberries, mash, and strain 
them. Add 2 beaten eggs, and sugar to taste. 
Have ready a mould of vanilla ice cream frozen, 
scoop out the centre, fill it with this, freeze 
it again, and turn out on a dish. This is a very- 
good and little known combination. 

RAISINEE DE BOURGOGNE. 

This is an old and very delicious French mar- 
malade. Boil 2 pounds of ripe grapes with i cup 
of water, stirring until soft. The grapes must, of 
course, be free from seeds and stems. Press 
through a sieve, forcibly ; add 2 pounds of ripe 
pears, peeled and sliced, and stir until reduced to 
half the amount. Sweeten to taste, strain again, 
and put into jars. Set it, in the jars, in the oven 
overnight, then keep in a cool place. Serve with 
toast or rolls, for breakfast or afternoon tea. 

JAM COMBINATIONS. 

The good housewives of Southern France, Pro- 
vence, — and of the part near Bar-le-Duc, which is 
famous for its preserves, — have many secrets of 

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combining two flavors by long boiling of the fruits. 
This results in a very fine marmalade, little known 
over here. Indeed, almost every old lady has her 
special kind which she offers to guests, saying : 
" My grandmother made it so ! " Some of these 
combinations are given, and if tried, will be found 
delightful: i. Black Currant and Apples. i. 
Black Currant and Rhubarb. 3. Cherry and 
Raspberry. 4. Red Currants and Raspberry. 5. 
White Currants and Gooseberries. 6. Lemon 
and Green Gages. 7. Apple and Quinces. 8. 
Rhubarb and Orange. 9. Lemon and Apple. 
10. Apricot and Plum. 

DAMSON CHEESE. (England.) 

Select sound, ripe plums. Put in a stone jar 
with ^ pound of sugar to each pound of fruit. 
Set the jar in boiling water, and cook until tender. 
Remove the stones, and cook longer, to a pulp. 
Add now yi pound sugar to each pound of fruit, and 
cook slowly until thick and almost dry. Put into 
jars, seal, and keep in a cool place. Slice, to eat 
with toast or bread. 

CHERRIES AND CURRANTS IN SYRUP. 

Stone fine, large cherries, red ones preferred. 
Boil i^ pints water, and i pound sugar for each 
pound of fruit, cook 15 minutes, add the fruit and 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

cook 20 minutes more. Strain the syrup, add to 
it the juice of i pint of currants to each 4 pounds 
of cherries, some brandy or maraschino, and cook 
10 minutes rapidly. Pour over the fruit, and seal 
hot. 

RASPBERRIES AND CURRANTS. (Bar-le-Duc.) 

To 4 pounds of raspberries add i pound of 
currants. Bruise the currants, and strain the juice. 
Add to it ^ pound of sugar to each pound of 
juice, including the weight of the berries, left 
whole. Boil and skim for 20 minutes, add the 
fruit, — raspberries, — and cook 20 minutes more. 
When the syrup jellies on a plate, take off, and 
bottle, while hot, in jars. 

SOME OLD ENGLISH RECIPES. 

APPLE AND QUINCE JAM. 

Take i pint of quince juice, left from preserves, 
add I pound of sliced apples, and ^ pound of 
sugar. Boil 2 hours, stirring well. Pour into 
glasses while hot and seal. The jam must be 
thick and well blended. 

LEMON AND RHUBARB JAM. 

Scrape, slice, and weigh the rhubarb, allow i 
pound of sugar, chopped rind of i large lemon, 

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and Y^ ounce of bitter almonds, sliced, to each 
i^ pounds of rhubarb. Boil very gently, stirring 
often, for ^^ hour. Add the juice of the lemons^ 

— as many as are required in above proportions, 

— boil a little longer, until thick, and pour into 
jars. Put the nuts in a bag, and take them out 
before sealing. Young rhubarb needs about ^ 
hour to cook ; old fruit requires i yi hours. 

RHUBARB AND ORANGE JAM. 

Wash, scrape, and slice the rhubarb ; to each 
pint add ^ pound of sugar, and the rind and 
pulp of 3 oranges. Discard the pith and seeds. 
Cook slowly for i hours. Put into jars and seal. 
This and the one above, made with lemons, are 
excellent to eat for breakfast, with hot cakes. 

GOOSEBERRY AND CURRANT JAM. 

Pick and trim some fine ripe gooseberries, add i 
cup of red currant juice to each 3 pounds of 
berries, and to each pound add i pound of sugar. 
Mash fine, reduce to a pulp, cook until thick, and 
put in jars. 

LEMON JAM. 

This is used to eat with toast or hot cakes, or 
as sauce for puddings. 

Mix the grated rind and juice of 3 lemons with 
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I pound sugar, 5 eggs, — the yolks only, — and ^ 
ounce of butter. Cook in a double boiler, stirring 
often, until thick. Set away to cool. Will keep 
a week or more, in a cold place. 

APRICOT JAM. 

Pare and stone 3 pounds of apricots, add i 
pound of sugar, and let them stand 8 hours. 
Then cook them, with a few of the kernels, and 
another ly^ pounds of sugar, making in all lyi 
pounds to each 3 pounds of fruit. Boil gently, 
mash with a spoon until thick, and put in jars. 

GREEN GAGE JAM. 

Wash the fruit, and to each pound allow i 
pound of sugar. Remove the stones, cover with 
the sugar, and let it stand for 6 hours. Simmer 
until it is thick, press through a colander, cook i 
hour more, and put in jars. 

GOOSEBERRY JAM. 

Trim the berries, and allow i pound of sugar 
and the juice of a lemon to each pound of fruit. 
Bring to a boil, skim it, then cook, stirring often 
until thick, and it jellies on a plate. Strain 
through a colander, and put into jars. Strawberry 
or blackberry, or any other jam, is made this way. 

218 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

SCOTCH ORANGE MARMALADE. 

Weigh the oranges and set aside an equal weight 
of sugar. Put the fruit, whole, into cold water to 
cover, bring to a boil, pour off the water and add 
as much more, and simmer until the fruit can be 
easily pierced with a fork. Cut the fruit in thin 
slices, throw away all of the seeds, return to the 
water, add the sugar and cook until it jellies, about 
an hour or less. Put into jars for use. They can 
be cooked with the same amount of sugar, cutting 
the skin first into strips, discarding the pith and 
membrane and seeds, and adding the pulp to the 
water and sugar. 

ROSE JELLY, to serve with Pork or Game. (England.) 

Collect the red seed pods of the rose when the 
frost has turned them, wash them, slit open, and 
take out the seeds. Add to every pint of pips ^ 
pint of white wine vinegar and ^ pound of sugar. 
Boil and stir rapidly, rub through a sieve, and cook 
for Yq, hour longer. Cool and pack into tumblers, 
for use. Will keep in a cool place. 

ALMACK'S PRESERVES. (Old English recipe.) 

Split, pare, and stone i dozen plums, i dozen 
apples, I dozen pears. Arrange them in an earthen 
jar in alternate layers, adding i pound of sugar to 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

each pound of fruit. Set in a pan of water and 
stir constantly on the fire until thick, about i hour. 
When cold, cut in slices. 

GERMAN METHOD OF PRESERVING FRUIT. 

Weisbaden is famous for its perfect preserves, — 
whole and well flavored, in syrup. A German 
housewife of repute insists that this recipe is the 
secret method so profitable to the firm. It results, 
at least, in a good imitation and good eating. 

Take i pound of sugar to each pound of cher- 
ries, strawberries, currants, plums, etc., any fruit, 
but cooked alone. Put the sugar with ^ as much 
water on the fire, make a thick syrup, put the fruit 
in it, and boil it but once. Pour into earthen 
plates, cover with sheets of glass and set in the 
hottest sun for 3 days, taking it in at night or 
covering with oilcloth. The natural heat draws 
out the flavor better than any stove, and the fruit 
keeps its shape perfectly. Put into jars and seal 
closely, for use. 

TUTTI-FRUTTI. (Italian way of preserving mixed fruits.) 

Italy is a country of confectionery. It was 
Italians, as princesses, marrying kings of France, 
who brought luxurious cooking, especially the 
making of sweets, to Paris. Before those days, 
France was barbarous. 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

Take i pound each of strawberries, currants, 
huckleberries, cherries, peaches, plums, grapes, and 
pineapple, each in season, if not possible to get at 
once. Cut up and stone the large fruit. Add ^ 
pound of sugar to each 2 pounds of fruit and ^ 
pint of brandy. Put in layers, with only the sugar 
and brandy between. Good for ice creams. Do 
not cook it at all. Add some cooked chestnuts to 
it when using for ice cream, in proportion of ^ 
pint of mixed fruit to each quart of cream. 

ROSELEAF JAM. (A Greek recipe.) 

Gather the petals of fresh red roses, being sure 
that they are free from insects. Add an equal 
amount of sugar and only enough water to dis- 
solve. Set in the sun under glass until the sugar 
is well melted, then cook it for 20 minutes, 
stirring well. Pour into jars and cork tightly. 
Served with coffee, to guests, who call in the 
afternoon. 

TURKISH DELIGHTS. 

These are the sweetmeats of the harem, imported 
at such high prices. Boil 2^ pounds of loaf sugar 
with i^ pints of water ; when it is clear, add 65 
drachms of starch, dissolved in a little cold water. 
Stir until the sugar has become a thick paste, add 
25 drachms of water and i cup of chopped 

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almonds ; flavor with rose, lemon, or any fruit 
extract. Pour into oiled pans, i inch deep. When 
cold, cut into squares and dip each into powdered 
sugar. They will keep some time in tin boxes. 

CITRON DIAMONDS. (Another Turkish confection.) 

Pare and chop i large fresh citron. Cover it 
with water and boil until tender. Drain it, add 
enough lemon juice or lime juice to cover. Re- 
new, by straining this juice, for 3 days. Drain it 
finally, put into enough boiling syrup of sugar 
and water, and stir until a thick, green paste. 
Add y^ cup of rosewater, and boil until it hardens 
when dropped into ice water. Pour into oiled 
pans, yi inch deep ; when cold, cut into diamonds, 
dip in sugar, and put away in boxes. 

ALMOND NOUGAT. (Montelimert, France.) 

Boil 4 ounces gum arabic and 8 ounces of cold 
water until clear; strain, add i pound of pulverized 
sugar, and stir on the fire until thick. Beat it 
with an egg-beater, add then the stiffly beaten 
white of I egg, a tablespoonful of vanilla, and a 
pound of blanched and chopped almonds. Pour 
into an oiled mould, after stirring well ; set in a dry 
place to cool, cut into squares, and wrap each in 
oiled paper. 

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With a Saucepan over the Sea 

MARRONS GLACEES. (Paris.) 

Boil, shell, and chop 2^ pounds of fine chest- 
nuts ; add i cup of sugar and pound to a paste. 
Put in a pan with i cup of milk, a tablespoonful 
of butter, and a teaspoonful of vanilla. Stir until 
thick and smooth. Take off, cool, make it into 
balls ; and when hard, dip each in chocolate or 
coffee icing. Serve for afternoon tea or dessert. 

LEMON AND MARASCHINO BONBONS. (Italy.) 

Soak 2 ounces of gum arable in enough water 
to dissolve, add ]/^ pint of maraschino, and enough 
sugar to make a stiff paste when beaten. Make 
into balls, dip each into some good lemon icing, 
set aside to dry and use for dessert, or for enter- 
tainments. 

BARLEY SUGAR. (England.) 

This is a favorite candy with English school- 
children, and it is more harmless than most 
confections. 

Dissolve any amount needed, say i pound of 
granulated sugar, in only enough water to moisten. 
Cook it until clear and it will crack when dropped 
in water. Flavor with the juice of a lemon, pour 
into oiled pans, and when almost stiff, cut into 
strips and twist these, dusting with powdered 
sugar. 

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APPLE SUGAR. (Germany.) 

Boil I pint of the juice of cooked apples, or as 
much cider with 2 pounds of sugar, until it cracks 
when dropped in cold water. Take out in spoon- 
fuls, twist into sticks, dust with sugar as above, 
for use. 

CURRANT LOZENGES. (England.) 

Cook 3 quarts of ripe currants with a little 
water, bruising until soft. Press out all the juice, 
add ^ pound of sugar to each pint, simmer ^ 
hour, add ^ ounce of gelatine to each quart of 
this, stir well, pour into pans. When cold, dry- 
ing near the fire, cut into diamonds, and dust 
with sugar. Put away, or serve for dessert or 
entertainments. 

CANDIED ANGELICA. (France.) 

Cut the stalks, free from roots and leaves, in 
April. Cut into inch-pieces, cover with sugar 
syrup, and cook until tender. Drain them, dust 
with powdered sugar, dry in the oven, and put 
away tightly for decorating puddings or ices or 
flavoring desserts. 

MARCHPANE. (Germany.) 

Chop i^ pound of sweet and ^ ounce of bitter 
almonds. Add 5^ pound of sugar, and boil to a 

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paste. Knead it well, roll thin, and cut into 
squares. When these are dry, dip them in fancy 
icing, and use for dessert. 

SIENNA CANDY. (Italy.) 

Boil I pint of honey, 2 pounds of chopped 
almonds, ^ pound of chopped filberts or pecans, 
a teaspoonful of cinnamon in powder, and ^ 
pound of grated chocolate. When thick and 
smooth, cool and roll out, cut into round cakes 
and dry in the oven. 

VIENNA CHOCOLATE. 

Scald 3 cups of milk and i cup of cream, add 
3 heaping tablespoonfuls of grated chocolate, 2 of 
sugar, the same of cornstarch, and a teaspoonful of 
vanilla. Stir until smooth, cook 5 minutes more, 
beat the whites of 2 eggs very stiff with a spoon- 
ful of sugar. Add a spoonful to each cup when 
serving the chocolate. 

TURKISH COFFEE. 

Boil 8 coffee cupfuls of cold water, add 8 tea- 
spoonfuls of sugar and 12 spoonfuls of ground 
Mocha ; stir it ; when it bubbles, take it off. Do 
this 3 times. Then let it settle ; pour it equally 
into each cup. 

IS 225 



Chapter Seven — Hot and Cold Drinks 

HEIDELBERG PUNCH, OR HEBE'S CUP. 

Peel and slice i large cucumber ; add the thin 
rind of a lemon and 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar ; 
mix well. Add 3 tablespoonfuls of brandy, 6 of 
sherry, a pint bottle of vichy, and a pint bottle 
of claret. Mix these thoroughly ; set on ice an 
hour before serving. 

SOME ENGLISH RECIPES. 

REGENT'S PUNCH. 

Grate the rind of 1 lemons and 1 oranges, then 
add a teaspoonful of vanilla, 4 cloves, and i inch 
of cinnamon stick. Cover with a hot syrup made 
of i^ pounds of sugar and i pint of water. In- 
fuse in a warm place several hours, add the juice 
of 12 lemons and i pint of rum. Strain it; serve 
very cold. 

GEORGE THE IV.'S PUNCH. 

Mix on the fire ^ pound of sugar, grated rind 
of I lemon, and 1 oranges, with the juice and 
pulp. Add I cup of boiling water, stir until cold, 
then add ^ pint of pineapple syrup, ^ pint of 

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strong green tea, i large glass of maraschino, 5 
tablespoonfuls of rum, i pint of brandy, and i pint 
or more of champagne. Strain, add more sugar, 
if desired, and serve very cold. 

PONY PUNCH. 

Mix I cup of gunpowder tea, the zest of a 
lemon rubbed on 3 lumps of sugar, i teaspoonful 
of powdered cinnamon, juice of 3 lemons, a little 
nutmeg, and ^ pound of sugar made into syrup, 
with ^ pint of water, also i pint of white wine, 
^ pint each of brandy, rum, and whiskey. Mix, 
boil it, and strain it. Serve very hot. 

INSTITUTION CUP. 

Mix I pint of champagne, i gill of pineapple 
syrup, I gill of strawberry syrup, i sliced orange, 
and I glass of brandy. Shake well and pour into 
tumblers half full of shaved ice. 

OXFORD GRACE CUP. 

The juice of a lemon, and the thin grated rind 
of a lemon, must be added to some beer, i^ pints, 
then add i pint of sherry, and sugar to taste. Stir 
until dissolved, add 4 slices of toasted bread, and 
set aside for 1 hours. Add a grating of nutmeg 
and serve cold. 

227 



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CHAMPAGNE CUP. 

Mix I bottle of champagne, 2 bottles of soda 
water, a glass of brandy, a glass of Cura9oa, some 
slices of cucumber peel, and the juice of a lemon. 
Moselle or Sauterne can be made into cups, the 
same way. 

GRANDFATHER'S NIGHTCAP. (Old English.) 

Fifty or a hundred years ago every middle-aged 
gentleman, and a great many ladies, took a hot 
drink before retiring at nine or ten o'clock. Nowa- 
days, the same class of people are apt to sit up 
very late and to depend upon drugs for a good 
night's sleep. 

Beat the yolk of i egg with ^ teaspoonful 
of allspice and i gill of rum, a tablespoonful of 
sugar melted in i cup of boiling water. Whisk 
this well and stir ; strain into a hot glass, placing 
the beaten white on top, dusted with nutmeg. 

BROWN BETTY (an old Oxford drink). 

Melt I pound of sugar in i pint of water ; add, 
when boiling, a pinch of cloves, pounded, some 
cinnamon, ^ pint of brandy and i quart of good 
ale. Add a little ginger and nutmeg. Serve it 
in glasses, ice-cold in summer, and very hot in 
winter. 

228 



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LAWN SLEEVE. (Old English.) 

Roast a lemon, stuck with 3 cloves ; add ^ cup 
of water, a pinch of mace, allspice, and cinnamon. 
Stir on the fire, add i quart of sherry and 4 spoon- 
fuls of melted calf's foot jelly, the lemon cut in 
slices, and 6 lumps of sugar, and after boiling, some 
nutmeg. Serve hot, in a bowl. 

MARIGOLD WINE. (England.) 

Boil 6 pounds sugar, i pound honey, 2^ gal- 
lons water, and the beaten whites of 2 eggs, for i 
hour. Add, skimming often, 3 quarts of marigold 
flowers and i pound of stoned raisins. Cover 
and stir often, for three days ; add the chopped 
rinds of 2 oranges, ^^ pound sugar, 2 tablespoon- 
fuls yeast, and ^ pint of brandy. Strain and keep 
nine months before using. 

METHEGLIN. (Old German and English.) 

Mix y^ gallon currant juice, 4 gallons of boil- 
ing water, 7^ pounds of honey, ^ ounce of cream 
of tartar, for ^ hour. Let it ferment, add i quart 
of brandy, strain, and bottle. Use in 3 months 
time. 

BITTERS FOR COCKTAILS. (England.) 

Infuse I ounce cardamom seeds, 4 ounces gen- 
tian root, 2 ounces sliced orange peel, in 2 quarts 

229 



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of rectified spirit for i week. Then strain for use 
and bottle. 

ATHOLE BROSE (for a cold). (England.) 

Boil I tablespoonful ground oatmeal, yi pint 
water, a tablespoonful honey, and one of cream. 
Add 3 glasses of whiskey punch ; strain it into 
glasses and serve hot. 

OXFORD BISHOP. 

Rub the zest of a lemon on 3 ounces of loaf 
sugar; add the juice of the lemon and a spoonful 
each of cloves, cinnamon, ginger, allspice, and 
mace, and cook with ^ pint of water for ^ hour, 
slowly. Add a pint of good port wine, heat it 
together and serve, without straining, very hot. 

GIN SLING. 

Mix I pint of sugar syrup, a glass of brandy, 
the same of gin, a slice of lemon, and a pint of 
soda water. Serve cold. 

ROMAN PUNCH. 

Mix I pint of champagne, i pint of rum, the 
juice of 12 lemons, the grated rind of the lemons, 
and the whites of 12 eggs beaten to a froth. 
Freeze this and serve in cups. 

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CAUDLE CUP. 

This is old English, a drink offered to callers 
upon a new baby. To i pint of thin oatmeal 
gruel, add yolk of i egg, i glass of sherry or port, 
the grated rind of a lemon, 4 lumps of sugar, and 
a little nutmeg. Heat it on the fire, stir, and 
serve hot. 

CHRISTMAS BOWL. 

Break up 9 small sponge cakes and Y^ pound of 
macaroons in a bowl. All must be stale. Add 
I pint of malaga or sweet raisin wine, 2 table- 
spoonfuls of sherry, 2 ounces of sugar, and some 
nutmeg, also i^ pints of thin custard. Stir well ; 
serve cold with a wreath of holly around the edge. 

WASSAIL. 

This is another Christmas drink, but quite dif- 
ferent. To I pint of ale add yi ounce of grated 
ginger, ^ ounce of grated nutmeg, a pinch of 
cinnamon, and ^ pound of brown sugar. Heat 
it and stir, but do not boil. Add 2 more pints of 
ale and ^ pint of sherry or malaga, the zest of 
a lemon, rubbed on a piece of sugar, and, finally, 
6 cored and roasted apples. It must be served 
hot in a bowl, each person taking an apple in a 
cup, too. 

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SACK POSSET. (Sir Walter Raleigh's recipe.) 

Heat ^ pint of sherry and ^ pint of ale, add 
I quart of boiling milk or cream, sugar to taste, 
and some grated nutmeg. Let it stand on the 
back of the fire an hour, and add, just before serv- 
ing, the yolks of 2 eggs, then beat it all well and 
serve hot. 

SACK POSSET. (Another way.) 

Mix ^ pound of sugar with y^ pint of sweet 
white wine, stir until hot, add the beaten yolks and 
whites of 5 eggs, and i pint of boiling milk and 
some nutmeg. Pour from pitcher to pitcher until 
frothy and serve hot. 

LEMON POSSET. 

Squeeze and strain the juice of 3 lemons, add 3 
tablespoonfuls of sugar, and stir, then i spoonful 
of brandy and nutmeg, i^/^ pints of boiling milk 
which has been heated with the grated rind, add 
some chopped almonds and froth it by pouring 
from a height and serve hot. 

LAMB'S WOOL. 

Heat I pint of good ale, add sugar and nutmeg 
to taste, lemon peel, and a pinch of cloves and 
ginger. Put in a bowl with 3 apples, roasted and 

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sliced, and 3 pieces of toast. Serve very hot, as a 
" nightcap." 

ALE FLIP. 

Mix 3 pints of ale, i tablespoonful of sugar, a 
little mace, i pounded clove, and a tablespoonful 
of butter. Let it boil, add the beaten white of i 
egg, and the yolks of 2. Beat and stir well, to 
make it frothy. 

SCOTCH HOT PINT. 

Mix 2 tablespoonfuls of ale with i well-beaten 
egg, some nutmeg, and }^ pint of whiskey. Stir 
in 2 pints of boiling hot ale, add sugar to taste, 
and pour in from a height to make it frothy. 
Serve hot. 

MULLED WINE. 

This is another old English drink, often met 
in novels in which the early part of the last century 
is depicted. 

Boil I teaspoonful of cinnamon, mace, and cloves, 
in equal parts, with ^ pint of water, and i pint of 
claret and sugar to taste. Stir and serve hot with 
toasted sponge cakes. 

MAY NECTAR. (Germany.) 

Take 6 leaves each of fresh tarragon, milfoil, 
or yarrow, geranium and pimpernel. Add 3 
each of currant, sweet basil, lungwort, balsam, and 

233 



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lavender. Put these with 20 pieces of balm, i of 
peppermint, 2 sprigs of woodruff, a lemon, sliced, 
an orange, sliced, ^ pound of sugar, and 4 pints 
of German Rhine wine. Strain it after it has in- 
fused 2 hours ; add 1 dozen or more large straw- 
berries and serve in a bowl, very cold. The herbs 
may be found in most old-fashioned gardens. 

MEAD, (Old English and German.) 

To 12 gallons of pure water add 20 pounds of 
honey and the whites of 4 eggs, well stirred in. 
Boil I hour, add a spoonful each of ginger, cloves, 
cinnamon, and mace, a little rosemary, then, when 
boiled and cooled, a spoonful of yeast. Let it 
ferment until it stops working. Keep it cool, but 
do not bottle it for use before 6 months. 

CAPILLAIRE. 

This syrup is used in mixing drinks, or taken 
with water, by the people who sit at the little 
tables in Paris, on the sidewalk, at dusk. 

Infuse 20 ounces of fresh maidenhair fern, roots 
and tops, in boiling water to cover it. Keep it 
warm 10 hours, strain it, add sugar to taste, — 3 
pounds to 3 pints of water. Then add 2 table- 
spoonfuls of orangeflower water, cook 5 minutes 
more, strain it, and bottle for use. 

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BLACKBERRY CORDIAL. (Germany.) 

Cook ^ bushel of blackberries until juicy, strain 
under pressure, and add y^ pound of allspice, i 
ounces of cinnamon bark, i ounces of cloves, and 2 
grated nutmegs, all tied in a bag, also i pound of 
loaf sugar to each quart of juice. Simmer 15 
minutes, add i pint of brandy to each 3 pints of 
juice. Bottle closely for medicinal use in hot 
weather. 

RHUBARB WINE. (England.) 

Mash 5 pounds of rhubarb, add i gallon of 
water ; let it stand 5 days, add 4 pounds of sugar 
and the rind of a lemon. Stir it well, set aside, 
strained and covered. In 6 months bottle for 
use. 

ORANGE WINE. 

To make 9 gallons, add the strained juice of 90 
oranges to 27 pounds of sugar in a clean cask. 
Put the pulp, no seeds, to i^ gallons of water. 
Cook all together, strain it, add more water, stir 
every day for 10 days. Bottle it and use it after 
3 months. 

ORANGE BRANDY. (England.) 

Put the thin rind of 6 oranges with ^ pint of 
juice and 1 quarts of French brandy, in a stone 
jar. After 3 days, add i y^ pounds of sugar and 

235 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

stir well. The next day, strain it and cork tightly. 
The longer it is kept, the better the flavor, but it 
can be used in a month. 

DAMSON WINE. 

Bruise 2% gallons of damson plums, add 1 
gallons of boiling sugar syrup, made of 3^ gallons 
of water and 7 pounds of sugar, boiled down. Cook 
I hour. When cool, add i gill of yeast. Cover for 
9 days, strain it and add i pound of chopped 
raisins ; when it stops working, add ^ ounce of 
essence of almonds and strain and bottle. Keep 
it 10 months before using. 

CURRANT WINE. (England.) 

Stem the currants, put in a bag and bring to a 
boil with enough water to cover. Press out the 
juice, add 1 gallons of water to each gallon of 
juice, and 1 tablespoonfuls of yeast. Cover for 1 
days ; add 3 pounds of sugar to each gallon of 
wine ; stir and strain it and keep it 3 months before 
bottling for use. It improves with age. 

GOOSEBERRY CHAMPAGNE. (England.) 

Trim and mash sufficient fruit, sound but un- 
ripe ; add to each gallon i gallon of water and 
cover for 1 days. Keep it in a warm place and 
stir it often. Strain it under pressure, add 4 

236 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

pounds of sugar to each gallon, and cover for 3 
days more. Then strain it, add Yz pint of gin. 
Keep it in a cask 1 2 months, then bottle for use. 

IRISH USQUEBAUGH. 

Stem I pound large raisins, add the zest of an 
orange on lumps of sugar, bruise well, add ^ 
ounce each of cloves and cardamom seeds, and ^ 
a nutmeg, grated. Put in a jar, add ^ gallon of 
brandy or light whiskey, ^ pound of rock candy, 
and some brown coloring. Shake every day, and 
in 2 weeks strain it and bottle for use. It is a 
cordial, very old-fashioned. 

ORGEAT. (France.) 

Pound )^ pound of blanched almonds, add i 
ounce rosewater and i quart of boiling water ; 
cool, strain, and sweeten it. Use to flavor 
dessert. 

NOYEAU. (France.) 

Blanch y^ pound bitter almonds, add the grated 
rind of i lemon, bruise and pound in a mortar, 
and then put in a jar with i gallon of good spirits 
of wine and i quart of water. Cork it very tight, 
shake it each day for a week, add 2 pounds of 
sugar made into a syrup with i quart of water. 
Strain it, cover it, in a week bottle it closely. 
Improves with age. 

237 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

KIRSCH. (Germany.) 

This cordial can be bought at the grocer's, but 
is more cheaply made at home. Mash i pound 
of wild plums, take out the stones, and open them 
to get the kernels. Cover pulp and kernels with 
I gallon of brandy, add sugar to taste, and let it 
stand I month. Strain and bottle for use. 

CURACOA. (France.) 

Peel and chop the rind of 8 oranges, cover for 
3 days with i gallon of French brandy, strain 
it, add 3 pounds sugar, stir and bottle tightly, 
using small bottles. Improves with age. Use 
for flavoring. 

QUINCE CORDIAL. (Germany.) 

This is good for flavoring or to drink. Grate 
enough quinces to make i quart of juice when 
squeezed dry ; add i pound sugar, 6 ounces of 
bruised bitter almonds, ^ dozen cloves, and i 
gill of brandy. Mix and cover, set aside for 2 
weeks. Strain it and bottle it. 

NONPAREIL CORDIAL. (France.) 

Peel and grate i large pineapple, add i8 fine 
green gages, I2 seckel pears; to each 4 pounds of 
fruit add 6 pounds of sugar and 3 pints water. 

238 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

The fruit must be cut fine. Cook ^ hour, 
skimming often. Strain it; add, when cold, 3 
quarts of gooseberry brandy. Keep 6 weeks 
before use. 

VIOLET VINEGAR. (Germany.) 

Gather the flowers only of wood violets ; cover 
with wine vinegar, and set in the sun in a closed 
jar, for 4 weeks. Use a glass jar. Strain it, and 
cork for use. A spoonful in water, with sugar, 
will cure nervous headaches. 

POSTSCRIPT. 

HINTS AND SECRETS. 

The kitchen lore of the old countries across the 
sea includes many useful bits of wisdom. Expe- 
rience teaches even fools after a space of time, but 
a bright individual needs but a hint. Some of 
these ideas have reached us, having been intro- 
duced by the various excellent teachers in cooking 
schools, who have done their utmost to spread 
light and lessen extravagance and illnesses, result- 
ing directly or indirectly, from that waste. 

In speaking generally, we will say that England 
is foremost in the art of roasting and broiling 
meats ; France takes the palm for soups and sauces 
— a soup is only a prolonged sauce; Germany 

239 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

and Austria are prize bakers of bread, cakes, and 
pastry ; Italy and Hungary excel in fancy des- 
serts and confectionery, — all the best confection- 
ers or their head cooks are Italians ; and Spain 
and Russia follow at the rear, trying, with indiffer- 
ent success, to imitate the other countries in each 
branch of the great art. Norway and Sweden 
have a peculiar place apart ; they know how to do 
everything domestic in the cleanest, cleverest way, 
and are cosy, home-loving people, but have been 
so quiet since their last war — long ago — with 
the neighboring countries, and so isolated in situ- 
ation, that few travellers realize how fine they are • 
indeed, they combine the vivacity and ingenuity 
of the French with English patience and neatness 
and German honesty and thoroughness. Some 
day a Swedish cook-book will be written to aston- 
ish the world. 

Foreign cooks use very little salt and pepper 
compared with Americans. Good pure food, 
with the simple, fresh flavor inherent, does not 
require seasoning to heighten its excellence, and 
stale meat or adulterated materials are not thus 
rendered any more wholesome. In coming back 
to America after a trip abroad, you notice first the 
excess of salt in everything, especially bread and 
butter; then the muddy complexions and harsh 

240 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

voices. Too much sah, as any one knows, irritates 
the mucous membranes and causes skin diseases, 
and too much pepper inflames and dries the blood, 
injuring the liver beyond repair. 

In Europe, especially in France, they think 
that soup is most important once a day, strong, 
nourishing, satisfying. Even the poorest peasant 
has good broth. It satisfies hunger, keeping one 
from eating too much meat ; and according to 
French tradition, the glass of light wine taken 
after, called " le coup d'apres," robs the doctor 
of a fee. If stock is made, and all scraps utilized, 
soup can be had each day for dinner. Nothing 
need be wasted. Even the dish of hash, left over, 
can be turned into excellent soup. If it were 
heated again, it would be tough and tasteless. 
An onion, a carrot, some herbs, and the meat 
with the gravy must be put with enough water, 
boiled an hour or more, strained and thickened 
with flour and butter, then, say, a little boiled rice 
added, or some croutons, with salt and pepper. 
Half a dish of macaroni and cheese, with the 
gravy and bones of fried chicken, an onion, a 
carrot, a bit of celery, and some herbs, water, of 
course, will, if cooked awhile, and rubbed through 
a sieve with the addition of a cup of boiling milk, 
the yolk of an egg, or some butter and flour, salt, 

i6 241 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

pepper, and chopped parsley, and a pinch of nut- 
meg, result in a very appetizing soup. So on 
indefinitely. Not a scrap need be wasted ; when 
first principles are learned, inspiration can guide. 
Centuries of taxation have taught foreigners such 
economy. 

In making soup stock, strain it, after long sim- 
mering, but let it cool in an open bowl. Next 
day, remove the cake of fat on top ; clarify it by 
cooking it in a pan of water. The Impurities will 
sink to the bottom, and the fat in a solid piece can 
be used for frying or braising, as the flavor, in- 
cluding vegetables and herbs, is better tasting and 
more wholesome than lard. French cooks, too, 
take the fat from chicken broth when it cools, 
clarify it, then use it instead of butter for pastry or 
delicate frying. Fish should have a separate pan 
of fat, clarified after each time of using, and this, 
instead of being thrown away, will keep some time 
in a cold place. 

In preparing stock, cut up the meat into dice, 
split the bones so that the marrow will come out, 
and add to the nutriment, then clean and cut the 
vegetables with exceeding care. Potatoes should 
first be parboiled before using in soups or stews, 
as they belong to the deadly nightshade family, and 
the poison passes off with the first water. Onions 

242 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

and garlic, so beloved by the French and Italians, 
lose their sharpness and rank flavor by parboiling. 
One of the best French hotels in New York, where 
the opera stars always go for certain country 
dishes, dear to their childhood, has a special sauce 
of garlic, for entrees, a recipe of Gascony, but so 
delicate, because of this first boiling, that few 
people can resist it. 

About a quart of cold water to each pound of 
meat, with one teaspoonful of salt added, when 
the stock is strained to be put away, one spoonful 
to each quart of stock, is the right proportion. 
Use as little pepper as possible. Some of our 
most expensive hotels ruin their cooking with too 
much pepper. A French cook would be offended 
if more pepper or salt was asked for at the table, 
for the proper amount should be added before 
serving. 

Cold cooked vegetables are never nice warmed 
up ; a foreign cook would turn the beans or peas, 
or whatever it is, into a cream soup, made with 
milk and yolk of egg, if stock is not at hand, or 
would use them to garnish meats, or served with 
mayonnaise as a mixed salad. Equal parts, say a 
cupful each, of peas, string beans, potatoes, carrots, 
or cauliflower, make a salad fit to give the most 
fastidious guest. Pretty garnishing of lemon or 

243 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

parsley, hard-boiled eggs, or any vegetable, has 
much to do with the looks of a dish, as well as to the 
taste, for the mouth literally waters when hunger 
is excited by the eye or the sense of smell, and 
digestion is easier when food is enjoyed. 

The water in which vegetables or rice has been 
cooked — excepting potatoes and cabbage — would 
be used by a French cook, with additions, to make 
good soup ; the water from boiled mutton, with 
herbs, onions, carrots, rice, or barley, is not bad 
when served as mutton broth, and the water from 
boiled fish, with the same seasoning, some milk 
and oysters, with the liquor from the oysters, and 
flour and butter to thicken it, results in a nice 
soup, richer in flavor than the usual stewed oysters. 
Even a chicken can be cooked with water to make 
soup, then taken out, stuffed in the way generally 
done, with bread-crumbs, etc., and dredged with 
flour, and basted with butter or the fat of bacon, 
in the oven, will provide a palatable roast. This 
is because most of the flavor, as well as the weight, 
departs in smoke or steam, in cooking. Meats, 
fried or roasted before the fire, lose from one- 
quarter to one-third their size and considerable of 
their succulence. That is why cooks grow fat, 
absorbing the best of what they send to the dining- 
room while bending over the fire. Braising is the 

244 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

method used in Europe for making a dish of meat 
or fish rich and appetizing, since only by braising, 
in a closely covered saucepan, and slow cooking, 
can the effect be obtained. French cooks put 
charcoal, or live coals, on the hollow lid of the 
earthen pan, to improve the flavor, but a tin pie 
plate, with the same addition, will do as well. 

A little box of growing herbs, the price and 
names and uses of which can be found in any large 
florist's catalogue, lightens expense, and helps to 
make soups, sauces, and salads savory. Plants 
always grow well in the kitchen because of the 
moisture and warmth. The French cook knows a 
trick of giving a delicious flavor, by rubbing the 
gridiron, or the joint of mutton, or the inside of 
the soup-pot, with a bit of garlic. Only the best 
of it is left to accentuate the original flavor. The 
chapon, or bit of bread rubbed with garlic, is used 
in salad, mixing with the dressing, and imparting a 
fascinating but indescribable touch. It is an insult 
to human beings to ofi^er the meat or stews merely 
warmed over. Even an English woman will broil 
thick slices of rare beef or mutton, serving them 
with a good sauce, and English children are never 
given cold meat, but have soup or chops, or 
milk puddings, because it takes sharp hunger and 
strong digestions to assimilate meat that is cold or 

245 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

cooked twice. The albumen of the meat becomes 
tougher. 

But stewed kidney and liver are fairly good 
when properly prepared a second time. The 
kidney, with onion, gravy, herbs, and tomatoes, 
makes a nice sauce for an omelette ; and the liver, 
if chopped very fine, can be used with bread- 
crumbs, to stuff baked tomatoes, or egg-plant or 
cabbage. It can be made into forcemeat balls for 
meat pies or soups, or cut up into dice, served with 
rice, and a little stock, to imitate chicken pilaff. 
Stock is so much better for the basis of sauces than 
hot water that every cook should manage, by in- 
telligent thrift, to have a supply on hand, and 
even half a cupful will improve a dish wonder- 
fully. Bits of cold ham or bacon, chopped fine 
and added to a little stock, makes the sauce richer, 
— in fact, a few bones, a bit of ham, an onion, a 
carrot, some celery and parsley, and a pint of 
water boiled down to half, will, if strained and 
seasoned, take the place of real stock. A cup of 
stewed tomatoes can be turned into sauce or soup, 
or the end and bone of a beefsteak, with barley, 
herbs, a bayleaf, carrot, onion, and a cup of toma- 
toes, added to the water needed, will result in a 
good broth. When it is strained and seasoned, 
a little sugar improves it. French cooks use 

246 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

sugar for a great many things ; a little goes a 
long way, however. 

Ijistead of hash, which grows tiresome, a foreign 
cook will often serve a savory sausage, chopping 
equal parts of beef or veal, and pork with herbs, 
onion, and seasoning, binding it in sausage skins — 
always to be obtained from the butcher — and 
boiling them an hour. The famous and dainty 
sausages of Aries and Lyons contain garlic and 
chopped truffles. When cooking eggs, these can 
be fried in the same pan, and are, at least, pure 
and harmless. Food is often wasted by keeping 
it improperly ; the soup allowed to get cool under 
a plate which turns it sour, or the milk or butter 
left too close to fish or meat, or the vegetables and 
dry groceries allowed to get mouldy through being 
kept in a warm, damp place. A cook who likes 
her business, or a wife who has the welfare of her 
family at heart, should be glad of any hints relat- 
ing to these matters. The Germans aptly say 
that the kitchen is to the house what the stomach 
is to the body. And also, when the doctor calls, 
he should enter by way of the back door, and 
thank the cook for that neglect which calls for 
his costly visits. 

A plain cook should know how to boil, bake, 
fry, and broil. A fancy one is supposed to know 

247 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

how to lard meats, to bone fowls, whip cream, 
make good mayonnaise and croquettes, stock and 
glaze and ices. Rolls and bread and pickles and 
preserves are sold at the grocer's, but every-day 
cookery of substantial food has to be done at 
home. Here are a few more ideas. To glaze 
meats, reduce beef stock by rapid boiling, and 
when as thick as molasses, paint the surface of 
roasts, to make them shine. A boiled ham — 
ham and tongue and corned beef should cool in 
the liquor they are cooked in, to give them tender- 
ness and flavor — is a very ornamental dish, decked 
with a paper frill around the bone and the surface 
glazed, then outlined in a pattern or name, with 
melted lard and a pastry tube. The elaborate 
effects of foreign cooks are made by such simple 
means. To lard fish or meat with strips of pork, 
first sear the surface over the fire, that tightens 
the skin and makes it easier to draw the needle 
through. Freeze pie-crust before baking it, to 
make it light, and paint the tops of pies with yolk 
of egg to make them brown and shiny. When 
serving baked apples, or stewed dried fruit, a 
spoonful of sherry is added by a French cook, to 
improve the taste of the juice. To produce a soft 
tender crust on bread or cake, they rub the sur- 
face, before baking, with melted butter, and they 

248 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

make rolls look flaky by painting the outside 
with white of egg. To make a crisp crust on a 
cake, they add a spoonful of ice water to the dough 
or dust the top with sugar before baking, and 
they rarely cook a cake without lining the tin with 
oiled paper, to keep the temperature even. They 
gash the top of cakes, made with yeast, with a 
knife, to let out the steam, and they put a mixture 
of sugar and water on the top of these latter 
kind, to make them brown and tempting when 
done. They never use the fingers to pinch the 
edge of pies, for they know that the heat of the 
hand keeps the paste from rising. 

Thus it will be seen that the little extra trouble 
taken will be worth while, and nothing is without 
use. 

A RUSSIAN DINNER. 

First, serve Zadzouski^ and Champagne. Caviare. 
Sandwiches. Cold Tongue and Salt Herring. 
Tchi. Coulibac. Punski. Braised Venison. 
Meat and Vegetable Salad. Baba Pudding, Brandy 
Sauce. Black Coffee and Russian Tea. 

GREEK EASTER FEAST. (Poland, Roumania, Russia, 
and Greece.) 

Cottage Cheese in form of a Cross. Roast 
Sucking Pig or Young Lamb. Hard-boiled Eggs, 
marked with a Cross. New Honey. Unleavened 

249 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

Bread. Jellied Fish, in Cross-shaped Mould. 
Dolmas. Callalou. Stuffed Cucumbers, Lemon 
Sauce. Tcheureks. Roseleaf Jam. Black Coffee. 

FRENCH PICNIC LUNCHEON. 

Lobster and Oyster-plant Mousse. Sweet and 
savory Sandwiches. Galantine of Turkey. Peri- 
gord Pie. Almond Cakes. Strawberries in Punch, 
of Iced Sweet Wines. Claret. 

SCOTCH SUPPER. 

Whiskey Punch. Ale. Mackerel Pie. How- 
towdie. Haggis. Hot Scones, buttered. Hot 
Pint. Lemon Posset. Orange Marmalade. 

ENGLISH GARDEN PARTY. 

Veal and Ham Pie. Chicken Salad. Sand- 
wiches. Wafers. Gooseberry Fool. Syllabub. 
Richmond Maids of Honor. Fruit Ices. Re- 
gent's Punch. Institution Cup. Claret Cup. 

OLD ENGLISH SUPPER. 

Kidney and Oyster Pudding. Jugged Hare. 
Lancastershire Medley. Frumenty. Salmagundi. 
King Henry's Shoe Strings. Damson Cheese. 
Rhubarb Wine. Grandfather's Nightcap. Stil- 
ton Cheese. 

250 



With a Saucepan over the Sea 

GERMAN KAFFEE KLATCH. (Coffee Party, — Ladies' 
Sewing Circle.) 

Oysters In Cream. Potato Salad. Nuremberg 
Gingerbread. Apfel Strudel. Konglauffe. March- 
pane. Coffee with Whipped Cream. Vienna 
Chocolate. 

A TROUBADOUR DINNER IN OLD PROVENCE. 

(Arrange the table with garlands of laurel, in- 
terwoven with violets and roses, in clusters. Have 
no cloth. Use old-fashioned china or silver.) 

Cream of Cheese Soup, in yellow bowls. Bouil- 
labaisse, in earthen dish. Amourettes. Roast 
Goose, Arlesian style. Cassoulic, with Mush- 
rooms. Egg-plant, Tomato Sauce. Endive Salad, 
Gascony style. Fresh Cheese. Batons de Jakob. 
Sweet Cannelons. Rhubarb and Orange Jam. 
Coffee. Claret. 



251 









INDEX 



INDEX 






Ale flip (England), 233 
Almond delight (Hungary), 180 
Alpine baskets, 185 
Amourettes (old French and 

Roman), 87 
Andouillettes (Nancy), loi 
Angelica, candied (France), 224 
Angels on horseback. (England), 

no 
Annastich (German-Jewish), 130 
-Apfel strudel (Germany), 164 
Apples, baked (England), 190 
<' compote of (Cherbourg), 

189 
" en casserole (Provincial 
France), 189 
Apple balls (Germany), 190 
" flawn (England), 206 
" turnovers (England), 207 
Artichokes (as cooked in Lyons), 

141 
Asparagus (France), 132 

" (Spain), 132 
Athole brose (England), 230 

Bacalao (Spain), 81 

Batons de Jakob (Marseilles), 167 

Beans, haricot (Burgundy), 149 
" string (Brittany), 133 
" white (Brittany), 133 

Beef, boiled (Hungary), 113 
" braised (England), 112 
*' " (Marseilles), in 



Beef, croquettes (Italy), 109 
' ' fillet of, mignonne (Paris), 7 1 
" hash (Russia), 109 
" pilaff of (Barcelona), in 
" stew (Poland), 112 
Bills of fare, 249 
Biscuits, Rheims, 206 
" Russian, 207 
Bishop, Oxford, 230 
Bitters for cocktails (England), 

229 
Bonbons, lemon and maraschino 

(Italy), 223 
Bouillabaisse (Marseilles), 37 
Bourride (Marseilles), 39 
Brandade (Montpellier), 39 
Brandy, orange (England), 235 
Brioches (France), 166 
Brown B'etty (Oxford), 228 
Broth, fish (Sweden), 14 — — — 
" Greek, 28 

** Lenten (French and Aus- 
trian convents), 13 
" onion (Dieppe), 22 
" pectoral (convent recipe), 7 
" pigeon (Boulogne), 13 
" real (Germany), 18 ,, ^. . 
Buns, Bath, 171 
" Endcliffe, 172 
" Geneva, 172 
" hot cross (England), 171 
" sheep-shearing (England"), 
171 



255 



Index 



Buns, Suffolk, 172 
Buonbocconi (Genoa), 82 
Burdwain, Indian (England), 143 
Butter, Montpelller, 57 

Cabbage (Normandy and Flan- 
ders), 141 
" (Provence), 140 
Cake, Genoa, 169 

" plum (England), 170 
" poor man's (England), 1 60 
" Queen Charlotte's (Eng- 
land), 158 
" Roumanian, 168 
" Russian, 168 
" Twelfth Night (England), 
170 
Cakes, almond (Pithiviers), 161 
" honey (Basle), 161 
" lemon, or " King Henry's 
shoe strings," Nos. i 
and 2, 157 
*< love (German-Moravian), 

205 
" Manx, 161 
" Normandy short, 162 
" <' spice, 162 

" Parkin (England), 158 
" parsnip (England), 158 
<* Scotch, 160 
" Shrewsbury, 159 
" supper (Germany), 163 
*< Westphalian butter, 162 
^ " Xmas (Germany), 169 

" Yorkshire tea, 173 
Caramel, 58 
Candy, Sienna, 225 



Cannelons, sweet (Marseilles), 167 
Capillaire (Paris), 234 
Capon, Xmas (France), 40 
Carp (Coblentz), 40 " ' 
" Xmas (Poland), 38 
Carrots and asparagus (Alsace- 
Lorraine), 149 
" (Lille), 138 
Cassolette (Provence), 100 
Cassoulic (Languedoc), loi 
CcLuUhoweT, au gratin (Italy), 136 

" fritters (Italy), 136 

Celery (Italy), 135 
Champagne, gooseberry (Eng- 
land), 236 
Chicken, boiled (Henry 4th re- 
cipe), 71 
cannelons of (Marseilles), 

77 
cannelons No. 2 (Mar- 
seilles), 77 
a la Creci, 75 
cream of (French con- 
vent recipe), 80 
croquettes (Paris), 109 
cutlets (Provence), 76 
fried (Florence), 75 
fried (Spain and Portu- 
gal), 74 
fried (Vienna), 74 
en matelote (France), 76 
cutlets, invented for 

kings (France), 76 
a la Marengo, 73 
(Monte Carlo), 73 
roast (Paris), 73 
royal (France), 72 



256 



Index 



Chicken stew (Germany), 79 
" " (Hungary), 75 

Chipolata (Spain), 58 
Christmas bowl (England), 231 
Cheese, damson (England), 215 
Cherries and currants in syrup, 

(Bar-le-Duc), 215 
Chestnuts, vermicelli (Italy), 179 
Chocolate, Vienna, 183 
Chops (Monte Carlo), 84 
<' braised (Poland), 91 
*< lamb (Madame de Main- 
tenon), 92 
" mutton, baked (Italy), 90 
« « (Southern France), 

91 
Claret and strawberries (France), 

183 
Cockaleekie (Scotland), i 
Cod, salt (Coast of Spain), 52 
Consomme, Colbert (France), 6 

" Rachel (Paris), 15 

Cordial, blackberry (England), 
23s 
« < nonpareil (France), 238 
" quince (Germany), 

238 
Coulibac (Russia), 82 
Crabs (Marseilles), 34 

<« and tomatoes (Provence), 

49 
" style of St. Lawrence 
(France), 49 
Cream, apple (France), 189 
" apricot (France), 187 
<' of celery (Paris), 24 
«« Holstein, 185 
17 



Cream, honeycomb (Switzer- 
land), 185 
" leche (French convent re- 
cipe), 183 
" of lettuce (France), 26 
<c " rice (Paris), 23 
" pineapple (France), 185 
" of shrimps (Nice), 5 
" " " (Paris), 5 
" " tea (Paris), 188 
" strawberry Bavarian, 184 
" vanilla " 184 

Creme ferneuse (Paris), 16 
Croquettes, beef (Italy), 109 

" rice and apricot, 188 

" salmon (Sweden), 45 

Crowdie (Scotland), 102 
Crumpets (England), 173 
Cucumbers, stuffed (Greece and 

Turkey), 139 
Cullis, family (England), 142 
Cup, caudle (England), 231 
" champagne (England), 228 
" Institution (England), 227 
" Oxford grace (England), 
227 
Curagoa (France), 238 
Curry (Indian, of fowl), 142 
" of sweetbreads (England), 

M3 
Custard, apricot (Vienna), 187 
Custards, coffee (France), 188 
Cutlets, chicken (France), 76 
" mutton (Prague), 84 
" (Normandy), 194 
" shrimp (Vaucluse), 33 
" veal (Metz), 90 



Index 



f 



Cutlets, veal (Vienna), 85 
" veal (Venice), 90 
" (Winchester), no 

De'licieuses (Paris), 165 
Delight, almond (Hungary), 180 
Delights, Turkish, 221 
Diamonds, citron (Turkey), 222 
Dolmas (Turkey), 82 
Duck, ragout of (Ireland), 107 

Eels, collared (Germany), 51 
" pie (Richmond), 48 
" ragout of (Normandy), 52 

Eggs (Carmelite convent recipe), 

63 
a la Gruyere, 63 
fried (Alsace-Lorrain), 64 

" (Marseille's >,.6 1 
(Lyons), 64 """^-^ 

(Malta), 62 
(Nuremberg), 64 
(Piedmont), 62 
poached (Normandy), 61 
(Scotland), 64 
(Sienna), 62 

(Turkey and Roumania), 63 
Eggplant, fried (Naples), 139 
" (Provence), 138 
" stuffed (Turkey), 139 
Epigrammes of lamb (France), 92 

Fadges (Ireland), 197 
Fanchonette (France), 204 
Feet, pigs' (St. Menehould), 102 
Findon haddie savory (Scotland), 

42 



Flawn, apple (England), 206 
Fleisch, minuten (Germany), 94 . 
Fish, broiled (Normandy), 41 
" cutlets, forcemeat for, 52 
" matelote of (Normandy), 39 
" pies (France and England), 

44 
" salad (the Tyrol), 43 
" recipeforfrying(England), 60 
" " " " (German-Jew- 
ish), 60 
" recipe for frying (Newhaven), 

48 
" Xmas Eve (Russia), 38 
Fondue (Switzerland), 63 
Fool gooseberry (England), 187 
Frangipane (Italy), 175 
Fricandeau of veal, 92 ... 

Fritters of four nations, 198 
" French, 198 

" Mi-careme (Rome), 199 
" Spanish, i99,^*«»»'^ 
" Vienna, 198 
Frumenty (Lincolnshire), 181 
" (Devonshire), 180 

Galettes (France), 204 
Game, saline of (Scotland), 114 

" souffle of (Germany), 113 
Garbure (Spain), 94 '"■■*• 
Gaspacho (Spain), 81 
Gateau de riz (France), 174 

" St. Honore (France), 167 
Gaufres (France), 193 
Gimblettes (France), 205 
Gingerbread (Nuremberg), 163 



258 



Index 



Gnocchi (Italy), 146 

Goose liver Klosse (Germany), 
114 
<' roast (Aries), 70 
" «« (England), 70 
" liver (England), 70 

Goulasch (Hungary), 94 

Grandfather's nightcap (Eng- 
land), 2zS 

Green coloring, 59 

Grenadines of veal (Germany), 93 

Haggis, English, 47 
Ham, essence of (England), 57 
Hare, civet of (England), 116 
" jugged (England), 115 
** " No. 2 (Yorkshire), 

"5 
Hash, beef (Russia), 109 
Head cheese (Nancy), 114 
Heart, baked calf's (England), 98 
Hermits (England), 160 
Hints and secrets, 239 
'"^Hobelspane (Germany), 169 
Hodge-podge (England), 103 
Hot-pint (Scotland), 223 
Hot-pot (Lancashire), 96 
Howtowdie (Scotland), 103 

Ice Cream, Florentine, 212 
" gingc"" (England), 213 
Iced pudding, nut (France), 212 
" << raisin (France), 213 

^.Imperials (Germany), 195 
• Imperial Schmarn (Germany), 

19s 
Indian puffs (England), 34 



Jam, apple and quince (Eng- 
land), 216 
apricot (England), 218 
combinations (Provincial 

France), 214 
gooseberry (England), 218 
" and currant (Eng- 

land), 217 
greengage (England), 218 
lemon (England), 217 
lemon and rhubarb (Eng- 
land), 216 
rhubarb and orange, 217 
roseleaf (Greece), 221 
Jelly, cider (England), 175 
claret (England), 183 
of greengages (England), 

186 
maraschino (France), 186 
rose (England), 214 
Juditha (Polish Jews), 214 
Junket (Devonshire), 181 

Kedgeree (England), 103 
Kidney and mushrooms (France), 
80 
" and oyster pudding Eng- 
land), 80 
« stew (Baden-Baden), 84 „., 
" " (France), 105 
Kirsch (Germany), 238 
Konglauffe (Germany), 194 

Lamb, braised (Normandy), 67 
" epigrammes of (France), 92 
" minced (Southern France), 
108 



259 



Index 



t 



Lamb, ragout of (Germany), io6 
" " and ravioli (Italy), 

io6 
'* roast (Brittany), 67 
Lamb's wool (England), 232 
Lancashire hot-pot (England), 96 
Lawn sleeve (England), 229 
Leche Cream (convent recipe), 

Leicestershire medley, 96 
Liver, braised calf's (Italy), loS 
Lobster, a la Careme (France), 37 
Lobster, en casserole (S, France), 

35 
" mariner's style, 36 
'< omelette (Paris), 35 
•' and oyster plant mousse 

(Paris), 36 
" souffle of (Nice), 34 
" St. Stephan, 36 
Lozenges, currant (England), 224 



Macaroni (Bologna), 144 
" (Genoa), 144 

** (Palermo), 145 

** a la Pontiffe, 145 

*' pheasant and (Italy), 

146 

Macedoine in aspic (Normandy), 

83 
Mackerel baked in cream (Aus- 
tria), 40 
** (Germany), 41 
" pickled (Germany), 41 
** pie (Scotland), 45 
«' (the Tyrol), 47 
Madeleines (Paris), 164 

260 



Maids of honor (Richmond), 

157 
Marchpane (Germany), 224 ~"f 
Marmalade orange (Scotland), 

219 
Marrons glacees (Paris), 223 » 
May nectar (Germany), 233 — <f— 
Mead (Old English and German), 

234 
Medley, Leicestershire, 96 
Metheglin (old English and Ger- 
man), 229 
Meringues (Paris), 186 
Minestrone (Italy), 96 
Mushrooms and cream (N. 
France), 148 
" (Provence), 137 

" fried (Provence), 136 

" and eggs (Hungary), 

137 
*' on toast (France), 

136 
*' puree of (Paris), 137 

Mutton chops, baked (Italy), 90 
" " (S. France), 91 
" cutlets (Prague), 84 
" kebobbed (England), 108 
" Oxford John (England), 

98 
** roast leg of (Gascony), 

68 
" little turnovers of (Tur- 
key), 86 



Napoleons (Paris), 185 
Noodles, Baden, 148 
" German, 200 



Index 



Nougat almond (Montelimert), 

Noyeau (France), 237 

Onions, boiled (France), 140 
_jii-~ *< stuffed (Germany), 140 

/ Olio, Spanish, 86 

«5^*«" Omelette crumb (Germany), 66 
J " French, 65 

*« Spanish, 65 
" sweet souffle (Germany), 

193 
" celestine (France), 191 
" " small (France), 

192 
** with cordial, 192 
" fancy French, 192 
*' rum (Paris), 193 
Oranges, compote of (France), 
191 
" frozen (France), 213 
i' Orgeat (France), 237 

^"^ Oysters in cream (Germany), 49 
♦* " forcemeat, 50 
'* fried (Holstein), 45 
" panned (France), 53 

(ft"* Pancakes, cream (Paris), 196 

" " or Swiss roll, 

196 
" currant (England), 197 
** macaroon (France), 196 
" with marrons, 196 
Partridges with cabbage (France), 

114 
Pate de foies gras, imitation 
(France), 127 

26 



Pears (Rouraania), 190 
Peas, green (France), 131 

lettuce and (Provincial 

France), 131 
porridge (England), 132 
puree of (France), 131 
Pepper-pot, 12 
Petite marmite (France), i 
Pie, apple (French), 208 
" (Florentine), 208 
*' (Saxony), 208 "r^'- 
pineapple (England), 209' 
quince (Spain), 209 
beefsteak (England), 120 
Burgundy, 123 
chicken (England), 128 

" (France), 129 
cod and oyster (England), 52 
duck (Chartres), 126 
eel (Richmond), 48 
Fife (Scotland), 125 
fish (France and England), 44 / 
goose (Strasburg), 127 '«^fe**» 
humble (England), 129 ' 
lark (Pithiviers), 125 
mackerel (Scotland), 45 
Normandy, 122 
Perigord, 124 
pigeon (England), 119 
rabbit (Saxony), 128 
Roman, 124 

Star-gazy (Cornwall), 41 
Toulouse, 123 
turkey (Amiens), 126 
veal liver (Germany), 121 . 
' ' and ham (Melton Mow- 
bray), 120 



Index 



Pie and ham, No. 2, 121 
Pigs' harslet (England), 118 
Pig roast (England), 70 
Pilau, Indian, 143 
Poerkoell (Hungary), 95 

rPork, roast loin of (Germany), 
69 
Posset, lemon (England), 232 
" sack (Sir W. Raleigh's re- 
cipe), 232 
" " No. 2, 232 
Potage, Belle Fontaine (Paris), 1 7 
" St. Germain (France), 25 
" Reunion " 16 

" Jacqueline (Paris), 16 
Potatoes, cakes of (France), 148 
'* (Flanders), 134 
" (Mantua), 134 
" Souffle (Germany), 148 
« Trappist convent recipe 
for, 134 
Pottage, Jacobins (France), 97 
Praline (France), 213 
Preserves, Almack's (England), 
219 
*' German method for, 213 
Profiterolles (Paris), 207 
Puchero (Spain), 29 and 95 
Pudding, almond (Buda-Pesth), 
179 
" Bakewell (Derbyshire), 

176 
" chestnut (France), 179 
" Easter (England), 177 
" iced nut (France), 212 
" " raisin " 213 

" Ingoldsby (Xmas), 177 



Pudding, plum (England), 178 
" Pompadour (France), 

174 
rice (Nancy), 174 
tansy (England), 176 
Ventnor, 1 1 1 
Victoria (England), 180 
Yorkshire, 178 
Punch, George 4th's, 226 
" Heidelberg, 226^ 
" pony (England), 227 
" regent's *' 226 

" Roman, 230 
Punski (Russia), 95 
Puree of broad beans (Brittany}, 
24 
" " string " (Italy), 25 
" Jackson (Paris), 21 
" of peas (France), 131 

Quails, braised (Paris), 83 

Rabbit, aspic of (Austria), 117 

" cake (Germany), 116 

" mock " no 

*< (Venice), 116 

Raisinee de Bourgogne (France), 

214 
Raspberries and currants (Bar-le- 

uc), 216 ;;-''• 
Ravioli (Italy), 147 

" No. 2 (Italy), 147 
Rice and apples, compote of (N. 
France), 191 
'< (Andalusia), 141 
<* border of (Toulouse), 142 
" Carmelite convent style, 142 



262 



Index 



Rice-milk (Sweden), 177 

Rod gruid (Sweden and Norway), 

Roly-poly (England), 182 ^ 
Rolls, French, 210 

" Manheim, 209 

" Swiss, 210 

•' Vienna, 210 

Sabaglione (France), 174 
Salad, Alexandre Dumas' recipe, 

153 
N <* asparagus and shrimps (Ger- 
many), 155 
" of Brussels sprouts, 157 
" chicken (England), 153 
" fish and onion (Nantes), 150 
" Francillon (Pa-ris), 154 
** Gascony, 150 
" lettuce (Normandy), 150 
" onion and pepper (Paris), 

154 
♦* Russian, 151 
" " No. 2 (without meat), 

152 
" salmon (Norway), 152 
" Swedish, 151 
" sweetbread (Austria), 152 
Salmagundi (England), 154 
Salmon croquettes (Sweden), 45 
" (Provincial France), 46 
" (along the Rhine), 46 
Sandwiches, Aberdeen, 155 
" French cheese, 156 
*' " savory, 156 

*' " sweet, 156 

" salmon (England), 155 



Sauce, Bechamel (France), 54 

" cherry (Germany), 56 • r* 

" for croquettes or fish, 53 

" Dutch, 53 

" garlic (Provence), 56 

" gooseberry (England), 56 

«' Orange, 56 

" Prince of Wales, 55 

" tartare, 55 

" tomato, 54 

<' Valencia, 54 ^-r^^' ' 
Sauer-braten (Germany), 85 
Sauer kraut " 149 

Savarin (Paris), 165 
Scallops (Brest fashion), 50 
Seasoning, French aromatic, 59 

" " " No. 2, 59 

Shad, baked (France), 42 

" roe (N. " 47 
Shrimps, Bordelaise, 33 

" cutlets (Vaucluse), 33 

" (Nancy), 36 

" St. Jacques (Trouville), 

33 
Sling gin (England), 230 
Smelts (Dresden style), 51 
Snaps, brandy (England), 160 
Sole (Normandy), 43 

" turban of (Paris), 47 
Soup, eel (Hamburg), 9 
" egg (Monte Carlo), 3 
" endive (Alsace-Lorraine), 

26 
" frog (Normandy), 8 
" game, clear (Poland), la 
" giblet (England), 9 
" " (France), 9 



"h' 



263 



Index 



Soup, hare (Poland), 






ar~'*i\- 



Hungarian, 30 

Italian, 1 7 

leek (France), 17 

lemon (France), 25 

lentil (Bavaria), 27 

liver (Poland), 8 

lobster. Mulligatawny (Eng- 
land), 13 
" (London), 5 
" (Nantes), 6 
" (Paris), 4 

Manheim, 30 

onion with cheese (Italy), 19 

apple (Germany), 31 
Battenberg (Windsor Cas- 
tle), 1 1 

black bean (Spain), 24 

bonne femme (Provincial 
France), 6 

cabbage (Sicily), 28 

calfs head (Richmond), 11 

chicken (Nice), 4 

cod (Brittany), 23 

cheese (Southern France), 21 

cherry (Berlin), 30 

chestnut- (France), 20 
" (Italy), 20 

chocolate " 32 

cream of barley (Vienna), 1 7 
" *' celery (Paris), 24 
" " lettuce (France), 26 
" " rice (Paris), 23 
" " shrimps (Nice), 5 
" «' " (Paris), 5 

Crecy (Flanders), 15 

cucumber (Greece), 21 

264 



Soup, oyster (France), 21 
" oxcheek CEngland"), : 



oxcheek (England), 10 
" oxtail " 10 

" pigeon (Belgium), 7 
" potatoes (Geneva), 22 
" " (Normandy), 22 

" Prussian, 28 - ' 
" queen, 3 

" regent's (England), 11 
" sorrel (Provincial France), 26 
" strawberry (Germany), 31 
" tomato (Germany), 19 
" turkey (Rouen), 14 
" turnip " 18 

" " (Italy), 23 
" Tuscany, 27 
" vegetable (France), 14 
" '< marrow (England), 27 
" wine (Germany), 31 «^n>*: 
Spaghetti (all over Italy), 1*44 

" (Amalfi), 145 
Spatzen (Germany), 173 ■ 
Spinach (France and Germany), 

133 
Steak, broiled (English chophouse 

recipe), 1 1 
Stew, bachelor's (England), 98 

" Scotch, 107 
Sugar apple (Germany) 224 
" barley (England), 223 
Sweetbreads, broiled (Paris), 88 
<' cutlets (Montpellier), 

189 
" croquettes (Paris), 1 89 

" (Dauphiny), 87 

" financiere (Paris), 87 

" (Modena), 88 



Index 



Sweetbreads, (Italy), 88 

*' stewed (England), 89 
Syllabub, London, 182 

Tart, angelica and apple 
(France), 203 

" apple (Westphalian), 203 

" chicken (France), 129 

" king's (Germany), 202 

" Vienna, 202 
Tarts, Banbury (England), 200 

'< Bavarian, 201 

" gooseberry (England), 202 

" Italian, 201 

" Rouen, 200 
*- *' Vienna, 201 
Tcheureks (Greece), 168 
Tchi (Russia), 14 
Tea, cream of (Paris), 188 
Tidbits, queen's (France), 83 
Timbales, apple (Milan), 206 
Tomatoes, baked (Florence), 

135 
« (Sicily), 13s 
Tongue, beef (Alsace-Lorraine), 
103 
** " (France), 104 

" " (Italy), 104 

Trifle, English, 182 
Tripe (^ la mode de Caen), 99 

" (Lyons), 100 
Trout (Geneva), 42 

" (Provincial France) 50 
Turkey, galantine of (Montpel- 
lier), 79 



Turkey, Marquise (Paris), 74 
Turkey soup (Rouen), 14 
Tutti-frutti (Italy), 220 

Usquebaugh, Irish, 237 

Veal, breast of (Germany), 69 
" cream of (Germany), 94 
" cutlets (Metz), 90 
" " (Vienna), 90 
" " (Venice), 93 
" fricandeau of (Jean Ca- 

reme), 92 
" grenadines of (France),, 93^ 
" and mushrooms (Germany), 

93 
" roast (Italy), 68 
Vegetable marrow (Austria), 139 
Venison (hunter's recipe for), 118 

** (Roumania), 117 
Vinegar tarragon, 60 

" violet (Germany), 239 

Wafers (Provincial France), 204 

" English, 194 
Waffles, Danish, 195 
Wassail (England), 231 
White pot, Devonshire, 181 
Wine currant (England), 236 
'■^ damson " 236 

<' marigold " 229 

" mulled " 233 

*' orange " 235 

" rhubarb " 235 

Wonders (Isle of Jersey), 205 



l^.■lM■^*>»^f^?(*^«eft'J- 



-h 



265 



Pfbrks on Cookery 



MRS. LINCOLN'S COOK BOOK 

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